Car Care Nut head gasket warning

Ya'll might want to watch this one. I always thought the Toyota suggestion of the first coolant service at 100k and then every 50k was odd. I just did a 60K service last week. Coolant looked good, but after watching this, I know what I'm doing this coming week.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGTI0sWozc

 

Yup, just ordered stuff for my 2GR with 147K and coolant system never touched.

 

Cool, every 50k it is from now on. Only have 120k on mine. Hopefully it will be alright. Thank you for sharing!

 

I did mine at 30K. Did a drain and fill twice from the rad and block just to make sure everything is as fresh as possible. One of the easiest PM services you can do next to an oil change. I'll be doing this every 50k or 5 years, whichever comes first.

 

My ADD kicks in when I watch the CCN. Too much potatoes and not enough meat. Can anyone provide the Cliff notes? Is he trying to say old coolant is now killing 5.7 headgaskets?

Seems if that's the case, the Gen III guys would be beating us V8 owners over the head with this

 

Cliff notes: Old coolant gets acidic and eats away at the steel head gasket, enough to create problems, specifically around cylinders 5 and 7 for an unknown reason. If the engine overheats, the aluminum block can warp. Due to how they are constructed (aluminum cast around the steel sleeve) they cannot safely be machined. A new block alone is $6k. Change your coolant at 50k/5yr intervals to help avoid.

 

All Toyota engines that have this type of head gasket.
The Video title is misleading. IMO
The video example is a Land Cruiser with 200k Miles.
Coolant becomes acidic and wears out the black coating providing a new path for the coolant to enter the cylinder. Seems the coating is the only thing preventing this.
In the pic you can see the coating has been wore out and the hole is where coolant travels.
Change your coolant as required to prevent.
He also did say that the 3.5 engine design would leak on the outside (floor) if this happens not on the inside like this, which is not as bad.

 

Thank you. He mentioned the car was in for rodent damage near the knock sensor. Could the knock sensor have failed to sense a pre ignition condition? That too can do some damage.

 

With my 4.7L every 100kish miles I change out the timing belt, water pump and replace the coolant

Wouldn’t the issue of the coolant becoming acidic be more of a time issue and not total miles driven?

 

I think the more it's subjected to air the more acidic it get. I could be wrong. Maybe I'll take my argon bottle and purge my overflow tank.

 

As soon as I seen Toyotas recommendation is 100k and then 50k I decided to do it at 50k and this video makes me happier that I did. He makes a point about not being about to find a Land Cruiser engine but why cant he put in a 3UR from a Tundra, is it not the same?

 

just put a volt meter and check the coolant, rev the engine to around 2k rpm, if it reads 0.4v or higher, its time to change it.

 

Landcruiser has a different transmission, it has another gear for smoother 1st to second acceleration if I remember correctly. They have 8? gears. While back a lot of us were trying to figure out if we could get better mpg by going this route, but learned it was just for a smoother shift.

Someone smarter than me will chime in to clarify whatever I messed up. But IMO that's the difference. (ECU and other bits)

 

The real answer to their dilemma is an LS swap imho

 

So are you saying the transmission will not bolt up?

 

That might be the first time I have ever heard someone suggest such a thing.

@reywcms. Ditch the set up and just plug in an LS? If anyone would of done it by now it'd of been you or Victor.

 

I have exceeded my knowledge by just posting that. ​

 

What’s the fun in that lol. Everyone swaps LS’s lol a built 6.8 3urfe and 20 psi sounds more fun lol

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/6-speed-to-8-speed-conversion.77663/

 

No answers there lol but it would seem like a totally doable thing to be able to do since the engine is a 3UR, I asked the same question on the youtube video but doubt he will respond

 

Got a good youtube video that shows me how to do this from a complete newb perspective?

This is what I found

https://youtu.be/_8et5LwGKRg?feature=shared

 

These are the only photos I took when I did the service. Its pretty straightforward. Drain the radiator, there is a petcock you open on the bottom of it. Many will stop there but you can also drain two valves, one on each side of thr engine, I used a tube to connect to the spigot of the valves to drain into the pan. Once drained, refill from the radiator using one of these funnels that attach so that way once its filled you can run the engine til its up to temp and the thermostat opens and it will bleed any air out of the system. Fill your overflow tank to the proper level as well and your done. Mine took about two gallons. Part number for the coolant is 00272-SLLC2.

The hardest part is opening the valve in the engine block, simply because they are hard to get to, you'll need some extensions and a swivel or u joint socket

 

Maybe it’s a wiring harness / ECU issue. I changed spark plugs on both and there are differences in the layout of the accessories in the very least. They take different air filters, have different cooling systems, etc.

 

That’s a pretty good little write up. Thanks!

 

Pretty close to what i did. I drained close to 3 gallons just from the passener block drain and rad. Truck was raised on ramps.

 

Sorry if I offend you in advance, but how does one Toyota Tech with a Y-Tube channel come to the conclusion that it is a fact that old coolant caused this blown head gasket, anyone? The fact that the gasket material was missing near that cylinder means absolutely nothing after it has been pulled off, if you look at the gaskets there are lots of pieces missing from being pulled apart during disassembly. What if it was a bad batch of cylinder heads, or maybe improperly torqued from the factory? See how this works, all speculation.

 

Sure, but it doesnt change the fact that Toyota recommends changing the coolant every 50,000 miles, after the 100,000 mile change. Meaning they know that the coolant should be changed at 50,000 miles but they know it will also make it to 100,000 without failure and then you'll be out of the warranty period, similar the the whole taking away the transmission cooler and doing 10,000 mile oil changes. You can neglect the hell out of these trucks and they will make it to 100,000 no problem, but if you're looking to make them last, maintenance is cheap insurance, you're talking 2 gallons of coolant and a little of your time, why risk it?

 

Did you even watch the video? Multiple yota models with this head gasket design were referenced.

 

It makes sense keeping fresh coolant in the engine should help keep acidity down and protect the gaskets. I don’t see this being a super common problem on these engines either though. There aren’t that many posts on this issue here, or on Facebook. The dude bought a 3rd gen, so part of the shilling process is to find faults in the V8 wherever possible.

 

When the coolant gets old and acidic it will attack and eat at everything it touches, including the internal passages, water pump and radiator which isn't mentioned.
The same with brake fluid, which should be done every few years, notice the dark color of the brake master cylinder reservoir.
If the fluid reservoirs are dark, it's been eating away at something.
Fluid changes and flushes are a necessity but are mostly neglected. "You can pay me now or you can pay me later" (old commercial).