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Engine replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Arlott1, Jul 25, 2024.

  1. Jul 25, 2024 at 5:32 AM
    #1
    Arlott1

    Arlott1 [OP] New Member

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    Hello, can anyone direct me to a previous thread on a step-by-step for pulling an engine?

    I’m about to start a swap as my engine is seized. Also, any additional details on what’s involved specifically that it’s seized, as I won’t be able to turn the crank to access bolts… I may have to remove the transmission with it?

    thanks!

     
  2. Jul 25, 2024 at 6:02 AM
    #2
    JakeJake

    JakeJake Slippery Snake

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    Arlott,

    Welcome to the forum!

    The search function will help you find what you are looking for. Be warned that nobody is going to have a step by step for you, but the community here is more than happy to work on any specific questions that you have. Pictures help with questions and details.

    I would either:

    A. pull the heads and see if the engine rotates.

    B. Pull the engine/trans as a unit.

    Good luck and post pictures! We like pictures!
     
  3. Jul 25, 2024 at 6:59 AM
    #3
    Arlott1

    Arlott1 [OP] New Member

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    o_O
    thanks for the reply!

    I’m shocked that at this point, nobody would have a step-by-step of an engine being pulled out! That’s crazy considering how many people are on here and how long this forum has been around o_O

    I’ll do my best to document everything and maybe it will help someone else out in the future :)
     
  4. Jul 25, 2024 at 7:05 AM
    #4
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    That’s cause the 2UZ isn’t known for grenading. It’s a pretty rare occurrence. Agree with previous poster saying to pull the heads. Surely the crank isn’t locked up?
     
    bmf4069 and JakeJake like this.
  5. Jul 25, 2024 at 8:16 AM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` Earth acid cleanses me, cleanses me clean

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    (see signature for truck info)
    Lasat person I saw swap their engine due to "no compression" on a cylinder pulled his engine for a higher-mile engine, only to tear down the low-mile engine with the "no compression" to find the cause was a simple stuck valve, which could've been remediated without pulling the engine.

    Then he went to swap the new high-mile engine in, and had issues getting it running. Not long after, he disappeared from the forum.
     
  6. Jul 25, 2024 at 8:37 AM
    #6
    3bears

    3bears New Member

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    none yet
    havent checked but what about youtube
     
  7. Jul 25, 2024 at 9:21 AM
    #7
    ATBAV8

    ATBAV8 Mr. Bentley-He builds fast trucks.~Ettore Bugatti

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    Bilstein 5100s with OME 2884 springs, Firestone RideRite airbags.
    You may want to download copies of the Service Manuals, in case they ever go away. For you, the 2005-2006 FSM / in case others may want it, 2000-2003 FSM
    credit to @shifty`
    You also might want to purchase a Haynes Repair Manual.
     
    JasonC. and shifty` like this.
  8. Jul 25, 2024 at 2:05 PM
    #8
    JasonC.

    JasonC. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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    Was going to say exactly this. That Full Service Manual is a beast and will probably get you 90% of the way there.
     
    ATBAV8[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Jul 26, 2024 at 10:12 AM
    #9
    whodatschrome

    whodatschrome New Member

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    lots of dents
    Probably no one has a step by step documentation is that because it’s fairly simple to remove the engine? At least that’s my guess. I’ve had the engine in and out a few times on both my tundras. The engine bay has plenty of working room, so it’s pretty darn easy. FYI, the engine wire harness is designed in such a way that it stays attached (and therefore gets removed with) to the engine. It actually makes it pretty easy with that design. Take a read through my thread. I briefly cover my engine swap. You might be able to glean some pro tips from it..
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/tacoed-tundra-project.130491/
     

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