Transmission Cooler Bracket

Lock nuts, M8-1.25
https://monsterbolts.com/products/nuts-din985-a2


Washer M8
https://monsterbolts.com/products/washers-din125a-a2

Bolts M8x22 is what I used. Should be able to used M8x20 if you want the end of the bolt close to flush with the nut.
https://monsterbolts.com/products/hex-bolt-a2-m8?variant=21228438257747

 

Got her installed today got the mount from @Jmunk
Had cat shield plates and front skid on the truck. Not sure if that was contributing to what I feel was excessive high temps.
Was hitting 245f pan temp headed up the mountains last weekend.
We’ll see what temps are like with the new cooler.

 

My temps haven’t went over 195 since installing the cooler even when towing. Summer heat is coming so I may see a slight increase in temperature but I wouldn’t imagine it would be more than a few degrees.

 

Same with by big cooler. When cruising on the highway and the TC unlocks on a short rise, my pan temps now drop

 

Pan temp was 201 max today. 85 outside temp.
I was shittin and gettin trying to get the temp to rise.
Looks like we have a winner

 

Looks good - I've got my Jmunk bracket at the powdercoater as we speak. Did your soft lines come with the braided outer or did you add it? I was thinking of using split loom but I like what you did as well.

 

I put split loom over the hose I referenced from Napa. I’m using the split loom to cover the lines to keep the UV off them behind the grill. Probably not a big issue but easy enough to do.

 

I used this with some heat shrink tubing on the ends. If you use this stuff, tape the ends first to make it easier to heat shrink.
Otherwise it wants to fray.

 

@bshowalter, didn't see this post/question for a few days. I have the 90° fittings on my truck, but the 45° would possibly be better. Either is fine though.

One tip straight from Setrab, make you connect the hoses so that when the cooler is mounted, the fluid is pumped in through the bottom port and out of the top port.

 

Did Setrab explain to you what the reason was for connecting this way? Also, can anyone chime in if they know which outlet on the transmission thermostat pumps out the fluid so we can connect the hoses in the proper direction at the cooler (without having to start the engine and pump out some fluid)?

 

Perfect - thanks!

 

I believe you need the straight fitting as it acts as a reducer for the AN style fitting. I used a 30 and a 45 degree after the straight adapter to connect to the rubber line. I’m sure you could used both as either and be fine.

 

Yeah, just trace the lines based on the diagram that was posted.

The reasoning is it ensures you get all the air pockets out of the cooler, maximizing its efficiency. Also in our application, the top ~3/4 of the cooler is in direct airflow, so this will cool the fluid best right before it goes back into the lines.

No need for reducers or adapters. Setrab makes direct fittings to reduce the chance of leaks in all the flavors, 0°, 45°, 90°, and 120°. As mentioned before, I am using the 90° version of this fitting, but the 45° is also a good choice depending on how you run the hoses.
https://setrabusa.com/collections/p...sa-hose-ends-m22-to-pl?variant=41774934556726

 

Dang it, I followed the you tube video on here and connected input to top of cooler.
I just put the skids and stuff back on!
Fack!
I guess I’ll
Leave it until next drain and fill.

 

If you installed the factory hardlines, you should be able to swap them under the hood. Or worst case, pull the grille and swap them at the cooler?

 

Bummer, but I would not sweat it for now. Where in CA are you located - I am in 92677.

 

Modesto- stockton

 

Where did you put the 10mm spacer? It looks like it would go where the horn bolt is since there is such a "wave" in the top bracket but your picture looks like you used the factory horn bolt

 

If you look at the close up of everything mounted, you'll see the stock (black) horn bolt is on the far right. To the left of it you will see a large silver headed bolt. The space goes where the large silver headed bolt is. You will need a nut (M8x1.25) on the far right to hold the horn with the stock bolt. My design relocates the horn a couple inches to right since the original mounting point is now used for the bracket.

 

@pman9003 I take it your bracket uses an existing hole for the bottom mounting point? I really like that design.

 

Correct, there is a threaded hole already on the truck for the lower mounting point. If I remember correctly, that one is also an M8x1.25 thread.

 

Thanks! Is the top "bar" of your bracket straight when it's mounted or is it bent to match the body brace?

I also noticed your mount is for the 20 row cooler instead of the 15 for anyone else that's ordering

I placed my order for all of the parts today. Now I need to go to the hardware store to stock up on bolts, nylon nuts, and some hose

 

Everything is straight/flat to keep it simple and cost effective. There is no need for a bend.

 

The one that I made is also straight, I just used a space at the top to get it pretty close to level.

 

Did you just bend a bar for the left side to mount the radiator?

 

Just updating that I ordered the bracket from Jmunk and the parts that are listed in the thread. It will end up with a lot of boxes of parts, but well worth it. Bracket fit perfectly and I did my first trip and towed my 84 4runner back on a UHaul car hauler 900 miles. I don’t know what the trans temps were before, but they stayed under 200 and mostly around 185 using the Vepeak and an old iphone as a gauge. I experimented with using D, or shifting, S5/S4 and found that it depends on the terrain and how engaged you want to be with your driving if you want to keep the temps down at the TC.

 

Yup! I put it on a table and bent it. Just a little at a time and then checking the fitment each time.

I've been offroading more times than I can count and I've been corss country. It's still holding up.

I CAN NOT STRESS enough how important it is to put something rubber between that metal plate, the solar mount brackets and the cooler. The metal bar and the oil cooler will chafe if something rubber isn't between the two. I just used a piece of clear vinyl hose. If you need more pictures or a video, let me know.

 

AstoDude, please post some pics of what you mean for the Rubber placement

 

My install with Jmunk’s bracket and parts list on this thread. I also used some braided hose cover that was at Harbor Freight. Now I’m trying to decide what I want to use to monitor the temps. I don’t think plugging and unplugging from the obdII is ideal and I think the blue tooth messes with my wireless CarPlay adapter intermittently.