No Nickname '24 Tundra

Cancelled my order for an Evil Mfg. rear bumper I had placed 14 weeks ago. I was stoked to have one coming but after what happened (and didn't), I opted to get my money back and move on. Anyway, that left me with a pair of S2 Pros on the workbench, so I decided to cut out some holes on the factory cover to get some use out of 'em until I figure out what I'm doing for the rear. I like how it turned out, so maybe I'll keep the truck in this form for a while.

 

The catch can install looks great. I'm thinking about doing something similar on mine. Where did you connect them on each side?

 

They're placed in-line of each vent hose on the intake.

 

Killer build! I was thinking about picking up those Mesa beadlocks for my Land Cruiser. Did you happen to weigh them?

 

Thank you. I kinda figured, but wanted to make sure. I like that better than running a single can off the PCV way in the back, which seems to be what some do. Your truck looks awesome BTW. Looks like you bought from Gresham Toyota? I recognize the Chevron station next door in your initial picture.

 

My factory plastic fuel tank "skid" is warping. Weird. But the new engine skid is quite a jewel.

On another note, something underneath the truck is binding up and emitting a loud and violent pop when I get the truck to flex with some speed and the wheels turned. Been chasing that for a while now and haven't found anything loose or broken. Gotta love the noise hunt!

 

Looks good! Raw aluminum? Rear sway bar end links didn't pop did they?

 

Thanks!

Raw aluminum indeed. As for the undercarriage pop, I investigated some more and found one of the billet upper links had a nut come completely loose. Torqued it back down to spec and all is good.

 

Did you remove your front sway bar?

 

I had machined wheels on a couple of the Supra’s . I used Zoopseal back then but they are no more. Now called Shineseal . I haven’t tried it under the new name but I can tell you the old Zoopseal kept the shine a long time with no rain stains and didn’t let brake dust contaminate the aluminum. Give it a try !

 

Yeah, been driving without a front sway bar for a while now.

 

Super nice build! I’m going the exact same route as you with more of a prerunner style build. I’m also on 37’s but went Fox for the suspension.

Now I’m stuck on a front bumper. I’d love a prerunner style tube front bumper with integrated skid plate. But I don’t think that’s possible with all the sensors. The best I can find now is the ADD bumper you have or a C4 Fab full hybrid bumper. The C4 is definitely not a prerunner bumper but it’s high clearance at least, just really heavy.

 

Thanks! There's already enough 3rd gens with tents of their roofs and not enough with full size spares taking up half the bed. lol Looking forward to seeing your truck's progress! Are you somewhere along the west coast?

Fox is excellent and, in a lot of ways, better than Kings right out of the box. If you plan on getting them tuned for your truck, it's just a matter of brand/color preference as both will perform great at that point. I've used both brands for extended and LT setups and have zero complaints with either. My next setup when I go LT might be Fox again.

I'm not entirely happy with the ADD bumper for a couple of reasons, but it is the cleanest and closest thing to a prerunner bumper there was at the time. Now, there have been a couple custom prerunner bumpers made by some fab shops in SoCal, but they aren't willing to ship and I'm not willing to drive down there...yet.

 

Here you go fellows, made by Outgear solutions. I’ve harassed them about mass producing it and was told it would be available in July.

 

That is exactly what I’m looking for! Thanks for the heads up.

 

Yes finally. I want to get this for my TRD Pro.

 

First rear diff oil change at 4,330 miles to switch to Amsoil. Found a couple thin shavings on the magnet but nothing that's going to get any reaction out of me. The rest of the sludge was just as expected.

 

Nickname it “The Grenade”

 

Catch can do-over. The Boomba kit was causing persistent error codes P2C90 and 91. After some investigating and tearing the parts down, I determined the kit was too restrictive, so I put together my own kit using universal cans with larger diameter fittings and hoses to test the theory. Zero issues or errors codes after several miles and trying to throw any error codes. I guess I'll keep these for now.

 

No idea how much oil since I haven't checked. I haven't had them on long, so i'll wait a couple thousand miles before checking. I don't expect much though.

 

Gold heat wrapping some charge pipes because it's cool (no pun intended).

 

Copy cat

 

Worked well for me during my low and fast days! Though, my taping sucked then. lol

And I'm pretty sure my Tundra is faster than the antiquated G37.

 

haha definitely is

 

Update: These suck. the lack of a bead roll on the lower pipe end causes these to pop off under boost. Happened to me twice now and I'm over it. I tried worm gear and T-bolt clamps and neither were up to the task of holding onto a smooth end. I took these off in record time and put the factory ones back on until my next set arrives. No issues. Yes, I could buy a bead roller but there's other things I don't like about the K&N anyway, so these are literally going into the trash.

Charge pipes in. Worth mentioning for anyone else considering these that there's no bead on the bottom section of the pipes that connect to the factory coupler. Already had the passenger side pop off while on the test drive and had to make a call to have someone bring me my tools so I can get it back on enough to limp home and tighten the crap out of the clamps. Hopefully now they hold tight under boost..

 

HPS charge pipes to replace the K&N pipes that kept popping off under boost without having bead rolled ends. Didn't want to roll them myself. I wasn't going to heat wrap these because it takes forever to cut and place all the thin strips around the corners, but here I am. No wrinkles or air gaps this time.

 

May be a stupid question, but how hard was it to wire all the lights? Did you do it by yourself? Did you have to run wiring to engine bay battery? I suck at anything electric.

 

I do my own wiring and make my own harnesses since the provided ones are usually too long and bulky. Having a good controller to control all your lights (sPOD, Switch-Pros, etc) makes it a lot easier and provides redundancies to avoid problems if things get screwed up. Most lights come with a premade harness that includes an in-line fuse, so the hardest part is routing the cables and keeping things tidy.

 

This one didn’t pop off on the test drive. PTSD from the last set, so having a hard time going WOT. Lol

 

What the heck came flying out of the exhaust?!?