Limited slip upgrade?

Hey everyone. I've been itching to do more offroading in my 02 2WD RC Tundra. I already have some nice wheels, along with Toyo mt trails, and Bilstien 5100s. Feels great on light offroading but I am a little hesitant to do some rougher trails with my open diff. Eventually, I will long travel my truck and it will be more of a "Daily Pre-runner". My first thought was E-locked but those are very expensive and not the best for what I want to do in the future. Then a spool, but that would SUCK for daily driving. So I decided to settle with LSD. Have any of you guys upgraded from the stock clutch-based LSD? I know most of the part-out trucks nowadays have 200k+ miles so it doesn't make sense to buy a worn-out one. I made a post on the gen 1 Facebook group and I was recommended the Powertraxx Grip pro LSD or the Nitro helical LSD both for the 8.4-inch rear end. Does anyone have any experienced with these or any suggestions? Thank you!

 

I guess choosing a LSD carrier would all depend upon on just what sort of rougher trails you're wanting to go play on. I've had two different jeeps that were my daily drivers. I had spools in the back of both of them. Yes they can suck, but it never bothered me very much at all, so it didn't suck for me. I think it would bother 98% of other drivers out there though! The problem with building up a rig can kinda snowball. The first few times you go out to wheel with a LSD, it will be awesome...until you then decide to travers even more difficult trails. Then that's where a full locker is superior. Only you know how you plan to go wheeling, but if it were me, i'd save up a few more $$$ and go after a selectable locker (E locker or ARB). Especially since you said that you eventually want long travel so that you can turn it into a pre-runner.

 

Look, you're going to spend a ton of money getting anything installed in your diff unless you can do it yourself. Might as well "buy once, cry once" on this one.
I'd regear and go with an elocker or at least regear if you're heart is set on LSD.
I'd consider a torsen style LSD over a clutch.
Another option is a lunch box locker aka an auto locker. It's like a cross between an LSD and a locker

 

My decision would be heavily influenced by what wheel/tire combo I ultimately plan to land with, and the current gearing of my truck.

With 2WD you've got it so much easier, because there's no front diff you need to exactly match gearing with.

If I were you and my truck had 3.91 gearing out back from the factory, and I planned to go with a 32" - 33" tire, I'd probably run 4.1 out back in the flavor or product of your choice. If 34"-35", which will likely cost you heavily in suspension changes and hammering to do properly, I'd probably updae to 4.3

On your pre-2005, correcting speed/odo after is a snap, YellowBox is plug and play.

 

I had east coast gear supply put a truetrac in my (previously) open diff and I've been very happy with it. I don't do much serious offroading, but it really helps even just on wet pavement.

 

Depends.

If your potential trails are going to put a rear wheel in the air, a torsen will act like an open diff. It has to have some kind of resistance for the gear design to work.

I'd recommend an eaton lsd, locker, e-locker or arb air locker (and their caveats).

If that's not an issue you can use a torsen, aftermarket LSD or rebuild and increase the OEM LSD lockup.




I have the powertrax grip pro (torsen) in my truck and like it. My truck is 99% street and occasionally a dirt road.

I'm currently rebuilding the OEM LSD that was in it for more than factory lockup, that's going to another member here.

 

I too have always used the Detroit TrueTrac in anything i have not had an OEM clutch style LSD in
I have always been very happy with how it worked but i wasnt doing serious rock crawling with one tire in the air kinda stuff.

 

I would hope he doesn't plan to attempt trails that put a wheel in the air with a 2wd any thing.

Is the Powertrax grip pro a torsen? I'm hoping to get my Eaton TrueTrac and junkyard Sequoia 4.10's installed next month.

 

Here are my .2 cents. Look at the ARB like a switch. Once activated you use it to get through stuff a LSD or open diff cant get through. With that said, if you are not really flexing out the truck to point of "hanging tires" you will be better served with the LSD in 99% of other scenarios. This is just my opinion.

I only chose the ARB bc I have gotten old 4x4 rigs ( yota's and others) stuck while traversing relatively minor terrain due to suspension travel limitations or lack therefore of. These trucks are not really flex machines. And I noticed that with my 89 and 93 4-runner, they hang tires pretty easy and I got sick of either beating on truck with momentum or e brake " trick" or backing out and going around while anything locked or possesing superior travel went by.

If ypur talking logging trails and snowy roads id go LSD for sure. Others will have to chime in with LSD experience. I almost went truetrack until another member told me he was sick of getting stuck with his and was going locker. Both have pro's and cons. I dont use ARB on pavement unless im hooning donuts on rain slicked road to piss my lady off. But, they are made for those monents when you know your going to be lifting a wheel.

 

From day one I couldn't figure out how the hell my 19k 09 2.7 Taco came with a LSD advertised on my window sticker.
And this monster 45k V8 Tundra comes with a "simulated" eclsd. Talk about rip off.
F-150 is standard Chevy most 5.3 also standard Dodge who knows ??
I've seen the corporate Toyota promo video and yes ultimately the non slipping tire will catch but I've never liked Toyotas rear traction solution. Even though I'll admit because of the less wear on it it will probably outlast a typical LSD.
Regardless I've always thought about getting a used Toyota real LSD if one exist or going Ford 9" like every one else with either 3.73 or 4.11 ratio.
No matter what sequence you disconnect the trac control etc you can never full throttle out of a ditch, sand or even a quick burn out without the Digital Overlord beeping and taking over. I guess that's a good thing again it will probably last longer for it.

 

#NotFirstGenProblems

 

Yep. Torsen.

 

What is yellowbox?

 

I don't see myself doing that much of crazy stuff in my truck, especially sense its a 2wd. I'm talking more about steeper hills and places where 1 wheel might brake loose. Im certainly not going to putting my wheels in the air, unless I'm jumping it

 

I am not going to be doing that type of stuff either but I do like that the LSD will be better for daily driving and a little safer is what I've heard

 

LSD then.

Either rebuild & upgrade your current OEM or an aftermarket: eaton clutch type, torsen (true trac or grip pro).

 

There's one 2wd dude I know that wheels, and wheels hard. I'd value his opinion as well. @RUSTYNUTS.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/yellow-box-speedo-calibrator.31996/

If you're '00-'04 where speedo picks up off the transmission, it's plug-and-play and harnesses come with it.
If you're '05-'06 where speedo picks up off ABS sensors at the wheel, it's cut-and-splice solution.

Either way, when you step away from stock tire sizes your speedo and odometer will read off. With 275/70r17, I'm reading about 5mph off (slower) when I hit 70mph. That puts my gas mileage at 5% worse than normal when I run the numbers the odometer logs, roughly -1 mpg.

 

I've noticed the same with my 275/70/17 also. Good to know! Now I can accurately say my MPG! Thanks!

 

Gist is this:

Go to compare tire sizes, I like this site: Plugin your old size, and your new size, click Compare.

​

The areas of interest in the output are the red and blue box here. Blue box is pretty straightforward, it's how much your speedo will be off, if that's all you care about.

You can calculate your deviation in one of three ways, I believe. You could either (1) calculate % of deviation in speedo, then add that % back to the miles traveled, or from the red box (2) calculate the % of change in revolution and add that % back to the miles traveled, or (3) calculate tthe % of circumferential difference and add that % back in. What that would look like....

1. Speed deviation in this example, taking the highest speed, 90 ÷ 94.7 = approx 0.95, so 95%, so we would be reporting 95% of actual miles traveled, and need to add 5% to the miles logged. 5% in fractional form is 0.05, so if we odometer miles times 1.05, we get our actual miles traveled.
2. Revs/mile deviation in this example, divide our new revs of 627 by old revs 660, 627 ÷ 660 = 0.95, so 95% of actual miles traveled, thus need to add 5% to logged odometer miles. Repeat last half of #1 to calculate actual miles traveled (multiply odometer travel by 1.05)
3. Circumferential difference in this example. They've done the math for us, 96 ÷ 101 = approx 5% (they say 5.2% but I came up w/4.96%). In this case, you'd essentially follow as above, multiply odometer miles times 1.05, or if we use their number, times 1.052

Likewise, if you installed a yellowbox, you'd want to play with the numbers a bit, but telling Yellowbox to correct miles by 5% should put you close enough for government work.

I may be wrong on any of the above, and if I am, I hope someone calls me out. There may be a better of the 3 to choose, mathematically. I know how to get to the numbers logically, I just don't know which method is best.

​