General Supercharger Thread

Yup, new bolts in the Toyota order.

 

furthest away from the booster. so the start would be rear pass then rear drive then pass the drive

 

He's talking about the TRD calipers. They have 2 bleed ports per front caliper.

 

I want to say that the SOS kit instructions mentioned tapping the caliper with a rubber mallet to assist the bubbles...it's been a while since I did them though...

 

Damn! I needed to order 2.


Adios 20 bucks!

 

And more $ shipping...been there!

 

That's local, picked up, somehow they wanted 125 freight to ship.

 

Crazy for freight and in store fee?

 

Yup. It was 30 to get it shipped (total from another dealer) Camelback Toyota is near a hole in the wall burger place I like so I'll go at lunch time and get a burger.

 

There's a pickup fee? WTAF?! The next thing you know there'll be a fee to communicate via email. Or they'll try to start charging for parking in their lot when you go in to pay the pickup fee.

 

It's crazy but it's the cheapest total and my fault for thinking I was getting all 4.

 

What was wrong with the original bolts?

 

Different thread pitch.

 

Just stupid to sell a few bolts. Ridiculous.

This is one of the reasons I like my Toyotas. 5 different size wrenches to take the whole thing apart.

 

Coarse thread pitch is used as the female aluminum threads of the caliper are much weaker than the bolt. It’s a strength issue, and probably the reason for the change

 

I noticed some anomalies pulling the camper home today on a shorter 1.5 hour trip. I had pending (not active) lean codes on both banks and noticed they were +20 to+30 most of the ride home. I also noticed KFV as low as -6.5 and KCLV as low as 13 at times. There was also a pending P0101 code. I only started looking more closely and scanning for codes when it seemed a little boggy when I merged at one location. I just filled up last night before hooking up and leaving today. Could it be something as simple as bad gas or should I be looking for a vacuum leak? The AFRs still went plenty rich on the wideband when needed. LTFTs looked good on the trip out mostly hanging within +\- 5.

 

I use this every 3rd blue moon

because

 

That seems like a sure vac leak especially if fuel trims we're close to zero and suddenly positive. What's idle LTFT, or STFT since that what's happing in real time.

 

We just got home so I didn’t get to poke around, but I was thinking I’d check those out as well! I also noticed when coasting and not on throttle I’d see as high as +40 especially bank 1 and I didn’t know if that was normal.

 

Yeah +40 something is wrong. Usually you'll throw a code anything +/-20/25.

 

Weird. I started the truck up today and did a lot of idling around putting the trailer back in its parking spot. When I first started it LTFTs were + 18 to +16 and STFTs were -15 to -17. It was running for probably 15 minutes. It learned all the way back down to hovering around 0 again. Gonna adjust all connections and hose clamps for the airbox and TB just in case.

 

TB gasket/o-ring?

 

I didn’t take the TB off and look at it, yet anyway. I haven’t had the TB off since installing the blower so it would be odd for it to be leaking there but anything could happen. Only thing I found suspect when taking the intake off was a slightly shifted boot going onto the airbox but not loose, and more worryingly the one screw hole for the MAF sensor is definitely stripped so that screw isn’t pulling it in as tightly and I could have possibly had a leak around the MAF. Not sure how to fix that though, maybe stuff some plastic epoxy in the hole and make new threads with the screw.

 

Also, this is great. If the link works…

 

China Nick order has arrived, I do wish I could get parts made in the US for a good price, but fuck he does awesome work.

 

Oh my

 

You vs the guy she tells you not to worry about

 

LOL looks damn good dude. Be curious how our current tune for the LS would be vs this. I bet more or less like stock and no air load bs etc

 

There will probably still be the airload tweaks needed, but that should be it. There shouldn't be any worry about how the ECM is communicating with the throttle body and adapters (granted your electrical adapter is a bit special). There shouldn't be any wizardry to make everything play nice, just tweaking the tune and it will respond the same as a factory setup. At least that's the hope...

 

I've gotta get the bumper back on first.