If you're a Gen 3 owner, what do you do?

If the level of panic in your posts is directly related to the pricing of 3rd Gens going forward, I can write a check.

 

Who cares if she had anything new to say, was she hot? Wait, you don't strike me as the type of guy that cared about hot chicks because if you did, who cares what she was saying in college.

Are you sure you don't need pictures like @BoulderGT3 ? Some of you Kool-Aid guys are l little slow, so I have to ask.

 

Clearly you typing so much isn’t helping. Can you point to the place on the doll where he hurt you?

 

I don’t agree with you on much but I do have to agree that the 3rd Gen Tundra and Sequoia are both let downs. Even not accounting for this recall debacle.

I waited a long time for a new Tundra and the disappointment I have hasn’t changed. Particularly after test driving a Sequoia. That’s OK though, it’s just a vehicle. I will keep driving what I’ve got, or find something else.

 

No, they simply taught us to quickly jerk off as time was not an ally back then. Balls did not have time for any attention.

I am glad you're pretty sure me and my family won't die. Although, that sounds like something Mr. Toyoda would say, right after his certification testing results speech.

Seriously, I am trying to sell and trade. I anticipate not being on here much longer. Then, all of you Koo-Aid drinkers can go back to your false sense of security comfort zones until BAM, your engine blows and your only stranded, not killed trying to get over in the 75+mph traffic. Then the fun really begins. And wait a second, don't tell me you were going to paint my orangutan shit orange color that contractor white like yours, were you? Ugh, so glad I didn't sell it to you.

 

I'm currently in option 6, be VERY AFRAID.

 

Your Ford?

 

Same.

 

Nah I’d leave it poo colored. Don’t be bad mouthing my mostly white truck, she’s loyal, and has fully intact main bearings. Unlike yours.

Best trade me strait across or you’ll end up getting killed in the streets!

 

AS MY LATE UNCLE WOULD SAY "DRIVE IT, LIKE YOU STOLE IT"

no worries on my end

 

Damn, I do like two tone trucks…just not white/rust. Good point on the bearing though.

And do you mean getting killed by out of control fresh engine failure 3rd gens? Certainly a possibility but I will be on the lookout.

 

Dang, I guess I didn't miss much.

 

Two tone? Nah bro. Primer too where paint has flaked off.

In 3 more years she’s a classic and it’s called patina, adds value. Get it while you can before prices go up!

 

LOL @24_SR, wish in one hand and shit in the other, see which one fills up faster.

I’m driving a truck with 5.7L 3UR-Fucking Excellent, so highly unlikely it does anything aside from punish dead dinosaurs in the hell of fiery internal combustion at an alarming rate, and have a few other well known minor issues arise.

 

I was responding to your post hoping my truck would spin a bearing or otherwise blow up. Nice ninja edit.

 

You tagged me in there too on that first one.

 

Seriously either a mod is deleting your posts and the ban hammer is incoming or you are. Either way say what you mean and stand by it or don’t.

 

I’ll just start screen shotting his posts to add as an attachment.

Seems pretty clear someone is cruising for a timeout.

 

I think you mean 3UltraReliable-ForEver.

 

Fixed it for ya.

 

oh yay 19 more pages of e-peen measuring contests to sift through to see if anything of substance was posted.

 

Agreed. That’s like the logic of saying that lots of people got in accidents with Pintos, or Chevy trucks with the side saddle gas tanks, and didn’t have them explode, so you’re overreacting. Now to be clear, the Tundra defect is not the same thing as a gas tank explosion or fire - that’s NOT what I’m saying. But the point is, from what the EVIDENCE is telling us, EVERY 3rd gen Tundra is a potential failure. Hybrid or not. Regardless of the model year or build date. Whether you have 179 miles or 60k+. And I say that because plenty of trucks not included in the recall are failing, including hybrids, ‘24s, and trucks already with replacement short blocks. So until Toyota provides a more plausible reason for why these are failing and why they think most won’t, this is the conclusion an analytical person will come to. To ignore the evidence is blind foolishness. If you don’t want to, then please do it silently and don’t criticize those that are concerned about their $70k expenditure. There are plenty of other threads you can contribute to.

 

I think it was directed at me not you. Your bearings are safe.
I'm still hurt and find it mean and not nice to wish bearing harm.

 

Nah I was specifically tagged in one of his supposed posts where he blacked out and his account got hacked.

 

I know this will be super unpopular, as not much of a tower, I wonder how much would be lost if there was some tuning to make less stress on the engine. For us the crewmax just meant more for us than a Taco, with family size, and a 4 year old that is in 90 something percentile of height etc. But I dont haul a ton. So personally I could be ok with that if it meant way less worry, though I know that would suck for those of you who tow with it a lot.

 

To reduce power, don't mat the skinny pedal.
I'm confident there is a subset of Gen3 owners who live near rated power, majority are not. I tow 7k once a month, don't recall a time I needed to use max power - yet want it there for when I do need it.

 

Bullshit.

 

FFS, please hurry.

 

How is reducing power going to solve the issue of hard steel or aluminum particles being embedded in a main bearing acting as an abrasive material between a spinning crankshaft journal and the bearing surface?

The crankshaft is hardened forged steel, it’s not going to give as much. The particles in question are clearly fairly hard machining chips that I suspect were left over in the crankshaft oiling passages by the supplier of the crankshaft itself, hence the consistent failure location. If that is the case we’re looking at hard steel shavings that are much harder and tougher than the bearing, and they’ll absolutely embed in the bearing shell. If that crank is spinning it’s getting damaged and the bearing is getting damaged even more since it’s softer material as additional particles are made from that cutting and friction. Turn it by hand if you want to, it will just take longer to achieve a similar result.

 

It's not. My comment was directed at a prior post. Realistically, max power is rarely used for *most* applications. Changing the max parameters in the engine/transmission calibration will not make any difference other than when you really need it that 0.1% of the time. Ok, some will be 1%.