What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Solar panels reverse charge starting battery once house battery is full with this controller

Starter battery never dies!

 

Starter can have all the fun it wants trying to turn a seized motor

If my truck seizes and I'm stuck in the shade, at least I can move my portables in the sun and keep my beer cold...

 

Two things, I doubt either is the problem.

First, your anti rattle spring is installed backwards, I think. Supposed to be on top.

Second, your screamer pad has to be in a specific position. on the outboard (lug nut) side of the rotor, and screamer pointed up to catch the leading edge.

but yeah, I’d be suspecting the pad retainers if the pistons aren’t crunchy. They need to be cleaned up or better yet replaced.

 

Some guy on Facebook yesterday asked about it, and another guy replied with a video. Something about how you need to pay attention to the grooves on the shaft or something, and wiggle it on.

 

After collecting parts for the last few months. A lot of new parts are finally going in today.

-oem LCA, new oem lower ball joints (current ones are 50k miles in and are 5 years old), steering rack from Fr33 Lance fab (updated name) with poly bushings, oem outer tie rods, new oem alignment cam

 

May the force be with you.

 

I've been thinking about it. I did it in the dark early morning. I may have put something on the shaft previously to make it tighter (that I didnt notice). Back when I replaced them with a stock looking set.
Blower knob has a slight wobble as well

 

What bulbs did you use for the interior, specifically the HVAC and center console area. I've already replaced the instrument cluster, but now I need the center stack to match. Possibly want to do map lights, dome, doors, etc.

 

I am reclassifying my exhaust leak to a driveline issue.
After some testing, I think I have a driveline issue. I thought I had an exhaust leak, but now I'm second guessing.
I hear a ticking (sounds like exhaust leak) when driving and accelerating. I can't hear it when coasting, or when revving the engine in park. Yesterday I tried putting the truck in Neutral while driving and revving the engine and still could not hear the ticking.
Not sure where to start now, but seems odd that only when accelerating in drive. I'm hoping it's not the flex plate or a transmission issue.

 

besides the Poly bushings. any another special features on the rack?

 

No, nothing special other than they spray painted it black and included the poly bushings.

Bought it because I couldn’t get a new oem rack and read about people having issues with oem dealer reman-racks.

So I decided to support a fellow 1st Gen small business. Been following the guy that rebuilds these and decided to give it a try. He is also local to me. I am going to keep my rack and send it to get rebuild since it wasn't leaking and a good core, the parts are starting to getting rare now

https://fr33lancefab.com/products/first-gen-tundra-sequoia-steering-rack?syclid=crh07ipjqd2c739sdceg

 

Nice, funny thing I went to the 1st recommendation you wrote and they had no racks but a cool rack billet piece (333 Fab)

 

Yeah I put the wrong company, should have been fr33lance fab

 

Went to the dealer for a quote on the labor to install LBJ's, just the labor, and it's $317.00 per side. Sheeeeesh.

 

Dont know if you have tools or the space, but I did the LBJs about 6 years ago when i just bought the truck. Had very little wrenching experience and I did my LBJs myself with very few issues. Just letting you know incase you were thinking itd be too difficult to DIY.

 

Dude we can literally get the job done in 45 mins per side working together. Screw the stealership.

 

I was here getting an oil change on the wife's car and asked for shits and giggles.

I do have the LBJs at home, bought them a while ago. I can get a case of beer and whatever you want for payment to help me swap em out! Going up to pigeon forge today, but we can figure a day out when I'm back on this side of town.

 

Sounds like way more than the cost of a jack, stands, torque wrench, socket/wrench sets, straps for hanging the knuckle/hub (and other tools that can be rented for free)!

 

Got all the new parts installed (new steering rack, new LCA and ball joints). Got an alignment also. Below are my numbers. Happy to report I no longer rub on the frame on the driver side at full lock with ko2 33s (after 5 years). The only original part on the truck front end now are the wheel bearings

 

Changed front diff oil in sequoia yesterday (did the rest of drivetrain oil few weeks ago). I'm 0/2 in getting front diff drain plugs out easily between both trucks. twice now I've rounded the female hex and ended up having to weld on a socket in order to get it removed. I definitely went at it a bit like an ape though - I didn't have a 1/2 drive 10mm hex (it was sacrificed to get my truck plug removed a couple years ago haha) so I used a 3/8 drive and pipe. Couldn't get it to break free and got inpatient, you know the rest...

Seems like both times after welding the socket on it actually breaks free easily, so the heat makes the difference. That and using proper 1/2 drive socket and breaker bar.

 

Also changed the battery in sequoia. I've had good luck with the Toyota 84 month battery, this one was exactly 6 years old. Wasn't showing any problems, but has to be nearing the end. I'm about to be out Backcountry hunting for a few weeks and didn't want to leave wife with battery problems. Seems like whenever I'm gone is when we have house/car problems (flat tires, broken sprinklers, storm tree damage, etc). This was my best guess at preemptively fixing something.

Went with Costco interstate instead of Toyota as it was $50 cheaper. In the past Costco didn't have 27F batteries so it wasn't a option.

 

I like Costco batteries because they do a no question swap or warranty replacement within the 3 years

 

Is your rf spindle bent?

 

Yeah I've had a few Costco batts over the years. One currently in Camry (couple years) and used a few on my past boats. But I've had 2x Toyota 84 batts last 5-6 years. Both times I replaced them before having any issues. So I wanted to stick with them as its hard to leave a brand that has performed well - but $50 cheaper convinced me. Hopefully the interstate lasts as long!

 

I forget the part number but there is a lexus diff plug that has a typical bolt instead of the hex

 

That'd be nice... Having made the same mistake twice now I *think* I'll be successful next time. But it's a couple years away so not going to worry about it. Haha

 

I was wondering about that one too

 

Lexus Front Diff Plugs

Drain plug: 90341-24016
Fill plug: 90341-18060

 

Dropped a gallon of old ATF out and dumped in a new gallon. Valvoline per Heathers recommendations.

 

This could very well be placebo, but I used that for my last full fluid exchange in my sequoia and recently did a drain and fill with the synthetic in the red bottle and it shifts noticeably smoother.