What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I was going to say that. Also Walbro said it's safe to run on the stock system.

 

Running smooth

New TRD Bro wheels, 34” Tires, hammered and trimmed pinch welds, new wheel bearings, fresh alignment new OEM brakes. Added 1/4” spacer to the front driver side, that along with the 1/2 rear leaf shim, I’m completed level left to right. I have 5100’s on second notch with 885’s.

(Headlights aren’t on, it’s the daytime running lights, they look super yellow).

 

I disabled my DTRLs by unplugging the harness between the fender and the battery.
Would be cool to figure out how to tap into that harness to make my amber demon eyes my DTRLs.

 

That would be cool, I miss the Amber Running Lights on my Tacoma.

 

Twins!!

 

What pods are you running for fog lights?

 

Let me get it all wrapped up and I will 100% post pics. Just the 1.75"-2.25" spring lift Dobs with Eibachs all around. Im assuming it will be closer to 2.25" due to RCLB weight. @shifty` do I I need SB Maxlinks w under 3" lift? Anyway these Eibachs better be good bc the stock KYB stuff is great street/mild work set-up. Just a hair to much nose dive during hard braking. But , very happy w stock KYB for its age.

 

Congrats on first brake job!

I would probably swap out deeply used pads for some fresh OEM to bed into new rotors using the 30/30/30 procedure. Here's the difference New pads will add in material depth.

IIRC 1st gens with the 13WL caliper originally have come with semi met pads (# 04465-35250) but now Toyota sells a ceramic pad that has gone through several part number revisions. Currently found that # 04465-AZ200 set of 4 pads are full width and not notched (reduced width) and only $35.10 during a Serra Toyota 25% off sale ($46.80 before 25% off). Or can consider Advics aftermarket.

Also next up before running the new rotors and brakes hard consider making sure the rears are adjusted correctly. Here's the thread on that.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/#post-2540029

 

So.e good looking pins you have there.

 

Thanks. Bought replacements and actually have a second set of new springs in the garage waiting to go on the bottom pins for +5hp (although FSM shows installation of only one set on top).

 

So read closer that you probably swapped on pads too and this photo must be the old pads and rusty edged rotors not the new ones. Must look awesome with a newly loaded caliper. Nice work. Looks like Powerstop has their own break in procedure.

 

Went to check front diffs on a Tacoma and a 4runner that dropped at the yard yesterday. The 4runner had massive front end damage and the Tacoma was built pretty well and on some big M/Ts so I thought the odds of matching the stock rear gears I have were slim. RockAuto did have cheaper gears and bearings available but the only matched front and rear ratio i saw in stock was 5.29. I'm not trying to do long highway trips with this Truck. Is 5.29 on 32's TOO low?

Alternatively, can I just find 2wd hubs and spindles and delete 4wd? I know, it's backwards.

 

5.29's and 32's only if you wanna drag race
Your top speed will be reduced and your highway mileage will suffer too.
But you'll be the fastest first gen off the line.

 

Baja Design SAE Squadrons. I swapped them out for non SAE Amber Lenses.

I modified and cut out a non fog light housing.

 

Noticed any shaking or anything while driving with those fogs on?

 

Surprisingly not even though all my bumper clips are loose, but they seem to be stable.

I used a spacer and bolted them into a preexisting are of the bumper. Then cut the factory plugs off and installed WeatherPac. They function with the factory switch. Only downside is they go off when you turn the high beam on. If I ever add a switch Pros I’ll wire them into a switch.

 

shouldn't be more complicated than two plugs, some wires/pins = a custom harness.

 

Catching up… you’re supposed to crack the bolt loose grease and then retighten.

 

Changed rear diff and transfer case oil on sequoia yesterday. 25k miles on the old oil and still looked really clean. Used Lucas synthetic for the rear (gallon) and Valvoline synthetic for the TC.

Will do the front diff when I do an oil change soon.

 

I'd shy away from the RockAuto gears and bearings personally. You'd be better off buying from a reputable gear supplier, then picking up one of their master install kits, or sourcing master install kit parts through the dealer. Might be able to rock 5.29s on 32s, but I think it'll be too low. 4.88 is the sweet spot on 32s-33s IMO.

To your other point, you can turn your 4WD spindles into 2WD spindles actually very easily. On 4WD trucks, the threaded stub (the tulip) on the outer CV joint is what holds the bearing in place. You can go to the parts store and get some cheap CV axles, cut the shaft off, then stick the inner tulips in the differential, then stick the outer tulips in the spindle and tighten the axle nut.

You can pull the shaft out of the inner CV joint, but the outer CV joint at the spindle will require you cut the retaining clips or shaft itself. The shaft at the outer CV joint is not otherwise easily removed.

Here's an example where I blew a CV axle and turned my truck into 2WD, before driving home 2000 miles.

 

I did that on my lunch brake. Also replaced 3 of the 4 bushing chyneseium zerks that broke off in the grease gun for some zink plated stainless steel ones here at work. I'm not sure what the squeak was I greased everything UCA ball joints, bushings, tire rod ends and even the sway bar linkages. But what ever it was ain't squeaking in the front anymore. Now it's just the leaf springs in the rear doing what they've always done. Lol, back to normal.

 

Should be able to do the anytime fog light mod and have them work independently with the factory switch I believe.

 

Things that have been replaced fighting the P0171 code: inline fuel filter, MAF/ MAP sensor, 02 sensor, tested and found no vacuum leaks, cleaned my entire throttle body, cleaned the PCV sensor/ valve, PCV hose and the PCV 90 on the throttle body.

Not sure if I posted this, but I bought this motherfucker as well. Tell me bank 1 to lean..... If that don't work I'll move the Denso 12 holes up to the next buy.

 

Does this pump fit in the OE Basket?

 

Walbro assured me it does. They said it's a direct plug and play. So I guess we will find out when I drop the fuel tank. Walbro in the past hasn't really done me wrong by any means. They have sent me the wrong fuel pump once tho when I did the 03 GLIs fuel system to keep up with the turbo I put on it. But aside from that they have been a ok for me. They also told me that it's safe to run and will not over pressurize the system.

 

Im a big fan of $0.00 fixes. This is exactly the info I was looking for, thanks. Is there any reason I shouldn't leave the diff out as well while i save up the cash to gear everything properly?

 

Yes, you can leave the front diff out, just pull the front drive shaft too.

 

When in doubt!

 

Correct, powerstop, HD pads, break in is:
-5 aggressives braking back to back 45-5 MPH
-5 Moderate braking 35-5MPH
-Cool for 5 min.

Dont come to full stop w front brakes until break in is completed. I drove it post break in last night in crazy rain storm. So far they perform great, quiet, strong braking. I might be crazy but it seems to have allowed the rear adjusters to work better, but, that could have been bc of me using e-brake during break-in procedure.