Issues after oil change.

My instinct is to say you fucked up somewhere along the line of putting in seafoam and then doing your oil change since the truck was apparently running fine before this was done.
Maybe the seafoam has dissolved or dislodged something into the rest of the oil causing your issue. Or it's something else. Something I've learned while working on my own truck is that random unrelated shit can pop up and go wrong and cause a brand new issue right after doing something yet unrelated. Counterintuitively a new problem popping up is not necessarily related to the job you might've literally just done. Frustrating for sure.
Check that you don't have obstruction at the cold air intake. Maybe perform another oil change for redundancy just to ensure it's all good in that department and not some sort of oil change human error? Barring that, like shifty said upstream O2 sensor faulty, bad fuel, seafoam solvents somehow messed with the fuel pump, something fell into the oil fill hole while doing the oil change? I know this sounds dumb but also that battery looks old as hell, could it be a power source issue? Also, you didn't put the seafoam in your spark plug holes did you?

 

To this point, I remember that one dude a couple years back whose truck was running stupid, and he noticed mouse droppings while investigating, and when he popped the lid on his air intake, he found rodents had torn up the air filter, and then found a piece of air filter lodged right at the MAF sensor.

Doesn't look like that'd be a thing with OP, he has a K&N hot air intake. Although oil from K&N oiled filters has been known to coat MAF sensors and lead to early demise in vehicles.

 

Could it be a motor mount that failed?

 

While I was out hiking with the oldest, I thought back on this and remembered something you said.

I'm pretty sure the owner's manual calls for iridium plugs, not copper, on the VVTi ('05-'06) V8 engines. Specifically these NGK/Denso plugs, part number here. Is it possible you used the wrong plugs?:

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They were done last summer - would it take this long to show an issue?

 

No clue, but I also know there's no way in hell Seafoam would've produced results that fast either. The issue sounds more of ignition/detonation to me.

 

Copper plugs do tend to burn out pretty fast when put on a DIS vehicle.

 

Couple things...

did you pull the throttle body off to clean it, or just spray the cleaner around/in the flange? like, directly sprayed the TB with the cleaner or sprayed the cleaner on a rag/toothbrush/whatever you used?

I know there are warnings out there regarding directly spraying the TB, because (IIRC) you can accidentally spray into the TPS and/or the throttle body motor...well, you don't have that part cuz you're an 05 drive by wire, but I'm assuming that the TPS is inside that black plastic on the TB...

I think if you stick to the basics of fuel, air, spark, you'll find the culprit. Maybe start with a new MAF altogether?

 

It's an oilless kn filter. I wish it had the oem box. The filter is 6 months old.

Model ‎RU-3102HBK

 

Thanks I pulled it off and scrubbed it clean.

 

I just checked the reciept for the plugs sorry I'm doing a 250 mile costco run right now in the daily driver

Set (8pcs) Denso Iridium Long Life Spark Plugs Stock 3297 Iridium Core .043"(1.1mm) Gap Size

 

Looks like the first step is to replace upstream o2 and see how it does. I'll have to look up and order one tonight.

 

I am curious how seafoam could theoretically damage a fuel pump.

 

If it’s shaking back and forth that much, it must be misfiring. That should produce a code. P0300 and a P030x for whichever cylinder is misfiring.

 

Exactly my line of thinking also. But with new coils and plugs, the only thing that I can think would cause that would be bad info from one of the upstream O2, a failed plug, or bad A/F ratio (most common bits).

It wouldn't. Worst case, you'd find it was caused by something stupid like THIS. That was one of my favorite cases, loose fuel pump pickup tube. And IIRC, it happened TWICE!

But the problem started BEFORE you did this, not after, right?

 

Yeah the problem was before the cleaning of the MAF and TB with no change after. I canceled my appointment for the canopy window until the issue is solved. I don't feel comfortable doing a 6 hr round trip. Gonna find somewhere to bring it tomorrow. Gotta call around.

I might order the 02 sensor and a new maf tonight tho. We'll see. I've been busy with other bs as well.

 

So do I only purchase 1 single upstream 02 sensor and the MAF or is there anything else I should add to this order? Denso okay? Or should I go toyota. I'll literally replace all spark plugs again too with only 4,000 miles on them if needed. Just want the thing to run right. Will the new sensor communicate with the older one fine? Not sure how many there are.

 

www.densoautoparts.com

Plug your truck into Denso's part finder directly.

Note, the oxy sensors upstream for your truck are called "a/f ratio sensors". They're identical left and right. I'm highlighting the three important things here (other than sometimes they'll list "RWD" or "4WD", but not in this case): 2 are needed for this part, i.e. they're identical on both banks. This is the upstream sensor. This is the DIRECT FIT sensor, meaning it's not universal, thus no wire cuts are required. Those are the three (or four) big things to watch out for.

Always look up your part with Denso first, THEN go shopping elsewhere. In this case, here's your part number. You could technically get away with ordering one, and swap it between sides as a known-good. I typically like to order upstream/downstream at the same time (on each bank) when one goes bad, if you know it's doing bad.

 

Oh and downstream, in case you need that info, since I got the page loaded already.

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Thank you. I'm gonna order these 4 sensors and possibly get a new battery just to do it.

 

Before you start replacing, two things:

• In the days leading up, it's worth hitting the sensors w/anti-size (PB Blaster, Kroil)
• Before you get started with the work on day-of, pull the negative battery terminal while you work; this will force-reset the ECU to receive the new sensors, and avoid spark risks

I really should do the same as you with my truck. I had one sensor drop about 11k miles ago, and I didn't do both (shame on me) for that bank like I should've. It just seemed like such a freak thing, that one sensor going out at 66,666 miles. (not really, I think it was actually at 66,566 miles but that's not near as cool)

I should've just proactively replaced all four of the damn things, so they'll last another 15 years.

 

Did you inspect the spark plugs yet? I know they're relatively new, but maybe one is cracked or backing out. Might be a good idea to see how they look and smell, too.

Edit: the 1st o2 sensor (near the manifold) on the passenger side is a real mfer. Go at it from the top, reaching behind the engine.

 

When looking at a new maf there are two different styles for the same exact part number. Hitachi and Denso. Looks like I have the Hitachi square style. Does it matter which one I get? Both are $140

 

Will take them to a shop honestly. Don't have the tolerance for that bs right now.

I haven't looked at them since installing them. I can tomorrow. They only have 4k on em.

 

Worth checking all of the vacuum lines. A vacuum leak will produce a rough and/or inconsistent idle.

 

Yeah I've poured over them. Not even a hairline crack as far as i can find. Isn't there something that can get clogged on them like a valve? I thought I read there was somewhere.

 

Hitachi is oem, I believe.

 

Just making sure you guys didn't think one or the other was better. It says toyota and the same part number on both.

 

I'm also gonna change the oil and filter again tomorrow. And probably buy a battery.

Check list so far
4 new o2 sensors
New maf
New Battery
Another oil change with another oem filter no seafoam this time lol

Boutta be 1000 bucks.

Wonder if I can do some sort of smoke test for a vac leak test. If it's something of that nature I can keep the ordered parts for a later date.

Also everyone keeps saying it should be throwing codes. Is it possible something was done to the ecu where throwing codes would be shut off? You can easily do that in tune ecu on my motorcycle.


Wondering if something like this reddit thread could be a possibility on a 2005 with only 141k. Low milage meaning it sat more often then was being used.

 

Can you watch live data? Do any misfires occur when the issue happens? You are actually running slightly rich by the negative long term fuel trims. -7.81 & -3.91. The ECM is negative to pull fuel away. Within normal limit for the most part. Also the A/F sensors are @ 3.25v indicating rich exhaust. The O2's out back are trending lean @ .27v & .18v but that could very well be the instant the data was saved the cats are doing their thing. I'd be hesitant to throw a handful of sensors at it. It would be like four headlight bulbs going out at once. Nothing in the data says the injectors are suspicious or the fuel pump is weak. Dirty/clogged injectors or a low volume/pressure fuel pump don't make an engine run slightly rich. Once again. We are looking at a snapshot of one instant in time when the issue is not occurring. (I'm assuming this is not right when it is acting up. 675 RPM 0 MPH). No misfire codes stored. Hard to fault the plugs or coils. Yet. Typically a skewed MAF under reports air flow and makes you lean. Unless the air tube would be loose or, in the case of the OE plastic rubber one, would open a split or loose tube and suck in unreported air. Just some thing I see at first glance.