Alpine ILX-F511. Game Changer

Also, the cooler wasn’t removed until 2019

 

Thank you sir for that info. Because of my reverse camera issues, Trail Grid Pro is sending me another wiring harness...maybe, just maybe, I'll be able to access the trans temp info once I install the new one

 

I have intermittent rear camera issues…I’m not sure its not just a connection that needs reseated, but haven’t taken the time to pull the whole thing back out again.

i did not use the ODB connector from the maestro kit - it’s integrated directly into the main wiring in the newer trucks. It also requires going into the head unit settings under the maestro section and validating PIDS or something like that (can’t remember exactly).

 

Yes sir, that worked
I now have trans temp! I appreciate the tip

 

Did you have to take it out and check the connections or was it the ODB connector from the maestro that worked?

 

I did what Rainman suggested. I went into setup, went to the gauges area, hit settings button in the top right corner and find maestro and hunt around in there until you find “validate PIDs” tap on that and wait until it finishes….few seconds and you should be able to choose it in the “select gauges” tab

 

I have been so happy with my sound I never looked at the gauges until now, that and I do not drive it much. Got them all set up and the tranny is working. Thanks @RainMan_PNW!

 

This maybe an option. Do a master reset on your Maestro. Trailgrid pro sent me these instructions when I was troubleshooting the backup camera issues...it did not help that but maybe it would help your issue???

To perform a master reset for your Maestro through the Alpine head unit, please watch the second half of this video and follow the instructions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krWpmmkBBpI

Steps to begin reset process:

(1) Turn on your vehicles accessory power, or start the vehicle.
(2) Enable parking brake to access head unit setup menu.
(3) Navigate through your head unit setup menu:
Setup - Function - Factory Audio - Maestro Setup - Maestro Settings - Maestro Module - Maestro Master Reset - Are you sure? Yes
(4) Once the Reset is complete, turn your vehicle off for a few minutes, then power it back on.

 

Is this worth doing also?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/non-jbl-factory-amp-bypass.127437/#post-3253562

 

Do you already have the HU installed?
If in the process of doing so, yes.. bypass the OEM amplifier and power the speakers via the HU's amplifier.

 

Thanks for the info.. I'm dreading the removal of HU & RR to flash with the latest

 

I’ve done it so many times at this point I pulled the HU at the hotel parking lot in Moab chasing a rattle. You got it.

 

I pulled mine at T2S for shits n grins. It’s not bad once you’ve done it 1-50 times.

 

Interesting, because I'm definitely on a firmware older than 4.8 and still get the transmission temp to show on mine.

 

Not yet

 

I would definitely consider bypassing the OEM amplifier and powering the speakers via the head unit.

 

After a few weeks with the ILX-F511, I’m getting constant “vehicle approaching from behind” warnings with sound and screen prompts. Most of the time there isn’t even a vehicle behind me. How do I turn it off or calibrate it so it works correctly?

 

You must have the alpine dash cam installed. There is a setting in the dash cam setup menu to turn that off. I did that to mine as it became very annoying.

 

Yep, trying to figure out the settings. Seems like a worthless feature unless it needs to be calibrated. I didn’t initially install the rear cam for the dash cam until later. I noticed the “vehicle approaching from behind” before and after I installed the rear cam. It started happening more after installed, weird.

 

I don’t recall seeing anything about recalibration, but I could have overlooked that.

 

Going to circle back in this because I just dug in a like more…
The specific maestro you have, as well as the vehicle year and options you have (JBL, etc) determine the firmware version.
I have a maestro RR2, JBL, and a 2021, and for my setup the firmware version is 2.5… completely different than the “4.8” mentioned elsewhere.

 

Just wanted to add to this thread because it's pertinent.
I picked up the Alpine "Navigation" unit that plugs into this (KTX-NS01) to test it out.

the TL;DR - don't waste your time or money

The unit is essentially a headless android device with the iGo Navigation app installed on it (and nothing else). I'm not sure if the app is customized specific to the Alpine or not, or if there's any way to update it (there is a setting in setup to connect it to a hotspot). You plug it into the secondary USB port on the head unit, and it's a pretty good size device (nearly 3-1/2" long and 1-1/8" DIA). If your phone is connected to CarPlay when the unit boots up, you'll get a warning/error that you can't use the connected accessory while CarPlay is active - so know that you can't be using the two at the same time.

It is pretty slow to boot up and come online when the HU starts up - expect 60-120 seconds after starting the vehicle before the navigation icon shows on the HU screen. From there, you hit Navigation and THEN hit the iGo icon to actually launch Navigation. Typing in addresses requires you to enter a street name and then the address number...it's clunky and not nearly as intuitive as newer navigation systems. Graphics reminded me of a 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I had rented a few years back in HI when there were no newer cars available to rent.

Routing seemed fine (I tested it on my commute this morning), with the exception that it doesn't have any traffic information. The maps were as current as some recent road changes (less than a year) along my route. No traffic data for my commute is a non-starter though - I can have a +/- 20 minute difference in arrival time easily if I don't know where that morning's issues are.

A feature that is interesting is that it has an off-road mode that you can easily toggle in the interface that changes what is displayed (shows lat/long and compasss) and allows you to record a track. I wish I'd had the unit this past weekend while out in the woods on some old forest roads in MT, because I found that using Gaia in CarPlay wasn't working very well despite having the maps downloaded ahead of time (Gaia is flawless directly on the device). But it's not a feature that is worth losing access to CarPlay while driving...I'll just look for an app that has better CarPlay integration with downloaded offline off-road maps instead.

 

Do you have Gaia set to "Always" for location access? That's the only way I've found to get either Gaia or Onx to work correctly on the CarPlay display. Otherwise it kinda shits itself and looks like it's not moving on the map/other weird gremlins.

 

Just checked and it was not. I’ll test it again later.
One thing I wish Gaia would do is allow you to set up/choose a route while in CarPlay rather than having to create one in the main app and then pick from it in CarPlay.

 

If you’re on asphalt with any chance of cell signal - Waze has been awesome for me.

I bounce between Gaia and OnX for off road use.

 

If you’re ever concerned about weather - MyRadar now has a CarPlay supported version giving you up to date radar on your HU - I like it.

 

I've tried several times to get used to Waze and just can't do it. Google maps has been my go to for so long when it comes to on-road mapping.

 

I was pleasantly surprised when google maps called out “speed traps” all of them were spot on

 

Waze has sent me on some funky non-traditional routes - they’ve all worked great. I wasn’t aware Google added police notification - that helps even the playing field a little but Google maps has come up with some dumb suggestions for routes.

 

LOL.
I've had the opposite experience up here. Google's always been really good at giving me alternatives while Waze would route me through spots that I knew would be slower. Leaving my house, it would put me on a 5 mile detour from the most direct route to the freeway for no obvious reason. Just recently, Google added a much simpler version of the Waze reporting to CarPlay and shows the speed limit and your speed (again, like Waze). Those only show up if you are actively navigating though, so Waze is better there. But I prefer how Google shows the color on your ETA to help know if there's shit out ahead you're going to have to deal with.