Looking into new sound system! Need Help...!

I had bad white noise using the lc7i, just fyi... nothing wrong with the product, it just amplified my dirty head unit signal. I'm pretty picky though and don't spend my money on things that dont give me exactly what ime looking for.

 

How did the lcq1 work out for you?

 

It's working well. I didn't pump the gain much in the LCQ1. I mainly use it for leveling, EQ and summing. I used the amp for the majority of the gain. There's about 40 dB of dynamic range in the head unit output. I set the final sound power with the Amp for 110 dB ambient as measured at the center console. That's only about 40% of the amp capability but it gives me about 110dB SPL at 90% of the HU volume ( volume level 57). This keeps the HU out of saturation, the amp well inside it's unsaturated linear range, and gives me very good SPL (~ 90 dB) at half (32) volume on the HU. There is no hiss in my output with these levels and it is plenty loud for me if I want to crank it.

I can make it hiss if I boost the LCQ1 and amp to max, but why would anybody want to do that?

 

@GNTundra seems to be eating lotsa nowadays. Well, at least in the last Threads......

 

Well, what if someone has the under the seat storage? Can a system still fit behind the rear seat??? Crew max

 

@GNTundra & @TundraTex are great resources. They set me straight on my build. Picked up just about everything from Amazon and wired it up. Very simple to do. Check out their build threads.

 

I have the ESP under seat storage installed and was still able to install a small sub. Tight, but it works.

 

Where at thou?

 

Strongly Agree. They both helped me with my builds....

 

Pics here in my audio build thread.

 

It still amazes me that Toyota will not offer a fix for the garbage JBL "upgrade" in the 1794 and Platinum Editions. That I am looking at investing $1000+ to make the stereo on my $53,000 truck functional is an outrage. I demonstrated to the sales and service managers that the bass cannot be turned above mid-level or the doors vibrate, and that there is no volume to speak of. They agreed, forwarded the info to Regional, and 6 month later the reply was "sorry" with an offer to insulate the rear doors to "try" to eliminate the vibration...at "dealer cost". ($400 out of pocket for something that "might" work on a new truck?) Anyone considering "upgrading" to the JBL system; don't waste your money! Lots of great suggestions on this thread...probably going to go the Best Buy/Alpine route and leave the stock head in place.

 

A.r.e. Z-series camper shell. (Yakima roof rack)
Amp research powered running boards
4" lift
TRD cold air intake
TRD rear sway bar
18" TRD Wheels
285/75/r18 Bridgestone dueler Revo 2 tires
Dual 10" shallow mount jl audio subs. (Foxacoustics.com box)
Focal 6.5" expert with components in front
Focal 6.5" intermediate in rear doors.
Jl audio 5/900 amp
Kenwood ddx 394 deck

 

What do you mean factory head unit upgrades ?

 

finger prints on the screen........

 

lol

 

Seriously though, i had an EQ app on my phone that i could manipulate sounds and tweak a little more. That phone is long gone so now i'm back to factory adjustments

 

Annie heard the factory JBL up louder the other day... if she said it sounds like shit you know it’s bad... which works to my advantage

 

Tell her how muffled sound like that can actually hurt your ears long term.....you need some clarity not to ruin her ears, the kids, the grand kids, and the dog's ears

It's a necessary investment as not to ruin the lives of everyone around you. If you need me to talk to her and pretend to be deaf i can

 

Awesome build! Did you use a DSP in your audio build? Or just RCAs right to the amp?

 

haha Thanks buddy. I started another thread here. Weigh in.

 

Getting installed Monday .. with 2 JL Amps.

 

You won't be sorry for doing this. I did the same thing but also changed out the door speakers & and sound deadening. The whole system sounds amazing. Crisp clean clear sound through the whole frequency range.

 

I also am running a JL Fix 86 processor to keep my factory Head unit.

 

Sounds about right.

 

I have 2 10" SL Series subs and a M1c amp, all by Digital Designs while keeping my factory head unit. Love my set up, these things bang. Subs put out 400-800RMS with a burst of 1600WATTS each. Due to the magnet being on the front of the subs, the mounting depth is only 3.75", which is pretty insane. I have a custom box behind my rear seats, amp is under driver side seat. The subs run about $400 each, and the amp is about $500-600. I did tons of research before settling and I couldn't find many (if any, now that I think about it) bad reviews.

I'm looking to upgrade the door speakers and tweeters once I get the chance but I keep getting distracted buying other stuff haha

Don't know your budget, but check out DD. If you want quality, I'd say they're pretty top notch. I'm pretty more than happy with my set up, but it was a little expensive, not gonna lie. But I do prefer quality, even if it a little more.

 

why the TwK and FiX? what do you gain from adding the TwK?

 

The FIX processes the OEM H/U sound and flattens it - essentially functioning as a high quality line out converter (the FIX does have some limited EQ ability). The TWK is a digital DSP.

 

Got it. I had thought that the FiX was also a DSP. Thanks for the clarification.

 

I'm still just as lost now as I was on day 1, ha. There are so many options so I dont know what to do. But I haven't looked much more into it really. There isn't a clear cut way, so I'll just put it off.

 

In that case, look hard at the OEM Audio Plus system. I had it in my 16 Taco and it was very good. Not great, but very good. I wanted to put together my own system in my tundra, otherwise I would have done the same.