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Paint protectant

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by Jakeesenwein, Oct 14, 2024.

  1. Oct 14, 2024 at 4:00 AM
    #1
    Jakeesenwein

    Jakeesenwein [OP] New Member

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    I am picking up my very first Tundra this Saturday and have questions on paint protectant. The truck is a black Limited and I live in Pennsylvania where our winters aren't as harsh as some areas but the stuff they put on the roads will destroy your vehicle quick. Does anyone have any real life experience with ceramic or graphene coatings? Should I just wax it and go from there?
     
  2. Oct 14, 2024 at 11:12 AM
    #2
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Owner, CTO and executive chairman of X Staff Member

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    A true ceramic coating will assist with water and material not bonding to ur paint. If you need help with this process, please let me know. I've done several vehicles.
     
  3. Oct 14, 2024 at 11:19 AM
    #3
    Jakeesenwein

    Jakeesenwein [OP] New Member

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    Do you have a suggested brand or specific product? Or do you suggest I have it professionally done? I am able to do this type of thing but I also understand some things are better left to the professionals
     
  4. Oct 14, 2024 at 12:16 PM
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    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Owner, CTO and executive chairman of X Staff Member

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    Are you comfortable with the process? If its brand new, you can probably get away with a one step polish after decon. If not, I would compound, review it under light, and then polish it (after decon, of course). If you are not comfortable with the paint correction process, and want to learn - watch some YT videos, and practice on a shitbox car, or purchase a door, hood, etc from a junkyard to practice on...


    Personally, I am a fan of Adams Polishes. Local company, great customer services, always has sales, and put out a ton of videos to share the knowledge.
     
  5. Oct 14, 2024 at 4:02 PM
    #5
    Jakeesenwein

    Jakeesenwein [OP] New Member

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    Truck is brand new. I have read the directions and watched a few videos. I believe that I am comfortable with the process. I believe that the main points are to make sure the body is clean and do not let the compound sit too long. I think my biggest concern is my patience. :blahblah:
     
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  6. Oct 17, 2024 at 10:36 AM
    #6
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    Understand that Toyota clearcoat is two things....soft and thin. You do not have a ton of it to work with. As was suggested to you......a one step using a polish/compound hybrid (like 3D One), or even a straight polish, is likely all you will need. Do a test spot, in an inconspicuous area to see if your product/pad combo will give you the results you are looking for.

    I'd not take a straight compound to a modern vehicle without a paint thickness gauge
     
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  7. Oct 17, 2024 at 10:57 AM
    #7
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Owner, CTO and executive chairman of X Staff Member

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    This, and please do not do it in the sun as you run a higher risk of burning the paint.
    PS - Toyota carpet sucks...so keep that as clean as you can and limit fur from getting inside.
     
  8. Oct 17, 2024 at 11:01 AM
    #8
    eddiefromcali

    eddiefromcali New Member

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    You could aso just skip the polishing and just use a panel prep soap and clay bar it. You wont have the shiniest truck, but the surface will be prepped for the coating. I wouldnt invest in polishing if I didnt have a solid wash/maintenance plan in place as all that work could be ruined with bad wash techniques
     
  9. Oct 17, 2024 at 11:46 AM
    #9
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Owner, CTO and executive chairman of X Staff Member

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    But that won’t help repel. It will only help remove current containments on the paint. If using medium grade clay, it may mar vs a light grade, such as claymit will not
     
  10. Oct 17, 2024 at 11:51 AM
    #10
    eddiefromcali

    eddiefromcali New Member

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    what? he would still ceramic coat after the clay/prep wash like I mentioned.
     
  11. Oct 17, 2024 at 12:03 PM
    #11
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Owner, CTO and executive chairman of X Staff Member

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    Ah I thought u mentioned not doing that part
     
  12. Oct 17, 2024 at 12:13 PM
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    eddiefromcali

    eddiefromcali New Member

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    no, just saying he could skip the polishing and just clay/panel prep wash and then coat it. I do agree that the wrong/aggressive bar could cause damage
     
  13. Oct 17, 2024 at 1:09 PM
    #13
    akira

    akira 25 Tundra Limited TRD OffRoad

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  14. Oct 18, 2024 at 6:08 AM
    #14
    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    There's some debate over whether or not you need to polish after claying a vehicle. I've done a bunch of wash/clay/seal type details....but those vehicles were already hammered......and needed a full correction....none of those folks had the budget for that. On a newer vehicle, especially a black one, I'd highly recommend a polish following a clay bar.....even if it's just a finishing polish.

    Just my .02
     
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  15. Oct 18, 2024 at 10:03 AM
    #15
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Owner, CTO and executive chairman of X Staff Member

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    Ive seen some that skip clay, and just do paint correction.
     
  16. Oct 23, 2024 at 6:42 AM
    #16
    War Machine

    War Machine SSEM # 5 3MW

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    If it’s brand new, I’d use IronX followed with a fine grade clay mitt instead of polishing. Then use a IPA like Carpro Eraser to clean off any residue from the paint. That’s going to decon the paint so your sealant of choice will bond properly.
    I’ve personally never gotten any marring from a clay mitt and I’ve done it dozens of times over the years.
    As for final paint protection, I have my favorites but have zero experience with road salt. I honestly don’t know what would hold up the best against it. I’d assume that short of a very expensive PPF, a ceramic would be your best bet. I don’t think the stuff I use would hold up to that at all.
    These guys who live up north will have a better idea of how well a ceramic holds up to road salt.
     

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