Trust Oil Change Shops?

I used to change my own oil, but at 62, decided to start paying to have it done. While traveling cross-country from Florida to Washington and in Spring Branch, Texas, I had the oil changed at a Valvoline oil change shop. My '07 has 257k on her and very few issues. They guys said that the stock plastic oil change cap/covers are prone to shearing off the tabs when oil change guys (like these guys?) over tighten them. My was fine as I had them show it to me. They showed me a Toyota brand aluminum cap/cover. I said, "Sure, go ahead and replace the plastic one." They filled her up with 5w20 Mobil1 and a new filter and off I went. After 568 miles north to Wichita, when I pulled up to the toll booth to get a ticket and rolled down the window, I heard a tapping sound. Not quite as loud as I've heard other engines with a bad rod, but like valve tapping noise. I immediately pulled over. Looking under the truck, there was oil covering everything back to the back. My son said, "Oh yeah, Dad, I was wondering what that oil was on the Airstream and on the back of the truck yesterday." Thanks, son...

We removed the skid plate and there was oil all around the "new" aluminum filter cap/cover and housing. And no oil reading on the dipstick. I called Good Sam and they towed my truck to Wichita while my son's friend retrieved the Airstream. Tomorrow, we'll look again and see if we can see why it leaked and where exactly it leaked from. It wasn't over full after the oil change. I saw no oil lights come on the dash, and I don't want to start it until I investigate further, so I don't know if one came on and I just didn't see it with the sunlight glare coming through my driver's window or if it never came on. I had no warning that I can tell until I rolled down the window at the ticket booth. There was no tapping sound when we left this morning. So, we drove 126 miles with no tapping sound until I heard the noise.

I'm praying that no permanent engine damage was done and that we'll be able to rectify how/why it was leaking. Fill it with oil, and it will be fine. Worst case scenario, I damaged my engine and that's a whole other ballgame.

Anyone else had any issues with the aluminum oil filter cap? Any leaking from there? Any issues with having some yahoos change your oil and forget to tighten the drain plug or oil filter properly? Dang it, I was hoping to get another 743k out of my '07.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/jiffy-lube-drained-transmission-pan-and-overfilled-oil.138436/

not same scenario but just one story of thousands

 

Didn't read big post.

Answer to title: NO.

 

Another 5.7 oil filter cartridge thread.. | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

Oil Filter housing, metal strainer supposed to be there? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Could be a few things, but my guess is that they put the rubber O-ring on the wrong groove on the new aluminum cap.

 

I could never trust one of those places man. They really have shit for brains. I barely trust the dealerships service shops and I always check their work.

 

Any update on what happened Trace?

 

Those oil change places do make mistakes and sorry you were the victim of that. They do carry insurance to cover repairs caused by their mistakes, so you might reach out to Valvoline.

 

Good comments. There was NO o-ring on the aluminum oil filter cap drain plug. The big one was in the right position. The under car tech didn't put one on that came with the new filter. Either he was too lazy, didn't care, or didn't know. I can't prove it was on purpose. I replaced the filter, o-rings, and filled it up with oil. Started it up, no engine noise. Let it warm up, rested it for 5 min, then rechecked oil and added a bit more. No leaks. Keeping my fingers crossed, but so far, it seems fine.

After careful consideration, I believe the tech under the vehicle must have known that the cap drain plug had no o-ring. It is really hard to believe that out of the box, the drain plug would be so tight it needed a crescent wrench on the oil filter cap to hold it and a ratchet and extension in the drain plug to break it loose. There is no way it could have come from the factory that tight. I believe the tech just thought, "No o-ring? Oh well, I'll just tighten it as tight as I can. If it leaks oil, he'll be several states away."

I lost almost 7 quarts. It cost $40 dollars and a whole day cleaning the oil from the front of the Airstream and back of my truck. The undercarriage is still covered, but driving in some rain should get most of it. I am so thankful I heard the tapping noise when I did. I could not reach the manager in Texas, so I shot an email to Valvoline Corporate and requested $207 for the service, $40 for cleaning, and $50 for my son's buddy who towed my trailer.

Lesson learned? After every oil change, check for leaks and oil level. I made the mistake of assuming. Never again. If my 17 year old, 257,000 mile, 5.7l, Double Cab, 4x4, Limited makes it back to Washington from Kansas this weekend with no issues, it is a testament to just how durable and overbuilt these engines/trucks are.

 

Did you see any metal filings or chips on the filter? 7 quarts is almost 88% of the capacity. Hoping the best for you.

Oil change places hire children and idiots unfortunately. They are not going to get good help paying $13 per hour, then again, changing oil is not rocket science and doesn't warrant a six figure income. I guess the answer is DIY which is a pain in the ass on nearly all Toyota models.

 

Send your next oil change sample for oil analysis. This is one of many stories of incompetence by today’s work force. I do my own stuff because you can’t trust others to give a crap about your stuff anymore. They just don’t.

 

Stay away from Quick Lube places and find a wrench twister that will allow you to be under the vehicle to do your underbody inspection. If they allow that they have nothing to hide. Tip the mechanic and he will remember you.

 

THIS! THIS! THIS! IMMEDIATELY!!!

 

My big concern is the burden of proof in on you. If you were to catch their mistake before you left their property you would stand a very good chance of a settlement. Being a civil issue and not criminal you do have a better chance.

 

Great feed back and suggestions. Thanks! And though the remaining 1.25 quarts of oil was black, I did not notice any metal filings or indications of metal in it.
Today we made it home the 2,364 miles from Texas, up and over two 10,000'+ Rocky Mountain passes, and several more lower elevation passes to eastern Washington yesterday. Unbelievably, the Tundra performed flawlessly, I won't say I babied her, but I did keep the RPM's under 4,000 climbing the grades by not using the cruise control. A few times, this resulted in 45-50 mph, but I was not in a hurry. I checked the oil at every fuel stop, which was often as we encountered 30-40 mph headwinds across eastern CO, Utah, and southern Idaho. I used no oil, and it looks like new oil after nearly 2,500 miles.

I love my truck. I bought it used in 2012 with 99,000 on it for $18k. Now, 160k later and 12 years, it looks, feels, and performs like always. Has anyone else had a similar issue and their Tundra suffered no ill effects?

Honestly, I knew Toyotas were well built, as my Previa mini-van went 345k before selling it. Everyone I know with a Toyota have only good things to say about them. My truck still has the stock windshield and stock shocks. I can't tell any difference between how it rides and my buddies 2017. Why does Toyota build vehicles that last so long when most other manufacturers don't? If I had to buy another truck, it will be a Toyota. But at this rate, barring any unforeseen accidents, or engine failure that might come from this debacle, I should get another 740k out of her.

Lesson learned: After an oil change, check the level and check for leaks. DON'T drive 536 miles only to find out it was almost out of oil!

 

When I was in grade school while living in Japan in the 1958-1960 time frame (4th and 5th grade), our class was invited to take a tour of the Toyota factory. Even though I was young, it was clear that they were top-notch at building cars. Extremely well organized, perfectly clean assembly lines, everyone wearing white spotless uniforms, it was amazing.

We were seated in a conference room before the tour and given gifts and a presentation by one of the executives. I wish I could find the gift, it was a small model of the ToyoPet, their top of the line car at the time. It was gold colored plated and had red velvet inside (the roof lifted off) and was intended as a jewelry or cuff-link box. This was before Toyota cars were exported to the US (as I recall). This tour (actually took it twice) made a lasting impression on me.

Dan

 

I change my own oil now but used to go to "quick lubes" with my past vehicle. Realizing anyone, even yourself, could make a mistake in changing oil I personally wouldn't widely say that all oil change shops are bad. I would suggest only getting your oil changed locally to a place you will frequent. Where they will know your name and if anything wrong happens you know where to take it back to. The problem potentially with traveling and getting oil changed is that they know its highly unlikely you will ever come back. So just like in your case they will suggest and upcharge you on things you may not need (i.e. new oil filter housing, new drain plug etc) I'm sorry to see that happened to you and understand you probably had no better choice than get service on your trip. Lesson learned for us all indeed.

 

You might enjoy this thread...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/brief-history-of-toyota-motor-co-and-museum.46865/

 

Do you know for a fact if they swapped the plastic housing guts meaning the bypass valve to the new housing? That compression spring is a critical component and allows for oil to flow properly. If you aren't certain, I suggest correcting it in the near future. As for excessive engine wear, very likely, but also very difficult to prove how much. Good luck!

 

That's FANTASTIC, thanks for the link. I wish I had known it was there I would have made an effort to visit during our vacation to Japan in 2017. I lived there from 1958 to 1962, first two years in Kobe, second two years in Gifu. Loved every minute of it.

Dan

 

Good observation. Yes. I removed the aluminum cap, broke the drain cap free, saw no O-ring. I bought a new filter and replaced the big O-ring and put on the small one on the drain cap. I check that the perforated tube inside the cap that the filter slips over. It, and the spring were in place correctly. I put on a new filter, tightened the oil filter cap and drain plug, as well as the pan drain plug, and added new oil. This week I'm going to drain the oil and replace the filter again just for good measure. Thanks!

 

That OE aluminum housing for the Tundra is also used for other model Toyotas and comes with a shorter inner tube (the perforated one you mentioned) than is required for the Tundra. The tech who did your oil change would have needed to know this and should have swapped out the shorter tube from the aluminum one with the longer tube from your original plastic housing. Seeing that they forgot the smaller O-ring, they may have skipped this step, too. If you didn't check that, please do and now you'll need to find a source for the longer tube since the oil shop likely threw it away. I change my own oil to avoid these type of horror stories.

 

Horror story for sure. I don't even trust the stealership either, last I took my car there, they left the splash guard unclipped and it came apart half-way to San Diego. I ended up losing half the splashguard after it came apart and then got caught on the wheel. If they can't clip splashguards correctly, how can I trust them with a simple oil change.

 

Certainly don't trust them, but too old to do my own now. So I use a clean oil-change place close to work...clean & I can watch them do everything. You have to. Good luck with your 07, mines touching 130K now.

 

Just do it at the dealership. The price is about the same and the service is reputable.

 

If I am paying to have someone change my oil I use the dealership. It cost a little more, but at least the techs have been trained. I had too many bad experiences at Valvoline, the last time (about a year ago) tech showed the dip stick and it was about a quart low. I told him it was a quart low and he said he would add some. He comes and tells me he added a quart and a little extra... Like he did me a favor, now it was a quart too high... I just drove it home and pumped out the excess because at this time I did not trust them to do anything else to my wife's car.

All of my oil changes since then have been done by me or the dealership.

 

Dropped my 2011 2x Cab at my normal shop for an oil change where I had been going for over 10 years. “John” wasn’t there, but there were a couple fast talking guys from “another country” who were evasive and said that John had a son sick with Lyme Disease and was managing his care in another state. Later it turns out John sold the shop and they didn’t have the guts/integrity to say that they are in fact the new owners (and it turns out, clueless).

Long story short - not only did they forget to replace the fill cap, but they omitted the perforated tube inside the filter. I drove for some 450 miles, much of it at highway speeds, before getting an odd CEL (valve timing) then some rattling and tapping from what sounded like the timing chains and valve train. Oil pressure dropped and I stopped driving. Had it towed to the shop and they assured me everything was fine. It is not fine, trailered it to several more shops, until one finally figured out that the oil filter was collapsed and this was the cause of the low oil pressure/no flow. Replaced the filter cover/tube assembly and oil pressure is back to normal, but now there is a loud ticking/tapping at certain RPM/gear combinations which is getting progressively worse. As a mechanical engineer and former military pilot I know 1st hand that nothing good ever happens when an engine has not received proper lubrication - I am riding on borrowed time and expect a failure at some point in the near future. Gone is the rock solid dependability of my Tundra and the ability to haul anything, anytime, anywhere.

Have tried to remedy the situation, but the shifty guys at the shop deny any responsibility and an insurance claim filed against their carrier was also denied. Problem is being able to prove that a possible service error resulted in the latent failure. Although it makes perfect sense to me, too much time has passed, and the insurance droids have the deniability. Was ready to trade the truck for a new one, but am turned off by the cost and now all the issues with the new V-6’s. Looked at all the other trucks and have been hearing of various engine problems with the new designs and issues with the older design and the engineering gymnastics to increase the fuel economy. I won’t sell the truck to an individual, and the wholesalers/dealers will only give me around $11,000. Have decided to bite the bullet and replace my sick 2011 130 K mile engine with a 2016 77 K unit from a truck that had been side-swiped and totaled. I’m basically “buying” my truck for $10 K, having owned it since it was new and having performed all of the service and maintenance on schedule. I will be changing my oil personally from now on or until I can find a shop that I can trust again.

 

Unfortunately the people doing the oil changes are either high on something, have been drinking or they are just fucking stupid. Bummer about your engine, hopefully the swap will go smoothly but it looks like you have your work cut out for you. You aren't the first victim of the 5.7 oil filter not being assembled correctly by the simian changing the oil.

 

What a shame. Welcome to the forum and good luck with your engine swap, is the 10k include labor + engine or are you installing yourself?

 

Make Spin-on oil filters great again.