What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

I have a slight shudder when the trans is cold and I slowly accelerate, as it’s about to shift into 3rd or 4th. Doesn’t do it if I accelerate quickly. Is that consistent with what you had?

 

I had something like that after a fluid change that was done improperly. A trip to the dealer for a good drain and fill solved it.

 

Y'all I need some advice/help.

So I used a 50 ton press, lubed up everything and my bushings are stuck.

During the install I first used an adapter and put it on the aluminum lip. It was 100% on there. All was going well and then the lip started to bend. You can see in the first photo where it bent and I bent it back into place.

I then removed the ring and just used a flat piece of metal. The bushing then started to flatten almost to the point of bursting.

The smaller bushings went in just fine, no issues.

So what do yall recommend for me to seat these all the way? Do yall think that the grease is taking up volume within the sleeve which prevents it from moving?

 

Will it come back out? If so you could take it out and freeze the bushing before install.

Long shot but do you have access to liquid nitrogen? Different application but have done liquid nitrogen bushing install before. Would want to try and apply the cold to bushing to get it to freeze at a faster rate.

 

We didn't try too hard with taking it out but I'm sure it can be done.

I don't have liquid nitrogen, but I could try using dry ice.

 

My initial shudder was at 25-30 mph; transmissions are pretty temperamental so flushing the fluid again might make it worse… you could pickup some Dr Tranny shudder stop and that probably will stop it

I’d probably pickup Lubeguard platinum instead and put that in, I’ve heard really good things about it including actually fixing the shudder instead of just preventing it (has additives to help the pads on the tc become unglazed) I’m gonna put it in mine when everything is back together

 

Just put the bushing and sleeve in the freezer for a couple days and then take it out and immediately press in, I would still lube it and use the cup to make sure it goes in straight

 

I would make sure the transmission is actually full also

 

Maybe warm the arm up a little while freezing the bushing.

 

Make sure that there aren't any impediments on the inside of the control arm eyelet, maybe give it a little polish with some emery paper as well as making certain the edges are clean.

 

Did a front brake job for the first time on the Tundra.

Akebono pads and Advics rotors from Rockauto.

Everything was pretty straight forward. Most difficult part was the learning curve during it for the first time. OEM pads and rotors had 83k on them and probably had another 3 to 5k left but just wanted to get em done.

Strange part and goes against everything I have learned over the past 50 plus years is with the Advics rotors there is a pamphlet telling you not to clean the rotors. With anything. Just put em on and do the brake in process. I followed it, we shall see.

Otherwise a great combo and great stopping power.

 

Alrighttttt so I used a wire wheel and 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth the inside. It's super smooth and the bushings have been chilling for about 12+ hours.

Later on today, when it not 100°F outside, I'm going to take them to Camp Pendleton to get them pressed in. I really hope this works. If it doesn't, then I'm screwed.

After the bushings are installed, I'm going to coat the LCAs with some POR15.

 

For future reference, every time you use sandpaper you remove material. There's a reason these fit tight, mechanically
expanding that opening is not a preferable solution. You'll be okay this time but for others, don't do that. Press fit is
for a reason, getting them lined in perfectly is important. Some heat to the outer assembly immediately prior to
pressing the bearing in is the only real option.

 

Yeah I should have asked yall about that before doing it.

I wasn't able to get to the press shop so I'll have to try later this week.

 

Whoever is there where the press is should be able to give you a bit of guidance. Usually the fit is so tight even
no room for lubrication. Patience.

 

Transmission Cooler:

90301-19020 // Oil Cooler O-Ring // Qty: 2
32971-34020 // Thermostat Transmission // Qty : 1

I got the lines and clamps from either Amazon or O'Rielly. Got the Trans Cooler (Hayden) from Amazon. I'll look more and find out what the PN is for the bolts... I've ordered too much shit from different Toyota Parts dealers so I'm having a hard time finding them right now.







EDIT: I love the Dirty Deedz Injectors! They definitely did not improve gas mileage... if anything, they've possibly created a negligible decrease in MPG's. But, I can say without a doubt that the truck does run more smoothly and power is there when I mash the pedal. For the price, I would say that it's a great upgrade!

 

Thank you for the info! I just pulled the valve body so if this goes back together and works the cooler is next

 

Got off my butt and finished installing USB ports on the center console for passengers in the back.

 

Holy mother of fuck balls. What a pain in the ass to install these bushings.

Here's what I did/used
1. Put them on dry ice for 24 hours (installed them as soon as I took them out)
2. Heated the LCA with a blow torch
3. Used a 50 ton press

While I pressed in, I heated the LCA again and banged on the outside with a hammer.

Even with alllll that bullshit, it still almost didn't go in. The aluminum lip was bending so I had to push on the entire bushing. The polyurethane bushing was flexing to its max.

If the sleeve/lip was steel, anything harder than aluminum, it would have 100% easier to install.

My Solid Offroad mounts came in today. Took about 6 weeks.

 

I don’t understand, you had new oem assembled lowers but you chose to press in different bushing? For why

 

That’s one of the many reasons we don’t swap bushings anymore at the shop, we just quote the customer for a new LCA, they save money on not paying labor time lol, glad it went together though!

 

Looks like to get some poly bushings on them instead of the regular oem bushings

 

Co-worker gave me a hard time about my third brake light not matching after rear taillights install.

So, I couldn't let him win and installed a tinted third brake light this morning. Matched pretty well actually. Bummer is when I took the old one off my housing screw holes crumbled, worn plastic.

 

I've seen the differences between OEM and SuperPro so I wanted to test them out. There seems to be less restrictive movement in the LCAs compared to the rubber ones.

Yeah we will see how they hold up.

I just went through the three step process of POR15. From the factory, there was already small surface rust. So hopefully this stops any additional rust from forming. I have the entire frame of the truck coated in POR15 and it seems to be holding up after 2 years.

 

Out with the old and in with the new. Had a radiator leak so I upgraded to a Mishimoto radiator. Also replaced my tailgate handle that broke.

 

What did the rad run?

 

https://www.mishimoto.com/performance-aluminum-radiator-toyota-tundra-2007.html

 

Do you monitor your temps? I'd be interested to know if the temp goes up, down or stays the same.

 

Finally got her back on her feet ( Sorry for 2.5 gen )