In need of 1-1/2 inch rear lift advice

After reading the forums my head is spinning from all of the different and often contradictory opinions

I'm in the process of raising my bilstein 5100's with 2883's to the second clip for 1&1/2-2" lift from factory height, at least that's what I believe I was told for my DC.

when I installed the 5100s I went with a 1 inch block in the rear temporarily until I knew for certain how much I would lift the front. So now it's time to make a decision on the rear leaf springs. AAL or some variation or completely replace all springs. Honestly, the prices for the full replace were a bit steep for me at about $1400 or more.

I first thought of getting the icon AAL's from 1st gen offroad. But there seems to be quite a few that were very negative about that option


@FirstGenVol @shifty` I know you guys and many others went through this on your bestGEN's. But I appreciate input from anyone with real world experience

I am after about 1-1/2" of rear lift to keep most of the rake. I may tow a relatively small travel trailer in the future (3800-4300lbs). Otherwise, I don't haul but around 400-800 pounds (guessing) in the rear on a few trips I make each year but most of the time just street with no load.

 

You are correct about avoiding add-a-leafs. It's a waste of money at this point and you likely wouldn't get much lift. There are replacement leaf pack options that are substantially less than that.

@shifty` can probably name the leaf pack options from memory but I know there are ones for closer to $500.

 

I went icon AAL, 4 years ago it did its job but now I am looking to upgrade and change the entire leaf pack the oem springs have done its job. Looking to do a Deaver pack.

when I lifted it originally I had little to no knowledge or money and just did what everyone on YouTube was doing.

I don’t tow anything. I just have a camper shell with a box system and a full size spare

 

Get the ATS HD springs. Link in my signature below. You will get likely 1.5” lift out of them. Should be less than $600 shipped for anyone in the CONUS, I paid like $40 or something. Skip AAL, but if you do want to go that route, avoid ICON. You’ll only get 3/4” without the overload, and if you leave in the overload you get 1.25” but it’s risky because of where the rivers make contact. Tons of people running these, average height was 1.5 - 1.75” lift regardless cab type. Really bolsters things up in the back. Jump on your jumper before and after, you’ll see the difference immediately in how they function.

 

Wheeler's Offroad AAL and never look back. Best bang for your buck. Will achieve your desired 1.5" and will be stout.
Install with the overload for 2" or without for 1.5" and more flex.

 

See if RAS is available for your year, it is for the newer leaf spring trucks. Adds 1-1.5 lift depending on tension, helps with loads, sag and handling and does not negatively impact the ride like an add a leaf. Activesuspension.com

I run the HD version on my 2016 and it has been excellent.

 

at that price that is definitely the solution I prefer

By HD I'm assuming they're a little more firm or study than stock in addition to giving a bit of a lift. I believe I recall someone that went the AAL path saying it helped tremendously or resolved the "bump" at a stop from the slip yoke/leaf spring issue. Is that a problem on the AC and if so, did it Help yours or had you already resolved it by other means?

 

Go with the ATS HD. They gave my DC 1.5" in rear with canopy.

 

That's the way I'm going. Even though shipping is $100 for me it's still about $600

looks like it does not include U-bolts, etc. so still got a check in to see what else I need. that might run the price up a bit

 

I put 6125 in front after these pics - but these give nice idea. They ride great after a year. Love em and would do it again.

 

I was thinking about getting this ATS heavy duty kit that has everything for $634.95 part number BT90221HCK

 

That’s a good deal overall, I was just going to tell @Weagle that….

… they definitely sell pretty stout bolts suitable for their spring kits.

Bump/thunk at stop for 4WD is typically lack of greasing the driveline properly, specifically the slip yoke. For 2WD it’s often cracked trans crossmember or missing trans mount bolts (the 4 hidden bolts up under the crossmember). In any truck, it can also be a few things, not limited to bad u-joints.

 

Bump from rear was a problem for me from the factory. A friend who bought a double cab before me warned about it because his had it too, so sounds like none of those problems you mentioned

The other thump I was talking about in other threads recently was different. It was while you're moving usually going above 50, and you let off the gas for a few seconds then got on the gas again.
That started about 40,000 miles ago and I've gotten the run around about it - blaming it on all the miles on the drive train. Right

I believe that latter issue is gonna be the carrier bearing and extremely poor workmanship with the U joints because I just found out from the machine shop I have to have my entire driveshaft replaced. They cannot even put new U joints in it because it was mangled so badly from the previous shop.

 

Ouch!

Can you get a junkyard driveshaft and have it rebuilt?

 

I'm researching all of my options now. I read a few threads On here where people were recommending going to a heavy truck shop and having them build an aluminum one piece drive shaft

It appears Dana Spicer is no longer making our driveshaft which would've been my first choice.

Since I am replacing all three U joints and the carrier bearing anyway if I could find a good quality fully assembled new or rebuilt one that might be my choice at present unless I find better information in this forum

 

+1 on the RAS

 

www.car-part.com

Go used bro!

 

I think I may have asked this before but I don't remember. Looking at the ATS leafs. I'm looking at the left side for both RWD and 4WD and the dimensions are all the same as far as long and short end lengths as well as width. They are both 1500/lbs per. The 4wd versions are about $40 cheaper per side which would almost cover their shipping cost. Can I put the 4WD leaves on my RWD DC? I don't haul or carry much of anything and I def don't need the HD leaves. Thanks. Just trying to save a buck here.

 

Put the Wheelers 1.5" AAL on years ago and leveled it with 2.5" up front.

 

I've run it on four different Toyotas and can't find anything to complain about em. Great company and great product. Their AALs are 1mm thicker metal per leaf than the competition's. That's what makes em so stout compared to the icon progressive AAL and a great option for anyone looking to gain 1.5"-2" without having to resort to cheap lift blocks, single AALs, or the more expensive option of new leaf springs. It's the perfect middle of the road option for the thrifty truck owner.

 

Do you happen to know the driveshaft diameter? I've searched and searched, but can't find it

I found one from a driveshaft manufacturer that has been around since 1981 and uses spicer U joints with a three-year unlimited mile warranty. The price with free shipping and warranty make it an attractive option since it has three new U-joints and the carrier bearing.

The diameter is only 3 1/2 inches. I'm pretty sure mine is larger. I know the wall diameter is a factor as well. They assured me the way it is built makes it at least as strong as the OEM. But they can say a lot of things doesn't make it true

 

Call them and ask. They’re super helpful and will steer you right. They want you to be happy and aren’t going to jeopardize that over $40, $80, $100.

I can’t say, not near the truck to measure mine. Gripwise, I can’t fit my hand all the way around it to touch my middle finger to thumb so at least 3.5”-4”.

If it were me, I’d grab a donor off same year/cab and drive type, and carry that f’er into a drivetrain shop to balance and install if needed. But I’d personally update all the u-joints while I had it out. And probably replace center support bearing. Yeah I’d be in it for several hundred dollars at that point but I also wouldn’t need to touch it for another 10+ years so it’s worth it.

 

I was already replacing the carrier bearing, so I had also told the machine shop to also put on 3 new Spicer U joints

can't find a used driveshaft nearby at present

 

General Spring only lists springs for 4x4 models so I asked if they would work on my RWD. Just posting for additional info.

 

Excellent choice. I did the same when I replaced my carrier bearing.

 

Depending on how your springs are holding up, by checking your current measurements, the Deaver AAL might be an option. I used that on my AC and it gave I think 3.5/4 inches of lift unloaded. It also handled weight pretty well; which is something I haven’t heard about Deaver.