P&S Beadmaker Review

I have both for the win!

 

On second thought, you win.

 

I’ve also met Peter Mayhew.

 

That is freakin awesome bro!!!!!!

 

I met Peter griffin.

 

I've got another question for you guys, if I use a clay bar do I have to come back and polish after that (with a DA polisher). Like I said before I'm a little nervous about using a polisher or buffer on my truck or my wife's car. I was thinking of using a claymitt, like wash the truck then use mitt then dry? If I've confused anyone don't feel bad I'm confused as fuck right now.

 

A polishing step is a good idea.....clay bars and mitts can leave some marring. I've skipped that step....but only when working on vehicles that are already hammered. Typically, those customers do not have the budget for a polish anyway.

 

Gotcha, I have some small marks or scuffs which look like maybe a garden hose was rubbed against the truck and my wife's car has a couple too. I might be beating a dead horse here but I just want to make sure I dont mar or affect the paint whilst trying to get rid of those marks. My plan is wash dry then carnauba wax but I think I might have already said that before, thanks for everyone's help and patience on this.

I think I have my answer, it seems that making sure the vehicle is wet or lubricated while using the clay mitt it will be fine and no polishing or buffing needed?

 

More questions guys, in these two pictures I can catch them or snag my fingernail on them. Again I think I know the answer, do I need a clay bar or claymitt or sandpaper like 3000 or 5000 grit to get rid of these. Then follow up with a DA buffer or polisher or possibly something other than a power tool? I'm going to attach some more pictures in the next response but these ar not deep just surface scratches, can I can take care of these with some Mothers Carnauba wax? or will I need clay and polisher etc?
Thanks again for everyone's help

Jack

 

Here are the other pics

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Washed my wife's car and used the IronX with the Rag Company ULTRA Clay decontamination towel, dried and then used Mother's Carnauba wax. Sorry I do not have any pictures, I order the Hydro2 and Beadmaker, as soon as I get them I try her car first then my truck.
Just to clarify, spray the Hydro2 on a wet surface then rinse, do I need to dry it before I apply beadmaker?

 

Seems like a lot of toppers to me. Try HydroBlu when ya run out of hydro2. It really performs well.

 

I’ll look into that one when I run out of the Hydro2, haven’t even used it yet. Still waiting for my beadmaker.
Who makes HydroBlu?

 

Mckees

Hydro2 can be a PIA if it’s hot btw. I also found the product gets tougher to deal with as it gets older. Usually I had to give the vehicle a wipe down with a QD afterwards.

to prevent most of this. Spray it on wash it off! Do not let it sit.

 

Gotcha, the Mothers worked out pretty well and like I said I’m going to try the Hyrdo2 followed up with beadmaker next time I wash her car. Depending on how well I like it I might get some HydroBlu.
I know I said it before but what a wormhole and I very much appreciate all the information and advice.

 

Hydro2 is basically a light ceramic or SiO2 coating. I don’t know how the beadmaker will perform on top of it. Maybe @War Machine has some input.

 

The combo of Hydro2 followed up with beadmaker seems to give it that wet shine. Based on a lot of the comments I thought I’d give it a try.

 

Sounds awesome. Can’t wait to see some pics.

 

I certainly dont excel in that area but when I do it I’ll definitely try to get some good ones and post them.
Beadmaker is supposed to be delivered Monday 07 Oct and as long I don’t get any rain that Friday 11 Oct I’m going to wash my wife’s Volvo. Nice I perfect my method or find a good system that works I’ll get after my Tundra.

 

McKees Hydro Blue is pretty much the same product as Hydro2 but I’ve found it more forgiving, lasts longer, and gives the paint a bit of gloss while Hydro2 does not.
I tried the McKees version long after writing this original post and never updated the OP. Both products are pretty solid, I’d just give McKees an edge these days.
The reason I always layered Hydro2 and Beadmaker is because Beadmaker’s durability is pretty short lived.
Basically the Hydro2 / Hydro Blue is there as an easy to use and reasonably durable paint protection. The Beadmaker was applied on top of that to get a really nice looking and extremely hydrophobic surface. While it doesn’t last as long as other products, I still to this day believe it leaves an extraordinary finish. It’s in a class of its own for hydrophobic properties.
The base layer of Hydro2 was so there’d still be protection when the Beadmaker wore off so it’d still be easy to clean.
Ultimately the protection this method provides isn’t going to last nearly as long as other products do. My reason for recommending it is geared towards ease of use, time to apply, and visual and hydrophobic results. There are other products that provide much longer lasting results, but nothing short of a really great wax is going to look nearly as good in my opinion.
On a side note, when I was using this method I was washing my truck very regularly. It was easy to keep refreshing the Beadmaker somewhat often because I was already washing my truck at least once a week. I’d top it off probably every three weeks or so. It kept the finish fresh and extended the life of the Hydro2.
I’m not nearly as obsessive about it nowadays so I lean towards more durable sealants like Griots 3 in 1.

Lastly, since you already put wax on the vehicle, you may want to give it a couple of weeks to let that wear off some. I’d venture that it will interfere with the Hydro2 bonding to the paint to some degree. Probably not a huge deal but ideally you don’t want anything underneath the sealant.

 

I’d probably use a decon like Purps or IronX to the wash to prep the vehicle before sealant and help breakdown the wax as well.

just a thought

 

I very much prefer Purps from Undrdog the smell is much better

 

I get it and I waxed her car almost 2 weeks ago, figured waiting until 11 Oct might be ok.
I’m definitely looking into the HydroBlu and would like to keep our vehicles washed in a regular basis. Unfortunately once winter gets here I don’t have an indoor space to do that.

 

I used the IronX on her car the last time I washed it, I’ll guve ur the plastic bag check and see if there’s any contaminants before I use the Hydro2 and Beadmaker.
Yes the IronX smells bad, like rotten eggs but it works great.

 

IronX works very well.

 

Being a novice at all of this, what is SiO2?

 

Silicon dioxide, also known as silica or SiO2, is a naturally occurring compound. It's made of silicon and oxygen. Both elements are abundant on our planet. If you've held a rock or touched sand, you've encountered silicon dioxide.


basically it is what makes up the coating part of ceramic. A product like HydroBlu might be 10% where a true coating will be 80-90%

 

Gotcha, what a difference from 35-40 years ago when I would wash with dish soap, dry with an old cotton rag and wax
Very technical now

 

Honestly that dish soap works really well well for a wash before a sealant or wax. Otherwise it will screw whatever protection you had up.