Oil leaking into intake valve ports

Hi, I just took off my intake manifold etc. To replace starter, saw some oil in the intake ports, aside from replacing the manifold gasket and cleaning the ports, any other advice/ recommendations? I have been complaining about the fuel economy(~11mpg per odo full tank check) and feeling like the acceleration is sluggish, is this likely the culprit?

 

You check your PCV?
How'd the throttle plate look?

 

Check air filter, Clean mass airflow sensor, bench clean the throttle body since it’s off the truck right now

 

I think some people were recommending cleaning or replacing the starter contacts?

 

Some oil is normal, no it’s not the culprit. EDIT: I just looked again on a large screen, that's definitely a lot of buildup but looks more like it was airborn and stuck to the intake. Time to check PCV. It's due every 30k miles if I recall.

11mpg can be normal for the V8/4WD trucks for mixed driving. It’s what I get on a good tank in my access cab V8/4WD 2006. I am lifted 2.5ish inches and running oversized tires that are almost double the weight of stock, but even when all-stock I was lucky to clear 13mpg mixed driving.

Tell us whether you’re lifted or not, or if you’re running anything other than stock tire size. Or if you’re running AT or MT tires.

Since this is a pre-VVTi, while you’re in there, you should replace the intake gaskets. You’ve been warned: only use Felpro or OEM here. Don’t make me tag the guy who replaced his intake gaskets three times already because several brands at the local parts store and/or RockAuto will blow out without warning. Rule of thumb: Aftermarket parts are shit quality since the mid/late 20-teens, so if you don’t want to do the job again, use OEM parts, OEM part quality hasn’t changed in the slightest.

Other things you could do, some with the knowledge that the intake valley is a common rodent nesting area, and you don’t want to be in here again any time soon:

• Wrap the wires in Genuine Honda Rodent Tape, their part number is 4019-2317
• Clean out the valley really well, and if there is a ground contact in there (I swear there is, for the starter, right?) clean the hell out of it and apply dielectric grease before reinstall.
• Consider replacing the starter if you have more than 150k-200k miles with a brand new Denso starter, which you can look up the p/n for at www.densoautoparts.com BUT do not buy it off one of the knockoff-prone stores like scAmazon or fleaBay.
• If not replacing starter, you may want to at least do contacts and brushes

As far as MPG improvements…

You don’t have anything stupid on the intake, like a K&N kit, do you? Or an oiled filter, or a more-restrictive air filter?

What spark plugs are in it (brand/part number), where’d you buy them, what’s the current state, how many miles on them?

Have you ever cleaned the MAF using CRC MAF Cleaner or similar MAF-specific cleaner? If yes, how long ago?

Have you ever cleaned the throttle body with CRC throttle-body cleaner or similar TB-specific cleaner? (Note: Never spray liquids directly into the throttle body, always saturate a rag then wipe out. Also, never wedge open or slam the throttle plate!)

Have you ever had to replace a coil pack? If yes, what brand did you use? Testing folks have done on here show the OEM throw a significantly hotter spark than aftermarket brands.

Might as well ask, since we’re looking into history:

When was the last time your timing belt was replaced? It’s due every 9yrs/90k miles, if it snaps, it can brick that engine.

Have you tested the fan clutch for proper operation?

Has the fuel filter ever been replaced, that you know of?

Are you using anything other than red or pink coolant? You should only use one of those two, ideally pink. Never mix coolant colors. And there is no such thing as “universal coolant”.

 

Valves , guides, 3/5 angle valve job, valve stem seals.

Sorry, mis-read. Remove valve cover, inspect camshafts for wear. Scope ports. Are you producing white smoke or consuming excessive oil?

 

Poor fuel economy on high mileage but stock setups is generally from a couple of things. More often than not though it's from running old O2 sensors. Replacing them every 100k miles or so is a good idea when MPGs fall. Some other obvious things are sparkplugs, dirty MAF and throttle body and old leaky injectors.

 

If Im interpreting his lost , it sounds like his head needs to go to machine shop. OP, take off valve covers, post photo of cams.

Could be a worn lobe, stuck lifter ( im guessing our motors use hydo lifters) . Im going to place my money and valve stem seal leakage. Based upon his comment on poor perdormance. I would do a full compression test or the /air compressor test to see if you can hear air getting by you intake valves during exhaust stroke. If any clarification is needed lmk. Or else its a pcv issue that im unaware of w our trucks. The FSM prob has a trouble shooting list for this

 

Nevermind I actually looked at pic. This looks like a PCV valve issue, ...inspect pcv valve, perform compression test to check piston rings. Just what I would do.

 

What loss? his MPGs? or the oil in the intake. Oil in the intake is likely from the PCV system. A catch can could mitigate that. The MPGs are in line with others depending on maintenance and setup.

 

Your right. I just read title and jumped to incorrect conclusion. I agree with your diag.

 

Typo, i meant *post not loss.