What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Lord know the trucks will out live us lol

 

NGL, I was eyeballing that RCLB yesterday pretty damn hard.

 

Not up here.

 

Speaking of weird idle. Ever since I cleaned my throttle body and PCV valve, hose and throttle body connector, the truck at cold start sits at like 1100 1200 rpm and then when put in gear drops to like 925 975 rpm. And it traffic at stop lites it goes to like 875 925 rpm after it's come up to op temp. Is that normal for it to cold start that high?

Is it just because it's now getting proper airflow through the PCV recess?

Or did I fuck something up?

And the P0171 code has not returned since I did that btw.

 

Normal. Toyota.likes for their engines to roar into life on startup. Especially cold starts. They idle higher at first to get the engine into operating temps sooner.

I always thought my 5vz Tacomas sounded waaay bigger than a 3.4L on cold starts haha.

 

I'm not sure on the pre-VVTi trucks, honestly. Could be a question for any of the other ealrier-year dudes. My truck is typically up around 1200 rpm at cold start and floats around 600-700 at normal operating temp.

 

Pretty much exactly the same for me. Maybe a little lower at a stop when warmed up. I have the same questions.

 

The only reason I ask is because I have read multiple RPM readings for all three on the internet. All of them for the OO to 03 non VVTI models. I fall with in the spectrum but on the higher end.

Could the fact I run 90 EFree gas have anything to do with it as well?

 

My rpms drop to 400 at a warm idle (or so the gauge indicates).

 

do you have headers? Noticed that runs a higher idle.

 

Factory manifolds. You told me to get headers last you were over. I laughed, you laughed, ass dog laughed, probably at me, we drank lots of beers

 

See that what and where mine were at before I cleaned said parts. But it always ran rough at that low. I would emplore you to pop your PCV 90 off your throttle body and look at the passage way to see if it looks like a car that hasn't had an oil change in 40,000 miles.

Then if it does pull the throttle body and clean it like your chonkie after a night with a 25 dolla taiwanese hooker.

 

I can’t get it off without cutting the ties to the wire harness above it for better leverage. I think the rubber there has hardened; I might try tomorrow when I drive out to see my folks.

 

Didnt remember if you had shorties. Which dont count. I've been wanting to learn the cruise to work in neutral.might add a knob to the throttle cable.

unplug the battery & reset. You know, turn it off, then turn it back on.

 

Yeah mines is going to need replaced as well, but it's on there and it's holding and working, so until I oder it, it'll be fine.

 

I've done the batter hard reset 2 times now in the last week and a half. It's changed nothing aside clear my DTS code cache. Which is nice cause P0171 has gone away

 

Not sure about the octane having an effect on it. I've been through all the things suggested... vac lines... expended a can of carb cleaner looking for manifold leaks, MAF, TPS, temp "Sensor" that feeds the ECM, edit: also new PCV. My guess was fuel related, as in over delivery by one or several injectors? Fully flushed and back flushed all of them though.... FuckifIknow at this point. It's not terrible for me.

 

I'm just trying to not have a self grenading engine or a run away engine is all

 

Right, and a lot of times with this truck I get to the point where I'm like... Do you really want to get in there and break something else, or possibly make it worse... or can you just live with something being slightly not right.
I suppose my BellCranks are an exception, but in my head I justified it by telling myself it was safety related for muh brakes. Cranks arrive early next week, all the way from AZ.

 

Pedal to the metal and the thing to the floor. Brakes, suspension, and tires are a little more important than everything else.

 

I thought that was only a diesel thing; the runaway.

 

Either bmw or audi had a throttleless gas engine. With fancy valve & injector control.

 

Mainly yes, but it can happen in petrol engines as well, it's just easier to stop. Removing air flow will almost always kill it in a petrol engine. Diesels are a bit harder to get to stop. You have to be good with killing your Turbo to save your block in a Diesel

 

Back when i was a lad, dad convinced me i want a toilet on top of a methanol engine & you dont have a throttle, but you flush it & hang on.

 

BMW

 

Lemonade stand to support California trip FUNds. 3 randos brought in from the signs, and the rest were friends and family. It was a good day

The boys made close to 250$ thank you friends and family!

 

Just a lil teaser. Im going to get some better pictures later when it cools off a little.

 

Nothing like the sweet projects and stuff ya'll are doing, but I carefully scraped/treated/and painted muh diff. Absolutely good enough for this Tundy.
Right before I touched the scraper on the cover I had a talk in my head about over doing shit... so just a light manual scraping.
89f, 53% humidity outside so that paint spread really nice for thick implement paint.
I'm happy with it, and it kept my mind off stressing on a property we just put an offer in on




I had already burned up my gallon of Gemplers converter.
Don't really care for this rust-oleum reformer... doesn't turn the dark black, but it was what the big box carries. $16 for that quart of black paint, highway robbery

 

Good paints never cheap sadly. Paint for the Tundra is 350 for just the main color with the primary base color it's 575. But that's down the road a ways

 

Any worries about breaking that fill plug or drain plug free?