What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

That place is on my list for "someday"

 

This is the one I got after reading some threads on here for resetting the alcohol content. It does a lot more than I know how to do, I’m a newbie to these scan tools. But if I can reset alcohol, turn off seat belt buzzer and program keys, that’s probably all I’ll need it for. Possibly for the TPMS in the future but need to learn more about the process before I go digging too much.

 

Put about 1300 miles on it for a long weekend in ID/MT.

 

It was a productive weekend, to say the least. Finally mounted the Banks Pedal Monster that's been floating around for almost 3 years, along with the bass control knob that's been shoved between my seat and the console. After the stock HU fianlly puked on her shoes, I got the Pioneer 7600NEX installed and connected, which meant pulling the DSR1 out, running new RCAs to the JL amps in the back seat. Good times. Please let this be the last time I have to pull the rear seats...

 

@Desron23 - if you are interested in the FRAC harness, you need to act quickly (if you aren't already too late). They've sadly been discontinued and are a "while supplies last" deal.

Edit: You can search for FRAC and there is a link to a possible alternative, but I don't recall seeing/hearing about it except for one link.

 

Anytimebackupcamera has a kit that is for front and rear camera..

 

The only issue I had was getting access to the driver rear because the shock really blocked my ability to the two nuts easily. I ended up removing the rear wheel and I could access from over the top of the rear disc/hub.

 

I’ve been looking at the anytime backup, I think that’s probably the direction I head when I decide to do that one, the FRAC harnesses aren’t showing up on the site, just the switches now

I got my extra tailgate brake light mounted today and it was more complicated than I thought since the 7-pin and 4-pin hitch plugs are wired together. Still working on getting the reverse light working right…

 

That's what I got from TrailGridPro. Just got done installing it. Took me about 3 hours, tested, and everything worked. Then I snipped the purple wire. Damn. The printed instructions I had with me outside was superceded by an addendum on my desk. Purple wire clipping outputs AHD to the display. Which the OEM head unit does not support. FML.

From L to R: HD Style Camera, YotaLEDs Plate, RainMan-PNW Shim, Switch, rear camera, front camera

 

Working on cleaning up these 2.5x12” kings for the rear . Thanks again @reywcms

 

Towed in... Interesting night involving EMS and people. Thankfully not my fam and nothing life threatening. That said, I'm exhausted and ready for bed... But we are now watching the Olympics.

 

Got paid by Progressive today - the incessant searching for a replacement begins now! Thinking I want to find another low mileage CPO double cab

 

With that damage. I might just possibly pay to fix it after the check and run with a salvage title. May or not be applicable in your area.

That doesnt look like too much damage to repair, offset axle (new housing and leaves at worst, replacing broken parts (if not the pins in the housing) should be way chearper) Even the pins in the housing could prob be drilled and replaced for less than the price of a new axle.

The dent at the rear of the cab ((major body expense) could be visually repaired at nearly any fly by night shop, but structural, get a corner cut and welded from another wreck), fix that tiny back corner of the bed, thats almost not worth consideration (unless you are that appearance type guy).

Add a door, still at far less than the cost of a low mileage, late model, well cared for 2.5

Add Paint. Should still be well under what you are given for this 2.5.

Mostly, this is a "total" because of the cab damage. That rear axle is the next item, but if you can fix it yourself, it isnt bad to get it realigned, pending fixing broken pins.

 

I did think about it, but I turn wrenches on this shit all week long and I just don’t care to take on any more projects. I’d also have to pay the high salvage value of the truck insurance will get from the auction if I were to keep it. Happy to collect a check, wash my hands of it, and hopefully find another one before too long.

 

Having to do it all day changes stuff on that personal level.

 

Hell yea! Glad that worked they look good. I found that this

$21 BOESHIELD T-9 Rust & Corrosion Protection/Inhibitor and Waterproof Lubrication, 12 oz.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001447PEK also keeps them looking fresh while keeping shit off the surface.

 

What is you suspension setup in this picture i love the stance

 

Looks real nice!

 

L/S grab installed
Headlights polished
A/T Cooler kit purchased and assembly has begun
Gathering parts for AT drain n fill and oil change

 

Your air conditioner's air conditioner needs an air conditioner.

Good luck on the GCS install. Patience when running the hard lines and the rest is easy.

 

1. (Applause) cause TOOL.
2. That head unit support Android Auto? OEM Backup cam?

 

Clearly not the forum for this, but since it’s where we started, here goes. They just texted me this:

“Hi tony, this is what the technician discovered, obviously both tail lights are after market as we know. The problem is that your right rear tail light is dim it is drawing to much current and the fuses keep blowing due to how much current that it is drawing because of the aftermarket lights. Unfortunately to start, you would need to replace both tail lights to factory in order for that to stop. As far as the warning lights when the vehicle is attempting to start or when you can get it to start the vehicle is picking up on that there is a failure somewhere in the vehicle, the truck does not know that there is too much current drawing from the aftermarket lights which is why it is causing those lights to illuminate. Basically, to start you'd have to replace the tail lights and then we would have to see what else is going on because you could have more issues with the vehicle. We would not know until those lights are put back to factory oem lights. I am so sorry about this, I can give you a price on the lights if you'd like.”

My response:

“Hi Danielle. Seems logical. I knew it was nothing I added. Now, since I bought the truck from you in that configuration, and have Ive shown earlier, before this diagnosis, that your body tech had that same light out, how much of this expense will you assume? I would expect 100% as clearly none of it has to do with me, it's how I bought the truck.”

Them:

With parts and labor to remove and replace both tail light assemblies it would be 644.08 plus tax. I am sorry text is a little easier right now as we are pretty busy.

Me:

And my warranty? Ive had the truck for 7 months. You guys CPO'd it too, with those tail lights.

So this is where we stand. Waiting on a call from one of the bosses. I don’t think I should pay anything.

 

They can get bent on that $644 for tail lights. It's 2 screws and 3 bulb sockets on each side, and the lights are $120 each at most.

https://www.sparksparts.com/v-2021-toyota-tundra--trd-pro--5-7l-v8-gas/electrical--combination-lamps

 

@Tundra234 Thanks for the link, I may need it.

 

Did you check for blown fuses when you had the problem originally? I kind of have a hard time believing that too much draw on your tail lights would cause a non start condition, but I'm not a Toyota tech, just some guy on the internet. And I agree with @Tundra234 , $644.08+Tax is insane.

 

Over the weekend, finally got around to replacing the tailgate hinge since the bushing was completely gone. Sadly, the soft drop still doesn't work well as I have a Mountain Hatch tailgate, and the added weight it too much for the stock strut. I've got the RC kit on order to assist.

The lower bolt came out just fine, but the upper bolt took some persuasion...ultimately a dremel, induction heater and cold chisel did the trick.

 

@BreyTundy checked a few, yes, plus we tried to jump it even though the battery seemed to have about 12.5-12.8A. I’m trying to stay ahead of how they are going to try to f me next. I’ve got to pull my paperwork out when I get home.

 

Stand your ground on this one... you're not in the wrong here

 

Just got back it’s 100k mile blood work. Looking good.

 

Boy, these engines just don't wear! Those wear metal numbers are stupid low!