HOWTO: Use the Toyota Parts system to find & order parts

Odd that this site - https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/ - validates the VIN for my 2002 Tundra successfully but does not recognize the VIN for my 2016 Tundra. To avoid data entry error, I copied the VIN directly from my account at the DMV....and confirmed with the title certificate. I see this thread is in the 1st Gen forum...maybe that website is for 1st Gen parts.

Looks like I can search another path, starting with the frame number which I hope is on the mfg label on the door panel (truck is at the shop at the moment). Hopefully the second part of the "complectation" number is also on the label.

Haven't found emission system parts on this site. Will keep digging.

 

On some one-off models, like the custom packages Southeat Toyota released, there are two VINs on the truck.

Always use the VIN on your dash. Don't trust the door sticker. But if you find discrepancies like this, always compare your dash plate to the door sticker VIN to check for inconsistencies between the two. And know some packages (like the X-SP trucks) had TWO VINs.

 

@shifty`, you keep surprising me with your wealth of knowledge about these trucks!

 

That one's a corner-case tidbit I only learned about because of @AV8R4AA's experience over here.

I was bored at work one day, knowing my layoff was imminent (confirmed about 5 weeks later) and started digging on it. In about 30 minutes, I had multiple people confirming there was some additional identifying detail to trucks. @Dakillacore mentioned something about "VIN lock" on certain parts, which is a bit different from other folks online who mentioned SET actually slapped an additional VIN or VIN-like identifier sticker somewhere on the truck that, once they found it, allowed them to finally unlock getting the one-off parts for their truck (mostly fender flares, and a bumper skin or two).

IIRC, I found several cases from forums and social media (Reddit, mostly?) where folks had success contacting folks in both Deerfield Beach and Jacksonville FL to find out where the sticker was located on their truck, and ultimately get the repop parts they needed

I still have yet to see someone actually post what their door sticker (assuming that's where it is) looks like, with the alternate VIN or whatever it is. I've love to get to the bottom of it, with example pics (pic is worth 1,000 words) to help others figure it out. I'm sure the parts stream is limited at this point, but ...

 

Is this still going on? I believe my 2020 VIN matches between the window and the door sticker.

 

Thank you so very much! I'd much rather do this than spend hours on aftermarket parts that may or may not work. At least I'll get my sticker shock first hand. I can't wait to see how much the brake booster that's full of fluid is gonna cost me. Even though, it's still better than spending 60-80k on something new that's not going to last. Thank you for all of your time and advise.

 

So, a little extra to throw at you, and I really should add this content to the original post, maybe I'll edit that today...

If you use the national parts system (https://autoparts.toyota.com) a couple of helpful things to know:

• Every dealer is able to (variably) add their own extra discount onto Toyota's pricing. Some dealers are assholes and stick with MSRP, as if you walked up to the counter off the street. Most of the dealers in my area offer 10-20% off Toyota's listed MSRP, sometimes more.
• Toyota does periodic regional and national sales, adding an extra 15-30% off; currently, at the time of this reply, Toyota is offering 25% off, at least at southeastern USA dealers.
• When those periodic sales happen, the final discounted price DOES NOT show up until you reach the "checkout" page!! This has been confusing for some people in the past.
• Typically speaking, you'll get free shipping on orders over $75, which may be an incentive to some folks; you once needed to add coupon "FREESHIP" to get it, but lately, I've found dealers to be adding it automatically.
• Some dealers also offer tax-free purchases, I've been using this specific one in Birmingham AL which won't charge tax unless you live in AL ... although I'll warn you, that specific dealership has another store in Decatur AL, and the parts manager at the Decatur store is an unscrupulous, inept piece of shit so I only order from the Birmingham location to avoid the problems that manager (Eric F) has caused for a couple of members on this forum.

As mentioned, there is currently a 25% off sale going on for at least the next 12 days at the linked dealership. They already give you 15-20% off on their normal pricing, so adding in another 25%, with no tax if you're a non-AL resident, and free shipping over $75 ... you could easily save $400 on the parts you'll need, which ... sadly, I think you have to buy the booster + master cylinder combo, and that package usually runs $1k - 1.4k. But hell, if it's normally $1,000 and you can get it for $600 to your door and just refresh everything where you won't need to touch it again for 15-20 years, that's a no-brainer if you ask me.

But if you do have fluid barfing back up into the booster....

I'd urge you to look at this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/im-at-my-wits-end-master-cylinder-issues.39933/page-7#post-3836678

It's possible you may be able to solve the problem for under $10.

 

@shifty` You never cease to amaze me! Thanks for all the info! I don't need it now but I will eventually.

 

You're a mensch, Sir. Amazing post

 

I’d like to throw a shout out to @shifty` for this. I’ve used your how to here to find a couple parts for my tundra, and a super hard to identify part for my gf’s rav4. Huge thanks brother