Front end shaking / Down hill braking

The wife and went to the mountains the past weekend and, while going down hill and breaking the front end would shake quite hard. Speed was about 75 mph. No problem while on flat highway.

Any thoughts?

2019, Crewmax, 43000 miles & new tires.

Thanks

 

Sounds like the front rotors are warping (not uncommon on these rigs cuz they are heavy)....

The reason you feel it more downhill is because you're having to apply more pressure to keep your speeds in check down hill than you do while on a flat surface, so braking from 75mph downhill is more taxing on the system than braking on a flatter stretch of hwy from the same speeds....

Turning the rotors would fix, but since you're removing thickness they will warp faster the next time cuz they have less ability to dissipate heat.

New OE rotors are under $100/ea and pads/hardware about $75, so you'd be under $300 in parts....

 

uneven or warped rotors. Mine did the same things and it only got worse over time. I changed all of my brakes and rotors and problem was fixed.

 

Use S mode and downshift instead of just riding the brakes the whole way down and it will save your rotors and prevent you from overheating them and losing braking power when you need it.

 

Also chiming in on this. Had the same issue, crazy shaking when applying brakes, coming down the mountains at freeway speeds. Multiple attempts to balance wheels at multiple shops did not resolve it. Following brake servicing by the local Toyota dealership, boom, all shaking gone.

 

I'm coming up on 35k miles on my Tundra and slightly starting to feel the same shaking when applying enough brake pressure. Going to start collecting all the parts I need to do a proper and full brake job.
Question I have: Do you guys bleed out your system at every brake job? What's the recommended interval for bleeding out the brake lines and putting fresh fluid in?

 

Is there a better set of rotors one cab buy? If so what is name and where do I buy?

 

Just going to assume you rode (held) your brakes downhill.

 

Some folks like the PowerStop z36 set up.... Alcans are incredible but spendy....

I ran the z36 when I was towing w/my '08 and was happy w/them; they certainly didn't warp and fast as OE and brake noise was not bad w/them (a lot of aftermarket set ups come w/harder pads, etc. resulting in more noise... just make sure you follow their break-in procedures to properly bed the pads for best performance.

https://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-z36-brake-kit/

OE is good, but the system is a bit undersized for the weight of our trucks (IMO) which is why many of us that tow or experience heavy braking result in warped OE rotors, and I'm not hard on brakes... (I don't believe in skinny pedal to the floor and then brake pedal to the floor as needed), but I also don't baby the truck either....

 

Cycle some heat through them to burn off some pad deposits.

 

https://www.buybrakes.com/brake-rotor-and-pad-kits

I just bought and installed EBC rotors and yellow pads all the way around. After speaking with some of the OG members in here I learned green pads wold of worked unless I tow a lot, then yellows would of been adequate.

 

Yes

 

Why would you need to do this. Unless you’re changing the fluid every time you change pads, there’s no reason to touch the bleeders just for rotors and/or pads

 

When you compress the pistons in the calipers, you crack the bleeder to allow the old, contaminated fluid to escape, rather than force it back into the system.

 

Yep. And then I like to follow it up with a little bit more.

 

As long as brakes last me, I’m bleeding the whole system every time I change them.

 

Or just open the cap on the reservoir. After 30 plus years of working on vehicles, including changing brakes over and over and over, I’ve never had to open the bleeder to compress the pistons once the cap is open. The bleeders are there to bleed the system when changing fluid. Not for changing pads.

 

I would not recommend this to anyone

 

lol. Ok. What’s the reason? You have greater chance of introducing air in the system by opening a bleeder than the cap on a full reservoir. You think every mechanic doing a brake job is breaking open the bleeder on a brake pad swap lol.

 

The reason, as previously stated is that the fluid in your calipers is contaminated with water and dirt over time. The amount of time it takes to go through a set of pads is more than enough. That fluid shouldn’t be pushed back into the system, but rather bled or purged out of the bleeders. Why would you not get rid of that dirty fluid?
FYI, it usually looks like this