General Supercharger Thread

What shift kit did you go with ?

 

Sonnax. From the video I have seen from IPT he used a combo of TransGo and Sonnax parts. I am sure I am not doing as much as he does to his VB but pretty close. The TransGo kit has valves that have to be drilled for the new one to fit. While I am confident I can do it, I prefer not to. Also the TransGo kit is used if you have certain trans codes, which that kit fix. I have only 43k on my trans and no codes so I stuck to the drop in kit.

 

It actually shifts real smooth. No harsh shift from 1-2 but moves smoothly and firmly through the gears. I only put about 25 miles on it to check for leaks and proper upshift and downshift. I was expecting to have a very firm 1-2 shift but it really transitions smooth and firm with no head snapping...haha
My old shift kit jerked from 2-3 and 3-4. This is a firm transition between the gears. It moves real nice!
Edit: I'll probably call on Monday to see if anything changed. As most say IPT's valve body's have a very firm 1-2 shift.

 

I believe someone mentioned it before and ITP had them do something to the VB, if memory serves.

 

I know you can up the pressure within the valve body as I did it before. I wanted to leave it normal but was hoping for a bit more zest. I'll take this shifting as maybe my mom will ride in my truck again...ha

 

Dude contacted me wanting a custom intake tube on his supercharged LX570, and he wanted a bit more flair than aluminum. We went with .060" 304 stainless to get some color out of it. I'm waiting on some stainless nipples to finish it off, and then depending on what dude wants I might hit it with the torch to color the tubing where it's still natural looking. This turned out absolutely awesome, I'll have a write up on the specifics once I get it mailed off in a couple days.

 

Ok,ok I'm listening and looking! Nicely done!

 

WOW I see how it is...

 

Well aluminum is lighter so you got some major weight saving there!

 

And why spend all that time and money on SS if he’s just gonna wrap it in gold foil..
?

 

Who's looking to upgrade their trans and doesn't want to wait!? Save some time and money and buy mine!

Completely refreshed and rebuild with ALL new parts, 0 miles by Pat at Level 10.

Pat at Level 10 gave it the full service "bullet proof" 1000whp package... "We upgrade your valve body to a high pressure valve body, we upgrade your torque converter to a high stall torque converter, high energy clutches, super pump. Some things that we cannot disclose for trade secret purposes."

Looking to sell the trans for $7500 shipped, trans core included (shipped yours to us). Tag or message me if interested. The trans is currently at Prospeed Autosports .

Thanks!

 

Okay my dumb ass question of the day! On the earlier supercharged trucks heard people would run in the 9's. On these trucks did folks have issues with washing oil from cylinder walls and rings scoring them? I know we have extremely tight ring clearances so it seems unlikely but I'm not exactly sure how tight of clearances they have. We all know fuel cools so more of a curiosity question.

 

I haven't heard anything with that issue but it is a possibility. The scoring I've heard about was from excessive wrist pin wear.

 

Not a dumb question at all.

I'm not even a super charger owner yet, but I think I can clear up the question.

Running rich vs running fat is 2 different things.

When running rich, the fuel is still in a vapor form. That unburnt fuel is more a burden to the cats than the cylinder walls. It's not breaking down the oil coating on the cylinder walls...much.

Running fat, is when you are introducing liquid gas into the compustion chamber. The liquid gas dissolves the oil coating on the cylinder walls, thus creating an environment of metal on metal. This is bad.

We do not want that ever.

 

I think the group needs a visual representation.

 

Thanks! Understood. At what A/F are we running fat? I've dipped down into the 8's, bogged down and thrown misfires, layoff throttle and glide. Also believe that's how I fried the driver cat. Although that was when I was first tuning the MAF and Injectors, and after blown cat/SPD downpipes replacement. Just wondering in these hot temps running a bit richer keep everything nice and cool, to a point.

 

Under WOT you don't wanna be under anything less then 10. Crusing normal i run 13.9 - 14.8

14.1 idle

 

I am ashamed of myself for laughing at that.

I'm scum.

 

I would call that pretty fat if it's misfiring from how rich it is below mid 9 or so I notice a significant power degradation. 10-11 is already quite rich by most engine standards, even if it's hot out I wouldn't intentionally go richer than that.

 

Just try and keep the top psi at 10.5 or so.
Any other engine or a built 5.7 I'd shoot for 11.5- low 12's for most power.
I've dipped to 9.3 with the water meth right after a shift or letting off. My bumper is blackened from keeping it rich but have been shooting for mid to high 10's.

 

Yes sir she was fat asf lol. Undrivable haha. Right now I tap in 9.7 to 10.8. I guess I should lean down low a little bit lol

 

Mines there too and I keep meaning to do a datalog and lean it out a bit, but it's so hot and.humid I just leave it alone for now.

 

someone selling a new maggie 2650 kit for 6k

 

Private FB group.

 

I requested to join. Wonder if that includes shipped because shipping those 2 boxes isn't cheap. Still cheaper than buying one right now though.

 

not sure if that includes shipping but he did say he would ship

 

is a boosted tundra page. join it

 

Asked to join.

 

It took me 12 days to get accepted... so hurry up and wait!