2006 Tundra Lucchese #42 (I've got issues)

Just from researching it the last few days, I've come to realize the depth of this skill set. I know what I put on the truck will be an amateur attempt, and I can appreciate the dedication of the dudes in the shops, but I just can't drop another 3k as I was quoted. Blunder on my part by giving that money to firestone instead.

 

Impressed and eagerly happy for you! Sounds like you studied painting online and likely got tips at the paint store too?

Love seeing the details like the paint gun stand. Did you grab a respirator too? And some mixing cups, stir sticks, and conical paint filters for straining the paint as it is poured into the gun?

Horizontal surfaces like the hood can be easier than say a mounted fender that can more easily form runs/drips on a vertical surface from being laid on too wet. But there is an additional challenge of managing the hose to keep it out of the wet paint when extending toward the center of the panel.

For the roof, ladders or paint platforms on both sides may be the answer. And since you likely will go from one side to the other quickly so not to lose the wet edge in the middle, having everything setup and your reach pre-tested will be important, since there likely won't be any time to set the gun down and move a ladder for instance. And likely that would kick up dust too.

Dialing the gun in first on a piece on something disposable like masking is important to get a good finish. The regulator at the gun will be a key along with the airflow settings on the gun itself. And the primer may spray differently than sealer, base and clear. So can test the right pressures for each one right before laying each on.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pNfjSFyGYiM

Laying the primer / sealer can give some practice on how the gun works and fan lays paint, including speed and keeping the same distance from the thing being painted with an on-off for the trigger on each pass without arcing (as that affects the distance). Blemishes in the sandable primer layer could be leveled.

The basecoat is where it becomes more important to have good technique because bad orange peel or large drips for instance would be harder to fix (there's techniques for that) than say a dust nib that be sanded out between coats or before clear with like 600 grit.

For the clearcoat, it's really important to get the paint on wet enough but not to thick to drip and with the right air pressure to reduce orange peel while keeping dirt out. Minor issues in clear can be sanded and polished later.

Hope you have fun!

 

Got some tips for him? Be nice to practice all the layers and techniques first on a few smaller things I think.

 

That was a motivator for me to learn this too. The good news is you're panel painting the hood (edge to edge). No blends. No metalics. And it's horizontal. Looking forward to seeing it repainted!

 

Amazing information, I really appreciate you taking the time to provide all this, I'm really nervous while also being really excited! I'll be sure to take this all to heart and practice for a bit before committing to the base coat. The clear coat has me worried though, really hope I don't mess it up!

Exactly, the hood and the roof (which has rust pocking, but not terrible) are my two main goals, after that I'll see how the polishing goes on the sides before I decide I need to strip them off. I really hope I get a good match to the current paint.

 

Did they look up the paint code? Think black can be an easy match compared to say a silver flake. The good news about the clear is its clear. So it can be corrected to some degree after drying but with work, or recoated.

If you look at other cars you'll probably note factory finishes have orange peel. So wouldn't expect a glass finish out of your gun. But worth the time to dial in the pressure, fan, etc. and practice some overleap of each stroke. And remember what the paint society video showed about 1st coat lighter and then that creates stickiness for other coats to go on ... just a little ... thicker.

What reducer did you get and what is your temp? Did someone talk to you about that? Fast reducer in hot weather will give less "wet edge" time, yet reducer that's too slow (especially in cold weather) can leave paint to run.

Looked at your pics again and notice the front of the hood has a little vertical section up front. Be careful to keep the gun at the same distance as you curve that horizontal to vertical and keep moving at the same speed. Otherwise if you get closer at the transition or slow down, the paint will likely build up there, and could form a drip down the front. If starting the stroke up at the windshield toward the front, then would end by just pulling the gun past the vertical end of the hood and releasing the trigger once into the masking paper.

I'm confident what you do will look better than it does now. And if you don't like the results. It's just some work (and supplies) to sand and recoat!

 

Holy shitballs. All-in!

White or orange. Orange is fine, and is just aggressive enough to get any single stage paint back to shine from dead chalk with only medium effort.

Let's be real: With basic prep observations, and following the video set you posted, knowing OP will take more care for his own stuff because it's his, it'll look almost surely look better than a MAACO paint job.

@Lexmunk I would say I suck at painting overall, but I've had my fair share of paint projects from motorcycle tanks to bicycle frames to body panels. The only nugget of wisdom I can part - aside from how insanely critical panel prep / panel cleanliness is to your end result - is this, something I really struggle with: If you fuck up something while it's wet, whether that's a fingerprint, a hair in the paint, or a run, the worst thing you can possibly do is panic and try to fix it while wet. It's far easier to fix after things dry. I had to learn to control my OCD. You can "erase" an absurd amount of things later.

 

There’s literally waaaay too much for me to go into any sort of details on a forum, but i do have a couple tips...

-cover everything in the vicinity with plastic. Overspray WILL go everywhere and stick to everything...and you won’t be able to remove it!

-if you have difficulty reaching the roof of the truck, set up planks on both sides of the cab in a way that you can safely walk on it.

-even the best 80 gallon compressor will produce a ton of moisture in the air hose if you don’t have some way to remove it. A 30 gallon compressor will even be worse. Don’t even think about using one of those red colored Porter Cable pancake compressors. Those things are rubbish and are best left on your open tailgate so that when you drive around it falls off into the ditch.

-Do watch some youtube videos from someone who IS NOT a youtube influenza-er...i mean influencer. There stands a REAL good chance that they don’t now what they’re talking about. 99% of them are a plague, and they’re there to not teach, but to gain likes.

-lacquer thinner is different from paint thinner (mineral spirits). Make sure to use lacquer thinner when cleaning up.

-wear safety glasses, gloves, and a respirator. Wearing a spray head sock is also highly advised. Clear coat overspray in the hair hold better than DEP hair gel AND Aqua Net hairspray...combined.

-i personally would remove the hood and refinish it while it’s sitting on saw horses.

 

On the leather topic, I can't speak to the company, but I did just find this place from Oklahoma that not only does custom reupholstery for our trucks at their shop (physical shop has a 4.8 star rating with tons of reviews), and does re-leather for dealerships, they also ship out their leathers around the country, and have a lot of options. Since TheSeatShop has failed us all miserably to get something that works with our 1st gens, maybe this is an option for you? https://leatherseats.com/shop/build...indmake=Toyota&findmodel=Tundra&findyear=2006

That link will let you build a set with your own personal preferences. I've never used them, but they're so highly rated and the pricing is cheaper than Toyota charges.

 

I'm in 108 degree weather today, I got slow for the reducer, they said if I'm painting during the day I would see drying in 30-40 seconds on edge. Yeah that edge is turning out to be a huge pain in the ass, see pics below lol. My hands are numb from trying to sand it, the results aren't that great tbh, I'm using 400-600 grit paper and went through 11 pads already. Might be time to go buy a different sander maybe.

THANK YOUUUUU, I was hesitant to beg for advice from you, I really appreciate the info, I'm planning on turning my garage into a little clean room that fits the truck with some fans under the garage door, I have all the PPG for unrelated uses, but works just fine for this haha.

Thanks! The driver seat is in the worst condition with the back seats being virtually untouched since he really never let us in it haha, I'll be sure to check them out soon, I really want to get that seat replaced.

 

I’d start tackling the hood with 320 grit. And i’d sand all the way down to the top of the existing primer coat. Use the black base coat as a guide. Once you sand through 99% of the black, then go at it with 400 grit. Sometimes i’ll go to 500 or so, but 400 should be plenty for what you’re doing. Oh, and if there’s lots and lots of rock chips, then possibly even low as 220 in a few spots if needed.

I’d also highly recommend to unbolt the grill from the hood. It will make the paint job better and your life easier.


Hose down the floor right before you paint!! It will help tremendously to keep the dust from churning up into the paint.

Make sure there’s absolutely zero chance of any sparks (or flames) inside your garage when you’re painting. And if you have your garage door closed most of the way, there’s going to so many paint fumes that it will be difficult to see what you’re doing...even with a couple fans under the door. You’re best bet might be to keep the garage door all the way open and still use the fans. But also keep in mind that those atomized wet paint droplets are going to float around in the air until that land on something that you probably won’t want them to land on.

It’s pretty much a given that it will be less windy outside first thing in the morning (which is why farmers spray their crops a the crack of dawn). So if you’re painting outside, get to work painting as early as you can (temperature dependent of course).

 

In addition to the disposable filter right before the gun, can build this installed right at the compressor before the hose. Bucket filled with cold water condenses the hot moisture filled air in the coils and separates it. Consider a hose for painting that is not used for air tools (especially where previosuly had an oiler installed before it).

...or great for finish nailing trim!

Might want to step down to 220 instead of cut it initially with 400, then finish up with the 400 before the primer/sealer. If the metal is pitted can use a little body spackle but it looked like you had full primer coverage prior, so sandable primer is probably enough instead of the filler.

Yes, for just a few $ can hang plastic dropped from the ceiling to floor to create clean room walls. Then before painting blow everything off and out....walls and floor, finishing with a light wet spray with a hose on the cement floor to hold any remaining dust down.

You do have a real respirator with charcoal filters right, not just a dust mask?

Great advice from @whodatschrome to pull this off and put within easy reach, along with suggestion to remove grille.

 

BTW are you referring to edge of the hood? Likely the edge the paint shop was referring to is the edge of the paint from each pass of the gun's fan. The edge is kept wet by each subsequent painting pass using a slight overlap. If it dries before the next pass then the finish will look dull as the atomized spray from the next pass kind of lays on top instead of mixing in with the previous pass. That's why panel painting is easier than painting like a whole car because can start at one side of the panel (hood) and keep the wet edge until making the last pass with the spray edge off the other side.

 

My grammar was a little off, yeah I meant the wet edge, then immediately said "that edge" to refer to the raised part of the hood haha. I was dog tired when I typed it up, and now I'm working on it again today, I'll post the update later.

 

I want to speak to the manager of Rock Chips Inc. Their product ruined my day again. So I'm getting decent-ish progress, I'm down to 320*? grit sand paper and bought a 220 block for the edges since I can't see to get them very well with the sander. I'll be taking off the grill tomorrow, hopefully if I can get enough done in the morning before work I can put on some of the primer. (I also gotta go back to homedepot, because the filter I bought needs some kind of adapter to fit to my compressor, a little annoying it didn't include those). Lots of bare metal, might need to seal maybe?

 

If its that much of a problem just get some aircraft paint remover and remove it totally down to bare metal and start over.
That orbital polisher you got, buy some of the velcro backed sand paper they have and use it and you will see a WORLD of difference in your sanding. I would get a 320 grit and you will blow that hood down to primer fast.

 

That's actually a brilliant idea to use the orbital polisher, I have no idea why I didn't think of that.

 

Are you just trying to feather the edges of the cut through or what are you attempting to do ... sand out rock chips? Do you need a filler? As far as the 1st layer on the metal, after any filler did you buy epoxy primer? Then if need more build and contouring did you get 2k urethane primer that can be sanded? Then a sealer coat over all the dissimilar materials - paint, filler and primer(s) - helps create an even canvas for the base coat. Have heard some thin epoxy 50% as the sealer (and don't sand the sealer layer) but I've used actual sealer product.

 

I'm just trying to give myself an even surface to work with, then drop on an epoxy coat (sand it even) on the metal areas, seal it, prime (wet sand even), base, then clear.

*also in the rock chips, there is some rust I'm trying to get rid of, I wasn't sure if I can use some WD-40 and some 80 grit to nuke it.

 

this worked* but chewed up the pads very very quickly at 1000 and was better at 600, but got to metal almost instantly anyway.

 

Can sometimes use a glaze to fill rust free chips, but

$20 5 Pack Strip Discs Stripping Wheel for Angle Grinders, Remove Paint, Rust Welds and Oxidation (4-1/2" x 7/8")

this will defiinely take the chips to metal quickly and remove the rust.

Think the order is any filler(s) on the metal, epoxy primer, sandable uerethane till feathered and block sand using guide coat to level and not have waves under the paint, then scuff all with a pad, seal (no scuffing after), basecoat(s) sanding in between layers as needed or wanted with like 600, then clearcoat(s).

 

Loctite Naval Jelly, used per the directions on the bottle, will get you paint ready and rust free within 1-2 applications and it’s absurdly easy to use. It’s what I’ve used dozens of times for rock chips, paint scratch-thru that’s rusted, etc. Can post some before/after pics from my truck specifically if it helps.

 

Remember seeing that recently.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/lets-see-your-first-gen-photo-thread.21/page-67#post-1826900

 

Can also get something like

$9 3M Paint and Rust Stripper, 4 in Diameter, For Use on Wood, Metal, Plastic or Fiberglass, Use as a Rotary Disc (on face) or as a Brush (on edge), Fits All Standard Household Drills (7772ES)

this that is a version that fits in a drill for slower speed / less removal instead of on an angle grinder. One uses the flat surface the other uses the edge. Great for other things too like prepping skid plate or odd shapes like knuckle or LCA and prefer them to wire wheels usually but sometimes find have to use both depending on what shape trying to clean. So then there is sand/bead blasting.

 

DON'T USE WD-40!...or any other kind of lube!!! Attack those spots with some 80 grit. At this point with a bunch of rock chips, i'd be tempted to remove all the paint/primer and go down to bare metal. If you go that route, then i would use 80 grit.

 

And if you use the 80 grit likely want to avoid sanding heavily with that grit right on top of the the lines that run from front to back on each side of the hood. Want those to stay crisp and straight and not round out or might have to then build them back in.

 

Hehehehehe

Yeah, WD40 is the fastest way to land yourself in orange peel hell. But if you need to hide a bunch of fine scratches in a vehicle's paint, it works wonders. First time someone washes it afterward, all those scratches will jump back out.

 

Gotcha, no WD40 and maybe more bare metal.. it's been absolutely WIMBY down here with 30-40mph winds for the last couple days and I tried to do some test sprays on paper with disastrous results. Since I can't paint with the garage door closed, I have to wait for the winds to die down. It is fully sanded though, I'll put a pic up later.

 

30mph wind is perfect for sanding outside, not so much for painting. Remember, there's going to always be less wind in the early mornings, then it picks up more steam throughout the day and into the evening.

 

I live in a plains area of NM, "less wind in the early mornings" is still 20+ mph during this time of year. I wake up to 50+ sometimes at 5am. It dies down late at night, usually just after midnight, so I can paint then.. maybe. If my neighbors don't throw a fit with the noise of my compressor.