General Supercharger Thread

Toyota on later models used the heavier dampner in the torque converters but some still have 2757 codes and shudder. I spoke with John about how disabling flex lock fixed my issue. I know I'm on borrowed time with my transmission and shod at least get a valve body. He laughs at my cheap valve body fix for firming up shifts and shift overlap. Caltracs are a nice addition.

 

What was your cheap valve body fix?

 

Back in 2013 or so a guy was selling aluminum accumulators for c2 b2 b3. Rods placed inside the springs that would limit them opening. Guess it was a thing for early muscle cars in 70's. It prevents the shifts from overlapping and causes the clutch packs to engage with no slip from 2-3-4. It's lasted this long but I think my transmission will need help soon.

 

Spoolin or some such, ya? I always wondered how that kit would work out long term. Seemed kinda odd to me but I was used to transgo kits for GM’s.

 

Yup. Chris spoolin...I kept forgetting to remove it but it has lasted and probably prolonged my trans as I'm not nice to it.
Definitely an IPT valve body at a minimum for the supercharger turbo crowd.

 

Yeah I fear I'm staring down the barrel of a new transmission at some point. Level10 might be my move in a year or two depending how the transmission does over the next 10-20k miles.

 

Well...F&$(!
Tried removing my crank pulley to install my XAT ATI Damper, outer pulley and rubber came off, inner pulley still firmly attached to the crankshaft...seemed to be going well until I saw the shiny inner pulley and knew I was boned, so I just committed and pulled it off. Too hot and frustrated, wanted to share my grief...

 

I am biased and like how ipt does some extra machining to squeeze in additional clutch plates. But a built trans is the way to go regardless of the company.

 

Posting here as well in case some of you didn't see the quick test results in the turbo thread.

Ok, just did a back-to-back about 15 min cycle; back roads, then through town and then onto the highway. If anything, the results are skewed against the vent being open, since the first cycle I did with the vent blocked, and then went right out again with the vent open. I am sure the delta would be wider if I let the truck cool to the same starting temps. The first part of the drive is slow going, about 30-40 MPH and a lot of on/off throttle, so those were higher than the first run, as to be expected without the proper airflow to scrub the residual heat. The second portion, sitting at lights through town was about the same +/- a degree or 2, ambient had gone from 68* to 72* as the sun comes over the trees and mountains and starts to heat things up. The biggest benefit was getting onto the highway, peak temps at the top of a 2nd to 3rd gear run, 35 MPH to 80MPH were 6* cooler with the open vent. From peak it dropped 62* in about 10 seconds, whereas the blocked vent dropped only 56* in the same 10 seconds. The open vent continued to cool things down and scrubbed 73* in 30 seconds and was 11* cooler than the blocked vent, which only scrubbed 66* in the same 30 seconds. Further as I put it in cruise at 70MPH, the open vent was 15* cooler at speed, low load. The last leg is a mile long hill and the shop is at the top of the hill. The open vent was 10* cooler up that hill. Again, I think the #s would favor the open vent more if I waited to let the truck cool between runs. Next step is to add a few spacers to the hood mount (this will somewhat mimic a true hood vent) and see if that scrubs more heat. But I stand by the comment above, for a FREE 60min mod. It's worth it!

 

Oh man! Even with holding the inner crank!
I have 2 extra crank pulleys. I can send one out to you to you priority. Message me and will send out if needed.

 

The puller I was using only held the outer, so they separated. Appreciate it, but I'm good, I just need to finish the uninstall so I can install the ATI damper.

 

Big yikes. Hate to see it. It’s always the “should be an easy install” projects that end up taking the longest and being the most frustrating.

 

See I’ve heard that the IPT valve body causes some pretty hard shifting in all gears and the level10 is quick and smooth for a daily driver (and it doesn’t hurt that level10 is 2k cheaper if you’re sending your trans in). I guess it’s all about preference really, a built trans should get the job done. Just want a nice combination of being able to handle power and good for daily driving

 

I used to 2 pieces of 1x3/16 steel to hold the inner crank. Holds up to torquing the crank down too. I have a pic on here somewhere in the back pages...

 

Yeah...even my shift kit mod gives hard shifts from 2-4. Can become irritating.

 

Got a question for those who have a similar experience. My passenger cam tower is leaking/seeping, accumulates to a drop of oil on one of the ears above the exhaust. I wipe it off and generally it comes back and I repeat that process. Never seems to build up and drip on the manifolds and or is not measurable during oil checks/changes.

So, should I consider getting my passenger cam tower leak repaired prior to a SC install?

Has anyone experienced an increase in leaking/seeping, not a concern or not directly related to extra head/cylinder pressures generated by a SC?

Thanks guys!

 

@Mdl I saw this post, but I already got the bolt off, so now I just have the inner pulley stuck on the crank...I think I'm going to need to take my intercooler and condenser off to get at it, not enough room...simple project snowballing out of control...as usual

 

Don't quote me... but sounds like a non issue to me. Mine have been leaking since 50k miles. I have 170 on the truck now, 7 of that being with the blower. I have zero plans to address it. Slight smell if you're running the truck hard for extended periods but not noticeable other that than. Address it if you're losing sleep over it... but I would just keep an eye on it ever oil change

 

What made you go with the XAT ATI damper rather than RR Racing? I'm sure both are better than OE, but I wonder why the ATI is 3x the price. Maybe I should just call XAT.

 

ATI has been in the industry for ages, and I think I bought my pulley before RR Racing had an offering for the Tundra. It's been sitting on the shelf for a while. XAT's version has an upgrade option for a 7" pulley when I build my engine.

 

Just throwing this out as a thought experiment.

Stillen makes a ram air intake for the tundra, and has stated they are willing to sell the front ram air portion separate from the rest of the intake kit. Is there any room with the turbo kit to mock the front air inlet portion up to have it directed to the turbo area?

 

Good point on the upgrade when it comes time to build the engine. Decisions, decisions..

Let us know how the process goes for grinding down the factory washer. Hopefully easy peasy.

 

I notched my lower shroud so a 3/4 torque wrench squeezes in there. Helps with belt swaps to. It broke on me so I thought to cut a notch so no issues. This is 24 inches long to hit the floor with my lift so I can torque the crank pulley. 7 inch crank is nice! My Asp crank only made it up to 6.7 and don't like the prospeed offering!

 

Good question, we are a Stillen dealer, love those guys! I think it would eventually hit the filter, but may be able to be cut and expanded for more flow right before the filter. I'll reach out to our rep!

 

I ordered this to see if it will help me get the inner pulley off the crankshaft, it should work better than the 3-jaw puller I was using. I'll probably just cut a couple inches off the forcing screw, instead of moving the condenser.

$87 OTC (522) Large Gear and Pulley Puller

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQKJB0?ie=UTF8

 

I've always just used the bolts to evenly press it off.

 

I’ve got the RR racing unit in mine but as mentioned anything is better than the stock unit. Free hp

 

Thread the bolts through the pulley and push against the timing cover to push the pulley off?

 

Yes. I've always done it that way. Never an issue.
Edit...if I encounter too much resistance I will use a puller but I never have. Evenly turn each bolt to get the crank pulley off.

 

Man...you got goodies hidden all over!