Keep or Sell 2007 Tundra

Hey all, first time posting here and hoping to get some good advice/feedback.

Last year I purchased a 2007 5.7L 4WD SR5 Tundra for $9k and it's been a hassle on and off since owning it. The previous owner, who bought it from his aunt, didn't really take care of the truck throughout it's life and I think it's starting to show (even though I was told the maintenance schedule was followed but hey, sucker born every day?).
To date, I've:
- Replaced the parking brake cable, lever assembly, etc.
- Replaced the tires, brake rotors, pads, etc.
- Replaced the front brake calipers and brake lines
- Replaced the front wheel bearing assemblies
- Replaced the front knuckles (outer tie rods rust welded inside)
- Replaced the inner and outer tie rods for both sides
- Replaced the front and rear wheel speed sensors
- Replaced the rear axle bearing assemblies
- Replaced the steering wheel clock spring assembly (twice)
- Replaced the cruise control lever
- Replaced the low pressure power steering hose (burst while on a trip with GF to New Hampshire, grr)
- Replaced the oil pan (someone had cross-threaded the drain plug and hulk-hogan'd it back on)
- Replaced the transmission pan and gasket (had a gasket leak, ended up helicoil-ing 6 of the 12 bolts in the transmission housing)
- Replaced the lower steering shaft
- Replaced the water pump (gasket was leaking)
- Replaced a serpentine belt pulley (while I had the fan and water pump out)
- Replaced the front differential breather tubes
- Replaced the front differential driver's side needle bearing with a ECGS clamshell bushing
- Replaced both CV axles
- Replaced propeller shaft
- Replaced weather stripping around windows
- Replaced antenna bezel
- Repaired exhaust leaks (live in a state that tests emissions)
- Changed coolant, transmission, front and rear differential (twice), and transfer case fluids
- Changed oil and filter
- Changed cabin and engine air filters

I've made some upgrades too, like headlights, taillights, stereo head unit, back-up camera, front and rear dash cameras, added a Tonneau cover, but the majority of the work has been getting this truck to be in the best shape possible. What drove me to buy this truck was the fact that so many have gotten past 500k miles, and a few even hit 1M miles. Unfortunately, I didn't check the years as well as I should've, and now that a weird honking noise (like a goose being choked) is coming out of my engine when I start her up, I started looking into the years I should buy, and which to deny. I figured 2007 (being the first year of the 2nd Gen) might have some issues, but I didn't realize how many "avoid" lists it was on. I'm reading more and more how this year has the possibility of the valve spring breaking and grenading the engine, issues with the transmission, accelerator pedal, timing chain knocking, timing chain actuator issues, etc. and I'm starting to think this wasn't a great buy. It was originally priced for $11k, but I don't think all the work above and all the time spent, along with thinking my engine is going to grenade itself at any second, is worth the squeeze.

I know this is a long post, sorry for the read; just trying to get the background out there to explain my point and come to the ultimate question.

So here it is:
Even given all the work already done in the last year (which after reading, bums me out even more), is it worth keeping this 2007 Tundra knowing that the valve springs, timing actuators, etc, are still an issue? Or do I cut my loses, try to sell this thing for as much as I can, and buy a year that doesn't have so many issues, like a 2009, 2011, 2013, etc.?

Really looking for some solid advice on this, thanks everyone.

VR
Dave

 

your 2007 is just as good as a 2009. Same truck. The honking on startup sounds like maybe SAIS. I wouldn’t cut bait on that truck over the feeling it may fail. Unless you’re mentally just done with it. But then you walk away from the time spent and the upgrades you’ve made.

 

Thanks for the quick reply @KNABORES. What are your thoughts on the valve spring grenading the engine? The truck is 17 years old, thought was if I sell and use the money towards a 2011, I think Toyota fixed the spring issue in that year going forward. But then again, I could just spend the extra money on a valve spring and timing chain actuator replacement? Totally agree on your perspective on walking away from the time spent and upgrades made, just didn't know what else may rear it's ugly head.

 

"thinking my engine is going to grenade itself at any second, is worth the squeeze".

It's hard to keep a truck or any vehicle that you don't 'trust'; which is where it sounds like you are at...

Personally, I wouldn't scrap/sell a truck based on what I think may happen... it's kinda like being in a relationship w/someone that you don't trust and spend all your free time worrying that they are up to no good; it's taxing and non-productive.

Engines are no longer a $3k-$5k repair. So, if it were to happen, the expense would be very significant unless you have the resources and skills to do the swap yourself, but even then donor engines, etc. are prone to ECU compatibility issues during the swap.

You obviously put a lot of time and $$$ into it already. If it were me, I'd drive it till it broke.... Then find someone looking to purchase a 'donor' truck to keep there's going and sell it to them.

Regarding milegage, remember not all miles are created equal. There's a huuuuge difference between a truck that did 500k miles doing Fwy/Hwy long hauls vs. a truck that's at 250k and has logged most of those miles in stop and go traffic, idled for hours at a local drive-thru each week, etc...

 

Do you have a known bad valve spring? Or just worried you might? Pretty rare failure.

 

@Tripleconpanna I think you and @KNABORES are right; just keep the truck and drive it 'til it dies. At this point, spending my time worrying about it really doesn't do anything and just takes the fun out of driving it. What got me asking this question was the expense at replacing the engine if it blows, and figuring I could save myself some $$$ by selling it and getting one that doesn't have the engine issues associated with the '07 and '08. I've been handy enough to successfully replace everything myself, guess I'm tired of putting work into it vice getting a truck that wasn't as abused/in need of repair.

KNABORES, I don't have a known bad valve spring, just worried I might since it was one of the topics brought up against the '07. If it's a rare failure, that makes me want to keep the truck more; I just didn't know how rare it was since some forums make it sound like it was a popular and catastrophic fix. I also didn't know how rare the timing chain actuator failure was, and diving into an engine repair was a headache I was trying to avoid. It sounds like both of you are singing the same song to keep the Tundra 'til the end.

 

@dmmcgill I have been in the same boat as you with my 07 (now with 209,000 miles). I did see a vid where Carcarenut mentioned that it is likely that if your 07/08 would have had a bad valve spring, it would have failed already by now. That has given me some hope.

 

@Rph74 I follow The Car Care Nut and that was where I first heard about the valve spring issue, I don't recall that particular one but it definitely gives me hope, thanks for mentioning it (I'll look for it on YouTube now). I think at this point I'm going to keep the Tundra and just go with it. I'm still bummed that the '07 isn't in the top tier and still has these potential issues, but the engine's been fine so far *knock on wood*.

 

I read it all. You did that yourself, essentially. That’s what makes me keep mine is all the work done. This forum and those YouTube guys are here to help us when the inevitable does happen. I don’t mind keeping one eye open about things to be aware of. I don’t like fear mongers and the belief that this one model is gonna have a.b.c etc go wrong.
I’m a bit older. I’ve had 3 1973 cars. If I believed what people say those cars are almost the worst ever made. BS. Best cars I ever had.
Keep the truck, drive it now with pride and keep up the maintenance that it sorely needed but now is virtually mint. My recommend is drive it and under your ownership it could very well be one of those high mileage trucks yet.

 

For what it's worth, my '08 is approaching 300k, and the biggest issue I've had w/it is needing to replace a shift solenoid; well the starter was actually more expensive to replace (but to me that is kinda an expected repair at some point)...

Anyhow, with all the work you've put in, etc... I really think you're in no better place to grab any other truck that's 10 or more years old (I think you were still talking about the older 2nd Gens). There's never any real way to know that a truck has been completely cared for, properly broke in during it's first 1,500 or so miles and not suffered some unknown issue; personally (at least at this time) I wouldn't want to spend 60-70k on a new one right now as there are still kinks to work out... you could do a lot to your truck for a fraction of that cost to freshen it up and keep it going

PS>> We love pics, so consider this a little encouragement to give us a glimpse of your rig...

 

What's the mileage and how rusty is it?

 

@Cruiserpilot good points, I did all the work myself and that does make me want to keep the truck more. You're also right in that I shouldn't just go off lists of other people; I was just getting tired of all the work and seeing the Tundra just sit in the driveway until I fixed one thing, drove it, fixed another thing, etc. It sat for the first 3 months in my driveway after buying it because RI changed registration and safety inspection laws without posting on their website or the DMV employees really knowing what to do. That, compounded with the above, just added to the frustration of owning it. My goal was to get this truck to the 500k mileage mark, so that's been rekindled after reading yours and everyone else's responses. VERY glad I finally joined this forum after reading through the various posts over the last couple years!

@Tripleconpanna that is a huge morale boost seeing that the '08 is so close to the '07, and yours hit 300k! I was looking into the shifter solenoid and the starter since I figured my truck being 17 years old might need it soon; better to get them now while prices continue to go up. As for the newer trucks, the thought did cross my mind but, with the economy right now, I really can't afford the newer $60-70k trucks, which is why I went or the earlier year Tundra. To your point, I think I'm going to keep upgrading this thing which will be way more cost efficient than buying new! As for the pics, I'll slap them in this thread! I just need to take new ones

@Half Assed The truck has minor surface rust but the frame is in great condition. The only PITA has been the rusted-on outer tie rods to the knuckle, which I had to cut off and install new inner/outer tie rods and new knuckles, and all of the brake lines and connectors need to be replaced. The parking brake cable was so rusted that it snapped off and the lever assembly wouldn't turn, and the lower steering shaft u-joint was rusted to h*ll. The previous owner lived by the ocean and the truck just sat for 2 years while he got his family up and running and focused on house issues (so I was told), so it hadn't moved in a while and was subject to the salt water. All things considered, minimal rust compared to how it could've been given the circumstances. As for the mileage, the truck has 158K on it, which is why I was concerned that all these issues came up with such low mileage.

 

Starter in my '08 went out a little over 200k; alternator went out about 20-30k after that.... if you can try to purchase from one of the discount toyota dealers when looking for OE parts. Such as Toyota World, Lewis Toyota, etc... If you look around you'll find dealers like these guys w/OE parts at a good discount already, but several times a year they'll throw in another 25% plus free shipping... OE Rotors under $70 shipped; I believe I paid well under $200 for an OE starter, etc...

 

When you factor in rust, all that other stuff about reliability, mileage, or what year is best goes out the window. I had a low mileage 2010 from NY with 120k on it that was mint on the inside, looked ok on the outside, but underneath it was falling apart. It needed a lot of the same parts you've done to yours. The 2007 i replaced it with had 200k and the interior wasn't as nice, but the chassis was like new still. Didnt need anything except brake pads and a starter. I've since moved on to another 2010 with 270k, which was a former farm truck. It's been used but still in good shape.

I havent had any issues with the 5.7 on any of them. For you it will be everything else that's the problem. A rusty vehicle will forever be a money pit until it ends up at the scrap yard. It's just part of living in the salt belt. You're having to fix things most other people never have to deal with down south. Putting money into it just to keep inspection stickers and limp it along another year. If you are dedicated to owning one, in my opinion i would cut my losses and find a clean one from down south and have it oil sprayed every year. You'll spend more fixing rust in a year than it would cost for a plane ticket to Dallas or Orlando and drive a truck back home.

 

@Tripleconpanna I used to go to a website called Toyotapartsdeal.com but they ripped me off on both the front wheel bearing assemblies and the rear, I'm out about $1500 because they gave some junk excuse to Discover who found in their favor. I've since gone to places like Fred Haas Toyota World (propeller shaft) and actually have been researching which vendors provide the parts to Toyota (Aisin for the water pump, Dana Spicer for the U-Joints, etc). I tried getting OEM parts on eBay but quickly found out that there are copycat Toyota parts out there that break quickly (center driveshaft bearing for instance). I'll definitely look into the starter though (under $200 sounds good to me), currently running PowerStop brake pads and rotors which seem to do the job. Thanks for the advice on the other places to shop as well as the help with the other posts!

@Half Assed The rust is definitely an issue I've been thinking about, and living in the rust belt really has it's share of issues that others don't have to face. I was on Craigslist a few days ago looking for Tundras in the south but couldn't quite find what I was looking for. I thought the same, worth a trip down there and driving it back, and even talked to the GF about taking a vacation to check one out. If the rust keeps persisting, it might be the deciding factor with keeping the truck. Right now, I'm looking to change out all the brake lines and the connectors are so rusted that I have to buy all of them as well. But then again, after those are done and I coat the underside, it could last me a while.

 

As promised, here are some pictures of the ol' gal:

 

That’s a good looking truck. Keep it. You have made some nice cosmetic upgrades that set it apart.
RI. Took me a long time to get there about 4 yrs ago, last on the list of 50 states. I’ve been to them all now. Not bad for an old man Canadian. LOL

 

@Cruiserpilot not bad at all! I'm a born and raised 'merican and I've only been to 20 of the 50 states - guess I have some travelling to do! Thanks for the respects towards my truck, I did put quite a bit into it and added some decals to make it my own over the last year. Tomorrow I'll post some pictures of the underside and some of the rust I'm getting into; that should give everyone a better idea of the potential work ahead of me.

 

Update on the Tundra, now it seems like both the front and rear differentials are starting to go...

I'm losing my mind. The rear differential brand new is $1700, and I'm not sure if I can trust a scrapyard/eBay version. I drained the fluid two more times since I changed out the fluid the first time. I was experiencing slight howling and shuddering, figured I'd see if there were metal shavings - boy was there ever! The magnet on the drain plug looked like I drove 50K miles, when really I drove 1600. 400 miles later, and there's still a lot of deposit on the magnet...either my bearings are about to go, or the ring and pinion are worn out.

As for the front differential, I replaced the driver side needle bearing with an ECGS clamshell bushing, but now there's another bearing-esque sound coming from the front. It could be the passenger side bearing, or the front differential itself. I heard Tundras have issues with the front differential, and I don't have the heart to look up what those cost now.

What do you think all? Keep going? I'm so frustrated with this truck, getting to the point of saying, "screw it", to be honest...

 

Just my $0.02:

Most of those repairs sounded like they were mostly needed due to rust, and a few others were simply catch-up on routine maintenance. Very few were actually failures that point to the truck being unreliable per sae.

All that being said, assuming that rust isn't going to total the truck or create a boatload more needed repairs soon, I'd just drive the truck and enjoy it. The most economical choice would be to get 5-10 years of relatively trouble-free use out of it, because I doubt you could turn a profit selling it at this point.

 

Well, you’ve probably done more to a truck than most of us. So I went back thru it.
Differential work move cautiously. Now all the crap on the drain plug. Can you spread it out on
a piece of paper towel and let it dry. Take a pic. Put a real magnet on it and see how it reacts.

Segway- I’ve got a 2010 RCSB new to me. Factory stereo. CD player actually works. The factory
speakers are cardboard garbage. I also have a real desire to do front and rear cameras. So I’m
curious what you did to yours, which stereo did you use and get it from. Critchfields?
Thanks. I spent over 4 months trying to sell my 2wd Tundra the old way. My buddy put it on
Marketplace and it sold in 4 hrs! Keep the faith, it will work out.

 

Scrapping it or selling it off for a loss out of fear it may break, feels like a poor choice. I get the lack of trust. There is really one question you have to answer for yourself.

The amount of things you've already fixed, tell me you are paying attention to the truck. Would you get rid of something that you know, you've solved almost all of the problems with, because it might have a rare bad condition?

Does the distrust extend that far?

If it does, get rid of it. The peace of mind is worth the few K $. If the distrust doesn't yet exceed the dollars invested in your feeling. Drive it live you stole it. Change her fluids, rinse, repeat. You'll either gain trust, or break her.

I'd drive it until the wheels fell off of it and then sell it parts while saving the cash for the year truck that will make you more comfortable on the reliability.

 

@Red&03Taco I'm hoping the repairs start to subside so I can actually drive it without something else going on; right now there's a higher pitched humming that started in the front differential, even though I just changed out the needle bearing for the ECGS bushing. Wondering if the front diff is about to go, and also having issues with the rear diff (I think). Photos below are from the two fluid changes; first is 1600 miles after I initially changed the fluid after buying the truck, the second is 400 miles after that. $4000 for the front and rear diffs new, and around here there's no mechanic I really trust to do the work so I'll be doing that soon if I choose.

@Cruiserpilot Here are the pictures showing what the rear diff fluid had to offer. Also, I bought a Kenwood Excelon DDX396BT from Crutchfield. I had a similar one that I installed on my Mazda 6 and like the volume knob instead of the push button crap. I also ordered the install kit that Crutchfield offers which comes with a trim plate that shores up the new receiver with the dashboard like factory. Install photos below the fluid change ones. I've been going to Crutchfield for 20 years and they are the only place I will ever buy car electronics. You get the trim plate, wiring harness to convert new to old, and a clear set of instructions along with it. I've also never had an issue with a receiver not fitting my model year, so they clearly do their research. Let me know if you need more help with your install because I've done this dozens of times with my vehicles, family, friends, etc.

@BeauDacious I think I'm getting past the rare valve spring issue at this point; it just figures that after I started feeling good about that, the differential issues struck and now having the humming sound from the front and the prospect of replacing even more. I do keep looking up Tundras to get a gauge for how much they would cost, and it seems like I wouldn't be gaining much from looking at another which might have the same issues, more work, less work, etc. I just wouldn't know. Joke in the family is we're Irish, and Irish luck isn't great; it's either bad luck or no luck at all, which I've experienced for over 30 years. I'm going to hook up my Steelman Chassis-Ear to the various parts to see if I can hone in on the noise and vibrations. Guess I'll let everyone know how that goes lol.

After driving the truck for 1600miles after the first fluid change:



After 400 miles to see if the second fluid change did anything:

 

@Cruiserpilot Here are the receiver pics:

 

Looking at those pics. Almost like the wrong oil was put in. Doesn't look like 'metal' to me. Almost like it's something else.
Hard to tell. Did a separate clean magnet pick anything up in that?

 

Wicked, I will get a hold of you in the not too distant future. What did you do about speakers? I pulled the door speaker off to
replace the door stop and it was the cheapest thing I've ever seen on any car ever.

 

After I installed the receiver, I was going to install new speakers because I agree that they weren't the greatest; the new head units tend to provide clearer output to the speakers so I tried without replacing them, and got a much better sound with the receiver alone. I'll probably upgrade in the future to some matching Kenwood Excelon speakers, if I get around to fixing the truck enough to drive it! Either that, or just install the speakers and turn up the volume .

I did accidentally put 75w-90NS fluid in my rear diff instead of the 75w-85 the first go-around. I mistook the fluid call-out in the manual for the front diff and the transfer case (

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90) as being the same for the rear diff, and unfortunately stumbled across a thread that said the non slip additive didn't do anything and works just as good, and it was at the time what I could find. When I started getting the feeling that things weren't going well, I went to the manual again and saw my mistake with the 75w-85 which is why I switched it out. I didn't think 1600 miles would cause that much crud, and a new magnet did have debris cling to it but didn't really affect the shiny bits in the oil pan? The same could be said for the third fluid change after 400 miles, debris clung to the magnet and there were shiny bits in the pan but those also weren't affected by the magnet. I even used a large neodymium magnet which is in that cardboard box that the drain plug is on.

My thought is that the previous owner(s) never changed out the fluid even though they said it was properly maintained. I was going to do one more fluid change after another 400-500 miles, but now that front end is making noise and vibrations, I really need to hook up my Steelman Chassis-Ear to see if I can figure out what the issue is. Not sure what that gray crap could be besides metal, but definitely open to a brighter-sided explanation lol.

 

I’m not educated enough about gear oils. I’ll send this to my buddy. He’s journeyman HD
instructor. This could be partial why it’s gummed up. Be back.

 

Thanks @Cruiserpilot looking forward to hearing back from ya on what your buddy may think. Crossing my fingers that I was just dumb and followed the wrong advice.

 

@Cruiserpilot did you ever hear from your journeyman HD friend on the fluid? Interested to hear what he thought of it.