Torn Power Steering Rack Boots on 2000 Tundra – How Urgent is Replacement?

I replaced my bellows not to long ago with the cheap moog bellows. It takes about 30 minutes to replace both sides.

There is no reason to remove the tires or tie rod end.
- Lift and support the truck so the front tires are off the ground.
- Measure/mark/count threads to locate the jam nut and tie rod relation.
- Remove outer bellow clamp.
- Loosen jam nut.
- Hold tie rod end and completely unscrew the tie rod.
- Remove jam nut.
- Remove bellow.
- Install bellow. Secure inner clamps.
- Slide on outer bellow clamp.
- Thread on jam nut <-- DON'T FORGET THIS
- Thread tie rod back into tie rod end.
- Set tie rod/jam nut based on the measurement/mark/thread counting you did earlier.
- Secure jam nut.
- Install outer bellow clamp.
- Drop vehicle back on the ground.

 

I replaced those bellows myself. Yay. Only a few days after it, I heard a squicky, very pronounced noise. It squicks only when the wheels are straight and I stir a little (left-right, left-right) I made a video, but cannot upload it(mp4 format is unacceptable). Does anyone have any idea what it might be? I don't really know if that's relevant to that I changed those bellows though, maybe it's something new, something with the steering bar?

 

I left mine leaking for 10k & replaced when doing TRE's 5k later. Wrapped em with duct tape & zip-ties & that worked great for 7k or so

 

Poly bushings will do it, notorious for squeak. But could also be LBJ or UBJ metal on metal is notorious for creak. Only way to tell is to jack up both front wheels and turn at one wheel manually to try and reproduce. Then jack up one side at a time, and go through the push/pull test on the wheel with hands at clock positions 3/9, 6/12, and on diagonals. You're looking for any noteworthy play, so this must be done with one side up, one side down. I'd then wedge a pry bar under the tire when it's about an inch off the ground and try to lift it, and observe for play in the ball joints.

 

What a professional. Uses zip ties instead of reusing the clamp and installing a new band. SMH

 

Pretty sure that specific boot kit comes w/zip ties.

 

Thank you. What is poly bushings exactly?
UBJ was replaced just recently, LBJ was inspected and they were fine, but when I was replacing bellows, I disconnected LBJ and connected them back after, is there a possibility I over-tight the castle nut, or the opposite - I tight it too much?
Also, it happens only on the driver's side. And I realize that when the truck drives straight it also squeaks. When it's parked, I push it (to try out suspension), and it also squeaks.
It has been a few days since I changed bellows, so it has not started squicking immediately.
Squick is only produced at the point when the wheels have not even started to turn (at that slack when the wheels are straight and about to start turning)

 

There are two types of bushings. Rubber and Polyurethane. Rubber tends to be flatte/matte finish and softer, both in their composition and how they handle, more cushy. Poly tends to be shiny, sometimes comes in different colors, and is harder/firmer, which is how they handle also.

With poly bushings, you must use a poly-safe lubricant anywhere the bushing will touch metal, else SQUEAK SQUEEK SQUEEEEEK when you activate them.

Did you follow OEM torque specs on shit or just ugga-dugga things together like a fucking neanderthal? Torque specs are freely available and help you avoid over-torquing and running into issues like this.

 

thank you—yes I know about torque specs. But I don't have a torque wrench. So yeah "like a fucking neanderthal" but I don't think I was crazy neanderthal, but yes, maybe it is a problem