2000 4wd Tundra Gear Oil in Drum assembly

Hey All,

So I've encountered the not so uncommon issue of the rear axle leaking fluid into the drum assembly and I will definitely need to replace the shoes as well as look into the differential itself. I've already order parts on Amazon to relocate the pumpkin vent into my tailight so that it doesn't get clogged.

But I'm wondering how big of a job replacing shoes and sealing the axle is? Should I take it on myself or am I better off sending it to a mechanic to get it done? The truck has had its rear axle issues with the previous owner getting it sealed on 3 separate occasions in a short span of time, which is why I suspect the vent valve to be the culprit.

I also plan on replacing the front brakes with machined GX460 Calipers and Rotors so I was wondering if OEM 2000 tundra rear brakes were the way to go, or if there was also another consensus on what is best there.

 

IIRC correctly can swap on the Tundra 13WL calipers and rotors with a little shield trimming.

Swapping rear shoes is not really hard and there's a lot of videos on it. Getting them adjusted correctly is key. Look at the megathread for tips.

Likely as you note the rear diff breather could be clogged but that is easy to pop out test, clean, or replace. Or maybe each time the seals were swapped the axle retainers are not being placed in the correct spot so not mating to the seal.

The rear Axle seal replacement is tricky but can be done. @remington351 has perhaps the best writeup I've seen.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/recent-axle-seal-tips-hints-and-prayers.92986/#post-2345610

There are other ways including videos using a pipe as the SST instead of a press.

Even if you dont have a press and the SST, so have a shop do it, have found it best to pull the axle and talk to them about the specifics so they might get it right, then test fit with the grease/sharpie test instead of just trusting the placement and slapping it back together. In that case one technique is have them leave it a little shy of where you think it should ultimately be, test it, and adjust if necessary with a 12" section of pipe.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/weird-rear-wheel-bearing-circlip-issue.144332/#post-3656586

That way they don't go just 2mm too far and it then might leak again.

Also I would use the OE parts or true Nachi bearings.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/weird-rear-wheel-bearing-circlip-issue.144332/#post-3631838

 

Yep, make sure the shop knows what it's doing. Rear axle seals on this generation are notorious for being tricky. Same with the first gen Tacomas. I had an axle bearing go out on my 98 Tacoma. Truck had to be towed, and couldn't go to my trusted mechanic. While it was in the shop, I figured I'd have him do both rear bearings and axles seals. I know a previous owner had a axle seal leak that was fixed, but in 5 years of owning the truck I never had.

Got the truck back with fresh rear axle bearings and seals. Two weeks later...leaking axle seal. Brought it back to him. One week later, same seal leaking. Finally brought it to my trusted mechanic in another town, and it was finally good. But 3 years and 50,000 miles later, right when I sold the truck, I noticed it was leaking again.

They're tricky, and not only would I personally not attempt it myself, but I'd make damn sure the shop I brought it to understands this generation of Toyota truck and how temperamental the rear axle seals are. And has the right tools. When I brought my truck to the "better" mechanic, he mentioned it was a complete mess back there. Burning, banging, mangling went on with the first mechanic trying to get things apart, because he didn't have the specialty tools.

 

Right, and the previous owner even had struggles with the Toyota dealership in Langley BC, as they had tried to seal it twice as well. I'm gonna check if I have warranty with that job up here before I get in there myself.

 

If you're in BC, don't gloss over the part @ToyotaDude mentioned regarding the vent/breather on top of the rear differential pumpkin.

Other members from your province have shown their trucks with ample rust. That breather is mandatory to prevent pressure buildup inside the rear axle housing and should be changed with your gear oil, or every 50k-60k. It's a $10-15 USD part, so not breaking the bank, and takes 2mins to change.

I'd check that first. Don't get me wrong, there's 100% a solid chance the shop prior did it wrong. Rear bearings and seals are notorious for being a bitch to get correct. But you can get the job perfect, then fuck your perfect newly pressed bearings and seals up, just because that cheap little part is dead.

If that little breather gets stuck or clogged, pressure builds up in the axle housing, and guess where the easiest blow-by point is? Your axle seals.

 

Already have parts coming in from Amazon to relocate it into the tailight housing. But yes it's safe to assume it hasn't been changed since factory