2006 Tundra Lug Nut Torque

Need advice. I try to do most of my own maintenance on my 2006 4WD SR5 Tundra. When I rotate the tires or work on the brakes, I torque my lug nuts to the manual specification of 76 ft/lbs. It does feel a little light, but I have never had any problems. I had some brake problems that I needed help with and had a local, highly reputable garage help me yesterday. I asked him about the lug nut torque. He responded that they use a Toyota torque stick that is set at 120 ft/lbs. This is what they do and have always done. I have also had other garages in the past say that they use 110 to 120 ft/lbs. I did not argue with the man. I paid my bill and left. So what opinions or advice is out there? Should I not worry and shoot for 100 - 120 as long as they are all the same? I know the aluminum alloy rims can be warped or damaged by over tightening. I have had to use a breaker bar to remove the nuts after the local dealer installed new tires on it.

 

I aim for ~90-92 ft/lbs with stock 17" aluminum wheels

 

83 ft-lbs is the FSM value.

 

Yep, chilton’s is the same. Not sure where they get 120 from. Maybe 2007+ tundras or something?

 

This

Toyota just did my 10,000 and they set them at 92

I think 120 means they used the air method

They used the air gun and guessed

Specs online

2000 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2001 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2002 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2003 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2004 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2005 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2006 83 lbf.ft M12 x 1.50
2007 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2008 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2009 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2010 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2011 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2012 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2013 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2014 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2015 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2016 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2017 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50
2018 154 lbf.ft (steel wheels), 97 lbf.ft (aluminium wh M14 x 1.50

 

Maybe they misread. 90 ftlbs is about 120nm or torque.

 

90 foot pounds with a good torque wrench, not a torque stick. Some shops use torque sticks for speed a good shop will use a torque wrench.

 

I use the German torque specs:

good n tight

 

Don’t forget the little färt to finish it off.

 

The problem with German torque specs is a lot of time bolts end up "broke n loose".

 

I hope it’s just a fart

 

Old thread, I found most of what I needed, but can anyone provide me a picture of what a stock lug nut looks like? I have a set with no washer device on the back like I see in photos of replacement lugs online, and I am curious if I have aftermarket lugs that may have a different interior width or depth than stock.

 

Depends on your wheels, of course, but the common "Starfish" wheel uses this:

 

I’ve got the both types of 16” wheels from 05-06 and the standard 17”. Don’t have the starfish. Do they really change shape or just colors?

 

I set my cheap HF stick to 85 and send it.
Our 13 Ferd Edge lug torque is 100ftlb! Seems kind if excessive.

 

Universal rule of thumb that works 100% of the time, at least 90% of the time...

You can almost always look inside the lug hole. Is the seat at the bottom of the hole angled or flat?

A lug nut needs to seat flush at the bottom of the pocket, basically achieving two goals: (1) Have the same seat profile, i.e. flat or angled, and (2) having the correct bore/width to center the nut and wheel, where applicable.

There are two basic types for our trucks: Conical or mag style. Mag is what's used on virtually all OEM alloys (I say "virtually all" because I'm not 100% certain on BBS wheels you see on some packages).

You'll find the conical or tapered style on steelies. Mag seat on the alloys. And the small diameter spline drive shown here are pretty common for aftermarket wheels (Method, SCS, etc.), and I'm fairly certain the angled seats are normally 60° angle.

​

 

Yeah I have fairly long skinny conical ones on my alloys, I think they’re causing the alloy to deform slightly. I was stung in the armpit 3 times by a Yellowjacket that flew up there while I was taking this picture that doesn’t even show much . I will pull one off once home for a better image.

 

Yeah they’re way off. Switching the lugs out with my RWD TRD sport now, it has much smaller tires and won’t see the abuse that this 4x4 will. The very top lug is oem in this picture, not as pretty but much more robust.

 

Man I hate yellowjackets and hornets.

Was hiking on a paved MUP thru the woods with the family a couple weeks back. We passed a pile of woods, stepped onto the dirt for one second to take a pic of a mushroom, there were mushroom everywhere due to the rains.

Walk 5ft away, get buzzed by something. Next thing you know. We’re all getting swarmed by Yellowjackets. Wife standing next to me, has three land on her at once. I swatted two off and told everyone to haul ass QUICK. Couldn’t get the third off her before it started to zap her, and it was holding on stinging for dear life. Get it off her and we bolt. Those MFers chased us for about 100 yards. We didn’t touch SHIT. Best guess, they were homed up in a nearby woodpile that was a few feet from where we were taking pics. NFC what triggered them.

Im accustomed to getting hit by bald faced hornets and the occasional Yellowjacket. Doesn’t bug me, I take down occasional bald faced nests around the yard, and I used to run over yellowjacket nests running the plow at my grandpas house in north LA as a kid. Man, her OTOH, her arm swole up about 2x normal, to the point skin was cracking, then it went dark red and leathery for a week or two. It was nuts.

Anyway, hate em. Would pour gas on em and light em on fire as a kid.

 

@shifty` - so you’re not a Georgia Tech fan.
In all seriousness I’ve found most aftermarket lug nuts to be lacking vs OEM.

 

I mean, they both suck but I'll drink beer with and watch those yellowjackets any day, all day. I'd occasionally see some of the players at Rocky Mountain Pizza when we hung out there bitd. I'm too old for that shit now.

 

Looks to me like you have an assortment of at least 3 different lug nuts...

 

Whatever style the wheel requires, ones going to work correctly, and the other isn't

 

Pretty sure I have conicals on my starfishes.

 

Confirmed.

 

When I refurbished my stock/steelies I needed lugnuts. I learned a little about Hub-centric and Lug-centric, and the conical degrees. Damn things cost me $40 or more if I recall, just basic lugnuts nothing chrome or fancy.

 

90 is what the local Toyota shop told me for the stock 17-in wheels and that's what I use as well.

 

Hans weighing in here;