General Supercharger Thread

Added to the useful page links at the bottom.

 

I got a vaccuum bleeder, drained, vacuumed & filled, no change, gets to 210 (and climbing) at 110 ambient. I'm thinking the sub 500 mile OEM thermostat failed closed, before I go through the R&R (which requires pulling the radiator) does that make sense & is there anything else to check (the car was running fine for 500ish miles)

 

Does the thermostat have a jiggle valve and is it in the right spot? Some engines seem finicky about it. Lack of water flow at the thermostat can stop it getting hot and opening. I've faced many thermostat issues, on most engines I build I drill a hole in the thermostat flange (or a few, like 1/8") to make sure the thermostat/jiggle valve orientation doesn't matter and there will always be some water flow. Not sure if that matters in your case, but point being the thermostat may be fine even if it's not opening.

 

Don't think it has any valves. I have a new one, along with 500+ in other parts I didn't use from when I was rebuilding my old motor.

This was done by a guy kind of like Toby that specializes in old BMW motors.

From a video:








I checked the hoses.

Not run to temp but lower feels much cooler

Upper



Lower

 

What's the thinking, in a climate that is never under 85 80% of the year and never under 60, removing the thermostat?

 

My Speed3 reaches 210 to 217 in 90 degree weather. Fan hits at 217. Haven't yet had any problems for it is within parameters. What's the Beemer usually run?

 

I know just a picture of expensive ass gas at a gas pump. But made for damn sure, double checked and checked again that 85 wasn't going in. First few miles had some knockfeedback but that shit gas has burned and back to knock free!

 

The inane temp gauge is at the middle at 170 & stays there to 215. I had not checked actual temps until now. Above 215, it goes up a needle width, at 225, (live data in the Autel) I have been turning it off.

I am running a mixture of BMW blue, & water wetter.

I can't help but think the thermostat is the issue.

 

bout the same prices here ,if not more here

 

Plus you have another skill set in case you need to go dark at some point

 

It is done, temp is higher at the lower hose now so that's done, damn thing won't bleed.

Thermostat was stuck closed.





Got a DeWalt light bar, it can use both 12 & 20v batteries.





After all this, the damn sub 250 mile radiator has a freaking drip at the end tank, (can't be the cause of the overheating, it was happening before the drip & the system was full)

I ordered a CSF, will be here Tuesday.

 

Got my truck back from the shop finally! Installed a IPT fully built transmission. They also installed propseed motor mounts (poly bushings), trans cooler and new starter (since it was no labor). Great shop too.

I then got it home and put in IKH24 plugs (from IKH22), new gates green belt, mishimoto 160 degree thermostat, SDHQ traction bars, changed oil, went stock O2 setup instead of defoulers (then tuned it out), removed brass boost restrictor and put my RCF throttle body back on. Then did a slightly modified Sniv tune to start out with.

IPT transmission is definitely awesome. The shifts are noticeable but not head jerking or anything like that. It’s actually fairly stock like but just feels more controlled/solid. Downshifts are immediate and no longer have issues with like a 6 to 3 downshift on the freeway type situation. Having my reverse back was great too haha.

Prospeed mounts were a surprise to myself and the team that installed them. Turns out with long tube headers you have to remove the headers for access. Once installed though you could barely notice any vibration difference, which everyone there thought it would make something rattle but it just didn’t. This plus the transmission makes the power feel much more controlled/immediate.

SDHQ traction bars took alot more effort to install than I thought since you have to lower the fuel tank to install one of the brackets. I need to dial these in more as I think I created a slight shimmy at certain freeway speeds. These bars are great though as if you give it the beans the tires just spin and truck just stays planted.

The lower thermostat plus trans cooler has me at 176 engine temp after spirited driving at 60 ambient with the trans below 200 whereas before my trans was 225 or more constantly and engine closer to 200.

A possible solution I found for a surging/fluctuating idle situation that started after going longtubes/high flow cats may be in the tuning. At least for the newer 5.7s there is a catalytic converter process the engine does whenever it can (usually idle or coasting) and it will alternate lean/rich on opposite banks (looks like dna in the logs) trying to test the cats. This resulted in the rpms going from like 500-1000 randomly. I was able to turn off P013A/C and P0420/430 and it appears to remove this catalytic test and symptoms (offroad use in Mexico).

Engine mounts:


Traction bars:


Booooost:


Current setup:

 

Nice!

I just got my truck back from the shop that installed my IPT transmission too. I used VFTuner to reset the learned values before it went in. I also removed the 3rd gear lock-up that I had tuned (I suspect that may have been a contributing factor to the originals demise). For me there are some odd rough shifts, both up and down. Tomorrow I'm going to get it inside where it's level and double check the fluid level. If after that it's still doing it, I might reset the learned values again and then copy over the TRD S/C transmission tables to see if that takes care of things.

 

Heck yeah! My shop said their first test drive had a few rough shifts then they put it back on the lift and the fluid level dropped alot so they filled it back up then the retest the issue went away. Hopefully that is the same for you!

 

Awesome, that nice to hear! I'm going to hope for the same experience. I also need to add a quart or so of coolant as I think it burped out some air. I nearly forgot that I had them install a new starter as well, I swear that the new one sounds like it spins just a little bit faster. Additionally, they convinced me to let them put in a new rear main seal. I can't say that I've ever read of one needing replacement in these engines, but they were right there to do it, so . . .

 

That's great to hear! I'll do some engine mounts soon. Thanks for the write up.

 

Nice find! Mine does this as well, and you're right it looks exactly like a double-helix in the charts, I'll have to try this.

 

Badass! That's great information on the fluctuating rpms also. I randomly have that problem and had no idea what is causing it!

 

I love the IPT trans info. @snivilous , how did the truck with the IPT valve body only drive?

 

I did two trucks, a 2011 with some nasty fluid and a 2021. The 2011 shifted HARD into second, but otherwise was fine. The 2021 felt fine for the 1-2 shift. I think the shifts felt firmer and maybe a bit faster in general, though I wouldn't say a night and day difference---but I also don't have a good reference, the trucks were going from a stock supercharger to more boost, tuning, the valve body, etc. so it wasn't an apples to oranges comparison, and hard to know what exactly was from the valve body. I applied the TRD trans settings to them in the tune also.

Took maybe 2 hours to do, it's really easy and straightforward, but there's a lot of bolts and awkward with stuff trying to fall out of the trans while you lift the valve body.

 

I spoke with John at IPT concerning the 1-2 hard shifts. He said it's really subjective as each transmission responds differently to the valve body upgrade. My valve body was not harsh at all and just shifted rapidly and firmly throughout the gears. Downshift were the same.

 

This weekend has been bittersweet, I have traded my Tundra in. I love this truck, and I love Toyota in general. The reason being I want something that is four-wheel drive and can fit my whole family in. I also need it to be fun and cool enough for me to want to drive. This is my second Tundra and it has been amazing, but I think I pushed it too far for me not to worry about it being reliable.

I ended up with a 2023 F150 Super Snake.
This forum is great, I won't be joining a F150 forum, lol. Thank you guys for all of your help with the truck. Especially @ViktorG and @snivilous

 

Congratulations! No hard feelings.

 

That escalated quickly!

Congratulations!

We also went Ford a month ago, my Wife wanted a Bronco. I'm shocked how much I like it.

 

Damn! Congrats brother, pushed too far I feel this lol. It’s a sickness lol

 

It absolutely is, and I've had it for years, lol.

 

If I had to move from my tundra, I would have made a very similar decision

congrats!

 

Congrats on the new truck! I’d have loved to have the opportunity and spare cash to take that built motor out of that puppy. I’m curious how that trade in works with a truck that modified. Will the new owner even know what they have under the hood? I wonder if it just goes off to auction or what, I’m assuming you didn’t get any of the mod value back on it? Either way, be careful out there and stay aware of your preference for clothing and footwear from here on out!

 

I checked the fluid level this morning and nothing came out of the check plug, but what was strange was that I also opened the fill plug on the side and fluid came out of it. Either way, I quick pumped a quart into it and it began to come out the check plug too. I buttoned it up and headed out to put a few miles on it.

As far as behavior since picking it up, the 1-2 shift is now quite discernible, whereas before it was pretty much transparent.

2-4 has been pretty much the same as stock in terms of up and down shifting.

5th and 6th have been interesting. Yesterday the 4-5 shift hit pretty hard all the time; the 5-6 shift had this strange pause-rev-then-shift reminiscent of when someone driving a manual transmission gives it just a wee bit too much gas before releasing the clutch after the shift. This seemed to remain today on my first long test drive with some minor improvements with some of the shifts normalizing but some still being similar to yesterday depending on what your intended target speed was and how hard you would accelerate to attain it.

After the first sojourn out and about, I checked the fluid level again and about 1/2 quart came from the check plug before I sealed it up again. I didn't remove the fill plug this time. While waiting for the trans to cool down I made some changes to it's tuning by mostly going back to the TRD S/C tune, including FlexLock. About the only thing I left was 4th gear LockUp as there didn't seen to be any unusual behavior with 4th.

I took it out again and ran it up the pass. The posted speed there is 65 up a 6-7% grade, but there's also some construction where it drops to 45. I thought that this would be a good idea as there would be a lot of 4-5 and 5-6 up/down shifting and locking/unlocking of the converter. This seemed to be the right idea, things started a little rough, but quickly smoothed out and became very stock-like.

Once I returned to the valley, I tried things out on the 45mph side roads. The 5-6 hits/revs came back, but not quite as bad. They were also present when using highway entrance ramps where the goal speed was 65. It would accelerate though 3-4 just fine, but as I reached the posted speed and let up on the throttle and merged, the hit/rev behavior still occurred. But it did seem to be becoming slightly less pronounced.

I'm hoping that as I'm able to get more miles in in the last scenario, that the shifting will continue to improve as the TCU seems to be relearning. I didn't think that it would involve this amount of time/miles (about 300) after resetting Learned Values (which I've not done before). I didn't reset them again today as I mentioned earlier that I might, due to things seemingly getting better.

 

im sorry.
not sure what you mean by able to fit the whole fam unless you had a double cab or standard.
you should have just bought a crewmax 4x4