Another 5.7 oil filter cartridge thread..

Upon removal of the aftermarket metal filter housing then removing the media I heard a couple of metal pieces hit the container (spring & cap) Too bad I didn't see their orientation.
Anyone recognize the cartridge innards and their orientation ??
I took some pics based on my best guess on how they lay in the housing.
How far im I off ???

 

That looks correct. That being said, Carcarenut (Toyota master tech on YouTube for those who don’t know him) states that he only recommends the OEM part, and even said that once the innards have come apart, the cap is no longer good. Many, including myself have done just fine with the metal aftermarket cap.

I should add that I did end up buying a new OEM cap after seeing his recommendation though.

 

The bypass valve information in the CCN video is not correct. Disassembling the cap is not detrimental to the bypass valve, which sits above the coil spring in the base that clips into the cap.

 

All parts were on when I bought the truck. Being that my 20 Camry V6 came with a plastic oem cartridge housing Wich I broke first oil change.it was extra tight from the factory. I'm leaving the metal unit till I have good reason to change it.

 

I have metal one and it has been working fine for last 5x oil changes.
I did start to 2nd guess myself because the CCN video as well but the stand pipe swap has not had any issues. The crap plastic housing that I have destroyed more than once on the other hand….

 

Toyota's rationale for using a plastic cap on the Tundra....
to save weight.

 

I also thought the information in red was funny.

 

A few ounces on 5500lb truck.
Ok, I'll buy that for a dollar.

 

Good seeing this, likely off to swap mine for the metal one next change or so, funny enough toyota dealer had toyota oil filters (shocker) but for $8 or so CAD, can't really beat that.

 

Correct if I am wrong, but that pipe in the middle is not a strainer. Instead it is a perforated pipe that allows oil to flow through the cartridge walls. Its main function is to support the cartridge to prevent it from collapsing. If that pipe is not there, the pressure will cause the filter to collapse. Once the cartridge collapses, the oil pressure and flow will drop, in which case it will soon make the ECU set codes relating to the camshaft in bank 1 or bank 2 being over-retarded.

Another thing that happens when the filter collapses is that the engine oil pressure can stay below the mid-mark on the oil pressure gage, even at highway speeds and the transmission shifting from lower to higher gears (the oil pressure won't rise very much when you press the gas pedal). Summary: Normally, when you start your truck and press the gas pedal, you will notice that as the engine RPM increases, so does the oil pressure. But when the cartridge has collapsed, the oil pressure gage won't rise to match the engine RPM.

One has to be careful when installing an aluminum oil cartridge cap like the one you have. Just make sure to not cross thread it, since it will damage the threads on the engine. The composite caps do not do that. I would not mind having an aluminum one, since the Toyota composite ones cost over $150.00

 

Bruh, you just put me on notice with this comment right here.... I wonder if my oil filter has collapsed, since I am getting Camshaft codes for both bank 1 and bank 2 both A and B circuit along with the Crankshaft with Mobil 1 oil filter, may be time to go back to Toyota made filters...

Edit: I still have the original plastic one

 

Any filter really should be fine so long as you're not missing the full length metal tube. I would say remove it and take a picture, but I imagine that isn't your issue. How does your oil pressure gauge look on your dash?

 

oil pressure seems fine, my maintenance light just came on, so it's been on there for the 5k miles. Codes are intermittent as is the CEL, so it may just be a ground. I'll share when I do the change this weekend, or later on tonight.

 

The filter will crush when lacking the support tube, or becoming clogged. Normally, the bypass valve will take care of restrictions here, but it can only flow so much. A crushed or torn filter can obviously allow larger amounts of unfiltered oil through, but of higher detriment, filter fiber material, and previously filtered exterior surface trapped contaminants. Toyota obviously considers unfiltered oil of the appropriate volume and pressure to be of a better solution than inadequate or no oil.

I’m told the used all paper filters are great fire starters.

 

One must also be careful not to damage the housing threads when removing the stuck on composite cap.

 

The perforated tube supports the cartridge through the middle. If you look at a diagram of a spin-on metallic filter, you will see the metallic outer walls of the filter, and also a metallic perforated tube (sometimes a metallic mesh) in the middle of the paper cartridge. You can search "diagram of an engine filter" to understand what I am saying. Without the perforated tube in the middle the cartridge collapses because the difference in pressure outside of the cartridge and the middle of the cartridge. In this case a collapsed cartridge sometimes turns into a guitar shape (narrow in the middle, and wider at both the top and bottom).

This happened to the 2013 Tundra that I inherited from my oldest so who passed away on Saint Patricks day last year. He had an off-brand aluminum cap. So after he passed I drove the truck a few times and noticed that when entering a highway the transmission would shift normally from the lower gears, but the oil pressure wasn't following the higher RPM of the low gears. Then I read, maybe in this forum (?), a member telling a story about driving his fairly new Tundra with very low oil pressure, and also the reason why. It was collapsed filter causing the problem, but his truck didn't show the "cam timing over retarded codes" like it happened to my son's truck. It is very possible that the person doing the oil change had not notice the tube attached to the old cartridge ( I am assuming here). When I read this story, the first thing I did was to buy another oil cartridge and cap to have it as a backup, then I drained the engine oil, and sure enough...there was not a perforated tube in the middle of the cartridge. The cartridge looked like somebody has squished it in the middle.

See...codes like the ones for timing are permanently stored in the ECU, and most OBII readers won't delete permanent codes like these from the computer. You can erased them temporarily, but that's about it. So I installed the backup cartridge and cap, added 8 quarts of oil, and started the truck. Right then the RPM rose real fast a tad over the center mark since the engine was running on high idle (cold start).

When I checked the codes again using a BlueDriver scan tool, the permanent codes had been removed by the ECU. This was back in April las year, and I haven't seen the codes ever since. By the way, it doesn't matter if you use a metallic cap or not, as long as it has the perforated tube in the middle. This tube for the tundra is quite long because the cartridge itself is quite tall. When you press the cartridge down on the tube, the top edge of the tube should be about even with the top of the cartridge. something else that happens with the cartridge collapses is that it takes a long time, even several minutes, for the oil pressure to rise to the half mark on the gage.

 

You are correct. Some unfiltered oil will get through into the engine. Don't trust the fast oil charge places. I have learned from my mistakes, including putting the O-ring too far down the filter cap of my wife's RAV4. Luckily I always ask my wife to start her car while I am looking for leaks. That time the pressure dumped 3 quarts of oil on my driveway. Haven't made that mistake again.

 

I don't have that issue. I still have the original OEM plastic one with the long tube. I think the gasket came apart from the aftermarket sensor. Swapped the original one back in, so far so good. 4 starts and no issues until it shows up.

 

Dropped my 2011 2x Cab at my normal shop for an oil change where I had been going for over 10 years. “John” wasn’t there, but there were a couple fast talking guys from “another country” who were evasive and said that John had a son sick with Lyme Disease and was managing his care in another state. Later it turns out John sold the shop and they didn’t have the guts/integrity to say that they are in fact the new owners (and it turns out, clueless).

Long story short - not only did they forget to replace the fill cap, but they omitted the perforated tube inside the filter. I drove for some 450 miles, much of it at highway speeds, before getting an odd CEL (valve timing) then some rattling and tapping from what sounded like the timing chains and valve train. Oil pressure dropped and I stopped driving. Had it towed to the shop and they assured me everything was fine. It is not fine, trailered it to several more shops, until one finally figured out that the oil filter was collapsed and this was the cause of the low oil pressure/no flow. Replaced the filter cover/tube assembly and oil pressure is back to normal, but now there is a loud ticking/tapping at certain RPM/gear combinations which is getting progressively worse. As a mechanical engineer and former military pilot I know 1st hand that nothing good ever happens when an engine has not received proper lubrication - I am riding on borrowed time and expect a failure at some point in the near future. Gone is the rock solid dependability of my Tundra and the ability to haul anything, anytime, anywhere.

Have tried to remedy the situation, but the shifty guys at the shop deny any responsibility and an insurance claim filed against their carrier was also denied. Problem is being able to prove that a possible service error resulted in the latent failure. Although it makes perfect sense to me, too much time has passed, and the insurance droids have the deniability. Was ready to trade the truck for a new one, but am turned off by the cost and now all the issues with the new V-6’s. Looked at all the other trucks and have been hearing of various engine problems with the new designs and issues with the older design and the engineering gymnastics to increase the fuel economy.

I won’t sell the truck to an individual, and the wholesalers/dealers will only give me around $11,000. Have decided to bite the bullet and replace my sick 2011 130 K mile engine with a 2016 77 K unit from a truck that had been side-swiped and totaled. I’m basically “buying” my truck for $10 K, having owned it since it was new and having performed all of the service and maintenance on schedule. I will be changing my oil personally from now on or until I can find a shop that I can trust again.

 

Apparently they don't do it on backyard in fire pit. The resulting gases of burning hydrocarbons (which plastic is) in equipment w/ catalytic converter are CO2 and H2O. My fireplace insert has one. In winter you can sniff who's burning wood today: neighbor or me. I can technically burn plastic in there, without polluting the air with nasty stuff.

 

Welcome to the forum from OKC! Sadly similar stories frequently appear here. In my own case, a Toyota dealer flat lied to me and claimed to have done an oil change on my 4Runner when in fact they didn't and they didn't tell me until I requested my first Toyota care oil change at about 500 mi on my Tundra a few years later. Scumbags--all of them!

 

What is so hard about saying what you’ll do and doing what you say these days?

 

Well, my oil filter did not collapse, but my aftermarket crankshaft gasket failed. Once I pulled it out half the gasket came crumbling down. Replaced it with my old OEM sensor and its been functioning as it should.


Back to shops. Took my SC400 to America's/Discount Tire, for new tires as my tires were a decade old at the time. Not sure how they order stuff but I got 3 tires replaced, had to return a few days later for the 4th. I had an aftermarket wheel with a hub centric ring mounted. I took it back to get that 4th one replaced and they took "care" of it. The tech claimed he was super familiar with the SC platform and he had owned 3 of them. when I asked for the hub ring he stated its in the trunk.

Long story short. On that 4th wheel I ended up with 2 missing lugs, but I swore I saw them getting torqued. No biggie bought some lugs and they didn't fit, wouldn't even bite on the threads.. So I decided to pull the wheel to see what's up.. Well, I found my missing hub ring, I had 3 accounted for, 2 in the garage and 1 in the trunk. Thought that last one was in the spare wheel I had in the trunk face up. Eitherway, it snapped 2 studs away and I replaced the remaining 3 since it was only a matter of time before they snapped off due to the additional stress from the ring. I did clean all surfaces with a wire brush and a coke and a smile.

 

What an amazing story! A great deal of thanks for sharing it in this forum.

Now, if the $10,000 replacement engine is in relatively good shape it will keep your Tundra going for a long time, which is a lot better than buying a new truck that costs a fortune.

 

Can't buy a new truck. Can buy a truck-like car with car-like engine, which blows up when put to truck-like loads.

 

New trucks the size of the tundra are too expensive these days. The 5.7L V8 Tundra engine burns fuel, but it produces all the HP anybody may need for heavy towing. I love my 2013 Tundra TRD Off Road (left to my wife and I by my oldest son). All I need now is to find one of the Maintenance Maps for the Tundra, just like the ones posted for the Tacoma at the Tacoma Forums.

 

Several valuable lessons to be learned in this post.
Principal is, if you can change your oil & filter then do so. Not including if your physically not able to, old age or injured.
But these trucks and everything about them are so dam costly $$. It is waaaay too easy for any Jiffyhead to say woops after changing your oil then two weeks later your puting a used 12$k motor on your credit card and wishing that it's a good motor.
I use to take for granted my dad teaching me sometimes even when I didn't want to change oil & filter spark plugs, tires, transmission fluid etc at 10--12 Y.O
Not anymore though there's grown men I work with that were simply never taught how to do these things or worse yet know how but won't.