2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

Thanks. I've done in line coolers before but haven't looked into it on this truck. Idk if my light bars will get in the way back there. I have to start looking

 

It fits in front of the condenser and behind the hood latch frame work - hopefully not in conflict with lighting or wiring. Should be no problem for you with your experience.

 

Added an in-line series

$58 Hayden 679 Universal 11” Rapid-Cool Add-On Transmission Cooler to Enhance Cooling (not for direct replacement of the factory unit)

Hayden 679 transmission cooler to my
2016 Super Charged TRDOR AT Tacoma at 30K when I installed the Magnuson SC. It and the SC made 1000% difference in the truck. Has 75k on it now and I change the fluid every 30k.

 

I know this is off topic but I installed a deep pan on my 15 Tacoma.

 

@303Gen3, I'm considering adding a cooler. Have had good experience with prior tow /track cars with derale. From your experience is there room to fit a derale 51686 or 52580? 13" width, 2" depth is my concern. The Hyden 679 is 11" in height, should not be concern for these derale units.

Edit: looking further in the Hayden catalog, they offer the similar units as Derale in the "HD COOL" line.

--Thanks for your insight.

51686: (32K BTU)



52580: 46KBTU (may be too much)


Hayden HD COOL:

 

The 51686 is the same cooling btu as the 13402 I installed and I'd go bigger if and when I upgrade. The bottom support attachment location is 13 3/4 inches center to center. (Bolts where the front bumper cover attaches to the radiator housing frame - so the larger unit will fit. The 2 inch thickness is not an issue either. You need to take off the plastic radiator cap shield (4 plasic clips), lower the air damn (like you would for an oil change) to work behind the radiator and in front of the ac condenser. The passenger side air filter box is a press on and comes off just by lifting and rotating (fender air feed is a twist- lock in place). The bracket setup I listed a few pages back will work for the Derale - just have to do the usual fab measure thing. Put lower brackets on truck attachment points first, then side cooling unit in from below and attach to brackets. I attached the hoses to the cooler before placement and cut to length for fitment at oem intercept points.

Possibly the units you are considering (plate and fin) have better cooling capacity than the Stacked Plate type I used? I will be going the type you are considering as my next test. No tube and fin though.

Hope this helps.

 

Had a better look at the Hayden line as they claim to have a active bypass in the 696 to 699 models. Carefully reading adverts and then the patent, the bypass works off pressure (oil viscosity), not fluid temp. I have not researched ATF to understand the deltas in viscosity of different fluids as the chillers are universal, they bypass may open at different temps.

When I do get to adding a cooler, it will be a 52506 paired with a 13011 bypass that directs 100% flow to cooler at 180F. Go big or go home.

 

That bypass is awesome, specially for cold climates.

 

looks like the cooling btu's on the Derale unit you are planning to install are significantly more than the unit I installed - that should yield you noticeably cooler temps than what I am seeing. I'd like to see my highway temps sub 180 and tow temps mid 180's to 190. Keep us posted on install and results. The width mounting dimensions are the same as the unit I installed so if and when I decide to move to a larger unit the install should be easier.

 

More info-
13011 bypass starts opening at 165F, fully open at 180.
52506 cooler is made in Taiwan, assembled in California.

Another source of bypass is Improved racing. Greater than 2X the cost of 13011, can select the operating temp between 135F and 215F.
Improved does offer Setrab coolers, they are longer at 16". Made in Sweden.

 

Is this guy too big? It's the go to for GM trucks since 99 and it worked great for me on my 05.

https://www.oregonperformancetransmission.com/product/LNG-47391.html

 

Btu wise no. But the width dimension (22.75 inches) likely will not allow it to fit.

 

The Setrab is the brand the Gen2 maker (GCS) has been using
from what I recall - looks identical to the Derale - but more $.

 

@303Gen3 When you were running the hoses did you plug this into the low pressure or high pressure lines?

 

Low pressure return line - post 93 shows the oil flow direction - the interior line (closest to the driver side) is the return. There is a youtube post for a "2023 Tundra Transmission Cooler install" that shows the line I am referring to in the video. I did not remove the oem oil cooler/warmer. I simply routed the feed to the supplemental cooler from the oem connection (see post 93) to the new external cooler and routed the return line from it back to the oem return line that feeds the transmission.

 

The cooler the guy used in that vid is a knock off of the TruCool 40k I linked. BARELY fits

 

Damn thing fills up the entire front grill and the fan(s) don't look like they make the install any easier. I Wonder if he had to take the front end off to get it installed - That in and of itself is a PIA. One of the reasons I went the direction I did - which still lends itself to the 52506.

I'd still say the 52506 without a fan should yield the desired results. TruCool makes good products - if it fits and has a btu rating 45K and up I think it would be a winner. My 32K Derale 13402 unit is about 1/3 undersized IMO. I will know for sure in a few weeks - it will be the first tow trip with the 13402 installed and two mountain passes to go over - one over 11K feet. If the observed temps (via SGII) are in the low 190's I will say the 13402 is adequate. If they eclipse the mid 190's it will come out and be replaced with a larger unit. EDIT: 13402 removed and replaced with 52series unit.

 

I wouldnt do fans, imo. I think they overcomplicate things. If you look at the Amazon pics, most installs are on 99-07c GM's...they came with a dinky little cooler from the factory. Its a beast for sure

 

Hi everyone, I am new here and this is my first post. I have a 2024 Tundra Hybrid and I tow a 4250 pound (dry weight) camper. My guess is it weighs 5500 pounds with everything I bring! My first trip at the end of May in 72 degree temperature my Banks Gage read 226 degrees for transmission temp!! I have been following 303Gen3 and his disappointment with his 32,000 BTU Derale cooler. I decided to go with a 59,000 BTU Derale #53478 cooler.

My guess is because of the Hybrid motor I have 2 cooling fans in front of the AC condenser so I had to mount mine in front of the vertical support for the hood latch and relocate the inter-cooler line behind the hood latch support.


I wanted to use as many existing holes as possible when making the brackets to hold the cooler.



Here is the top view of the cooler installed. You can see where I utilized the grill mounting locations for my top brackets. Because my truck has just 3,000 miles I wanted to run the new cooler in series with the existing system. It took me a LONG time to figure out both the mounting location/size for the brackets and how to run the hoses back to the original setup.


I left for another camping trip yesterday and to my surprise and disappointment the Banks gauge maxed out at 210 degrees for transmission temperature! This was at highway speed traveling at 65 mph. It was between 75 - 89 degrees when on the highway for over 1.5 hours. I was expecting the temp with that large a cooler to be under 190 degrees in that temperature and the weight of the camper.

I followed the diagrams provided by user MaxPayne3 and believe I am hooked into the correct transmission line feeding back to the transmission after both the radiator and the warmer. The mechanic at the dealer told me the top front line leaving the transmission is the outlet oil going to the radiator. Maybe I am on the incorrect transmission line? I am cooling it then it is being heated by the radiator/warmer?

I do live in southern New England so we do get cold weather in the winter. I did not want to remove everything and just have the new cooler (especially with the miles on it). I also do not have access to a lift so I am trying to make the fix as easy on myself as possible.

I did use threaded connections to the cooler. My thought is to just keep the warmer in the circuit and put threaded connections on the hoses going to the bottom of the radiator. I would cap the lines after I drain the fluid out. This would require adding the fluid volume back in and removing it every fall/spring.

I am open for suggestions and sorry for the long post!

 

Curious what you find, that's a huge cooler. Rather than having to connect/disconnect seasonally, have you considered a bypass such as 13011?

 

@2024 Tundra

First of all thanks for the pics and report. Nice job on the mounting!

I'm surprised by the result, or lack of. Wondering if the product line simply does not cool as well as the btu rating indicates it should, or possibly a plate and fin type cooler would perform better in the mounting location we have. Without seeing pics of where you intercepted the oem return cooling line I can't say if you made it at the same location I did.

What are your general, non tow, temps? It would be good to know how they compare to mine. If the are higher I'd say your cooler, or intercept of the return line are suspect.

Keep us updated, and thanks again for posting.


@2024 Tundra
@mmasse

additional input: see posts 177 & 178

Cool return to the transmission is on the driver (interior) side closer to the center of the engine compartment. If you intercepted it on the far-right side and reroute to the hard (metal) connection the fluid is heated again before returning to the transmission. Thus oem temps and little to no cooling.

Connect the additional external cooler to the metal slip-on hard connection on the interior side. Then connect the return line from the new external cooler to the oem return HOSE that you disconnected from the metal slip connection.

 

I will add that on the Derale cooler in the fall.

To bring the oil temp down my thought is to bypass the oil going into the bottom of the radiator and only have it go through the puck/warmer/cooler. I cant think of a way to make this happen other than drain the oil out of the truck radiator and capping the lines that go into the radiator. These lines that were removed would then go into the puck/warmer/cooler.

My thought is the transmission oil goes into the radiator on the drivers side and exits into the puck/warmer/cooler then I pick up the oil and send it through the Derale cooler. I would have the oil come from the transmission directly into the puck/warmer/cooler. I would have to switch the lines around so the transmission oil goes into the puck/warmer/cooler on the side that it exited the radiator.

I am looking for other options??

 

I am borrowing an image used by MaxPayne3. I want to thank you for your valuable information on educating us!

I connected my cooler line to the line to the left of the black arrow.

We were suppose to leave to go camping Monday morning, but I did not have the truck finished yet!! I will pass along temps without towing when I get home.

A sidebar note, the truck engine oil reached 238 degrees on the Banks Gage.

 

@2024 Tundra

see posts 177 and 178.

 

@303Gen3 Based on post 171, this is the line to intercept - correct?
I have the hybrid with the fan partially where you mounted yours. Thanks to @2024 Tundra for providing images.

 

no. I intercepted it off the return side which is above and left of the puck. Not on the puck. Enlarged pic post #93 - the line left of the black arrow (aft flow direction) labeled #2. The labeled #2 line is the feed line - the one to the left (not labeled) is the return to the transmission and is the one you want to redirect to the new external cooler. Connect the new line from metal slip connection to the new external cooler, and then connect the new cooler return line back to the oem hose line you removed from the metal slip connection (use a splice connection).

If you come off the connection you note it will cause you to reroute the fluid cooled by the external cooler back into the puck, through the radiator and back out of the puck resulting in the fluid being heated back to oem temps. Catching it after it has gone through the puck/radiator and then through the new cooler allows the cooled fluid to go directly back to the transmission.

 

Thanks for making it clear.

 

YES! remove the oem hose at the upper connection hose clamp location to intercept and redirect/feed fluid to the new external cooler. Connect output from new external cooler with a splice connector to the end of the loose hose you pulled from the clamp location.

 

[QUOTE="303Gen3]

I am wondering if the leuver behind the grill is closing while we are driving? The lane departure warning is not supposed to work while in Tow Haul, but it was working for me so maybe the leuver is closing while driving and we don't know it? I unplugged it while driving around today and the truck was not happy.

Without the trailer I drive in Eco mode. Maybe the leuver is closing in that mode as well driving up temps?

 

Lane departure will work while towing but lane centering won't, it gets turned off when a trailer is detected.