Integrated Trailer Brake Controller

My 2022 Tundra Integrated Trailer Brake Controller does not appear to be working. I setup up the trailer in the dash garage and the system detects the trailer when connected (lights and all work) but no matter the gain it just shows "Trailer Disconnected". Thought that was odd so maybe it was the trailer and then hooked it up to my wife's truck and works fine, no problem. I then tried my second trailer and get the same disconnect message. I saw that there were some TSBs on previous model years that needed a flash or something but has anyone had an issue with the new 2022 models?

 

I wish I could say this issue surprises me but it doesn't based on all the previous year problems. I would have hoped that Toyota had this figured out by now. Hopefully the dealership can get you fixed up. By the way, what part of Wyoming are you from? Just curious. I'm making a flyfishing trip to Wyoming next month.

 

Yeah, I am hoping the dealership can get it taken care of, I have to take it in for a recall anyways. I am in the SE part of the state and there is some good fly fishing up in the Snowy Range area near me. But some good areas are also up near Yellowstone in the NW part of the state.

 

Hope they can get it fixed quick for you and hope this isn't a bigger issue affecting multiple vehicles. I'm supposed to picking mine up in a few weeks and have a camping trip planned for a few weeks after that. Trading in our current tow vehicle for this one so won't have a backup vehicle.

 

I hope it is not an issue either, I traded in a chevy and worked fine in it but not this new one. I have it scheduled to have it looked at next week.

 

It was in the shop today for an IBC issue and they could not get it to work either. They said there was a code thrown, and I forgot to ask what it was, that they cleared and are still unable to get it to work with a trailer there. The trailer lights work fine when connected just not the IBC. They escalated the service issue as it was not seen before and asked me to take it home and try again with my trailers and bring it back later to see if a code returns so they can send that event up also. Has anyone else out there had an issue with their 2022 IBC?

 

I’m also having problems with my IBC in my 22 sr5, which I just got a month ago. I’m not getting any errors or disconnects on the dash at all but even with the gain maxed at 10 and manually engaging it won’t lock the trailer up at all. It’s braking for sure because I can feel it but only a little. My trailer is only 3.5k dry and 5k loaded too. I’m thinking of going aftermarket… anyone done that on their 22+? I’ve read all about the issues with the 2.5 gens as well.

 

Mine works fine for 2 years now with multiple trailers.

 

@ryanwgregg may have some info?

 

It’s a trollbot

 

Make sure the brakes are adjusted, my past truck gain was at 10 all the time and adjusting the trailer brakes helped but these newer trucks IBC are possibly dependent on brake pedal pressure too? I had an older tundra with a Toshiba brake controller and you could lock up the trailer brakes but two last trucks it not happening with th ibc.

 

Nope!

 

UPDATE: I took my truck to my rv dealership this afternoon to have them test the 7way connection. Everything tested good and the pins all looked to be in good shape. After talking with the technician some and telling him my problem he asked what kind of trailer I have. I told him it was 2024 wolf pup 16bhs and that we’ve only taken 2 trips in it. Instantly he said what @pwpblue said, brakes need adjusting and most new trailers (in my weight class) have auto/self adjusting brakes. He said with the 2 trips I essentially just broke the brakes in and to adjust them I need to put the rig in reverse and use the manual slide 3 times, go forward and try adjusting the IBC then repeat those steps until I’m happy. I’ll be hooking up tomorrow afternoon and going to an empty parking lot to do this. Will update after.

 

Remember, many brakes get very grabby when they get hot. You probably won't get them that hot in a parking lot, but it's something to remember if you start going back and forth many times.

 

Thanks for the heads up. These are both my first full size truck and trailer so any/all advice is greatly appreciated.

 

I realized I had not updated the solution to my original post, took dealership two days to track it down but apparently it was a relay under the dash that was not connected properly before leaving the factory. Fixed and worked fine since.

 

UPDATE: just spent 45 minutes doing the reverse thing and playing with the IBC. I’ve concluded that my brakes are in fact NOT self adjusting. I’ve already looked up how to manually adjust them and will be doing that tonight. Will hook up again tomorrow and update. Secondary question; the truck has 2 different electric brake options, 1: for 0-4999# and 2: for 5000#+. Although my trailer loaded is right around 5k the actually trailer frame has a load rating up to 14k. I’ve been using the 5k+ option, is that correct?

 

Can't answer that question but make sure not to over adj the brakes. You go one click too much and it can cause headaches. The slightest drag or you hear it STOP. It's a bitch to roll the adjuster to back off if they are self adj not an issue if they are not self adj.
If you pull the drum off you know! Then you need to not over do the spindle bearings as they need room to heat up and expand, plenty of good yt videos explaining this.

Just take your time.

 

I'm not an expert, so take it with a grain of salt - but it feels to me the difference between "0-5k" and "5k+" is what other brake controllers call "boost". A simple explanation is how aggressive trailer brakes respond to vehicle braking. I adjusted my gain and ended up towing my 4k lbs trailer on a 5k+ setting. In the other setting, it felt like the trailer was pushing on the Tundra unless I really pressed hard on the truck brake. On the 5k+ setting, Tundra and the trailer are braking evenly even with a light touch.

Regardless, it seems to me that below 5k and 5k+ settings only control the amount of current and the curve going to the trailer brakes. It won't break anything, and as long as you are not locking the wheels, go with what feels better.

 

UPDATE: I adjusted my brakes to a point I was comfortable with, hooked up and took the trailer out for a spin. I was fully loaded too as we were going camping. The braking was significantly better but when using the manual slider between 20-25 mph, max gain at 10 and the brake setting at 5k+ I am still not getting the trailer wheels to lock up. It has been my understanding that wheel lock up is something that should happen to adjust the IBC correctly as per videos online and the manual. Am I potentially missing something here? Could the IBC be pressure sensitive to the pedal? I’ve never slammed the brakes with the trailer to test if they’ll lock up before…

We went camping regardless and I didn’t notice too much push from the trailer. A little bit in town on flat ground but coming down the mountain I barely felt any. I was thinking mostly because I was empty fluid wise and the gear shifting while in tow mode. It was a short trip (35-40 miles) this time. We have longer trips planned for later this summer and I just want to make sure I don’t end up cooking my brakes and rotors.

 

When I had a p2 in my 2012 sr5 tundra then got a 2018 f150 with a built in brake controller it was the same as your experience. F150 would not lock up the brakes moving the slider and I think the brake pedal pressure applied changes things. You may notice after putting some miles on the camper the brakes may start to work alittle better? I know if I moved the slider from a stop I was unable to pull the trailer, but moving in the neighborhood it would not lock up but adj definitely had resistance. Thanks for the update as I havnt had mine out yet with the new Tundra.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z8VDuqlGkjM

 

During our first camp trip with our similar keystone 30’ dual axel camper, I didn’t realize I had to set up a trailer profile to use the ITB. After I set the controller up I also have gain to 10. Noticed there’s some Reddit posts about this too. Worked well for me hauling up and down some mountains but I’d like some more flexibility, and want to be safe.

 

Haven't towed with my yet but I use a Tekonsha P3 brake controller in my 08. With the P3 you set what type of trailer you have (single, double or triple axle). You then adjust how much power (voltage) is going into the trailer. It has a small display that will show you how much voltage is going to the trailer brakes when you step on the brakes. The harder you step on the brakes, the more voltage is sent to the trailer. The manual control to the right of the steering wheel should act the same. I'm not sure how the Toyota controller works but it's possible it works the same and depends on how hard you step on the brakes.
To test your trailer brakes to see if they are adjusted properly try pulling the pin on your breakaway switch. If you don't know what that is it's a box mounted near the front of the trailer (see pic below). Inside the box is a battery that will send voltage to the brakes if you trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle. There should be a smaller box that has a pin in it connected to a cable that you connect to the tow vehicle. There should be a button on the battery box which you can press to make sure the battery is charged, if it is fully charged hook up your trailer and go to a safe location like an empty parking lot. Pull the cable so the pin pops out, this will send voltage from the breakaway to the trailer brakes and should lock them up as long as the battery is fully charged. Try pulling the trailer to see if the breaks are locked up. If they lock up your good, if not they need adjusting.
If your trailer doesn't have a breakaway, get one immediately.

 

I set up the trailer profile the brake setting first time I hooked up. I also always make sure I go through and select the trailer before pulling out of the driveway. I would also like some more flexibility/safety too but there doesn’t seem to be much in the way of aftermarket brake controllers for the 3rd gens. I know redarc makes one that works and curt has a Bluetooth one that could potentially work. There’s a bunch of info on the 2.5 gens but so little on the 3rd gens for aftermarket BC’s I’m hesitant to attempt it. I think I may make a post specifically asking about it.

 

The fact that the manual slider won’t lock the brakes up, even after I adjusted them, is what is bothering me. As I previously posted I haven’t slammed on the brakes with the trailer to see what happens but I am guessing that it is pressure sensitive.

I have a breakaway cable for sure. Pretty sure it’s illegal to not have one here in NV. I’ll have to do some investigation to find the power source for it as I’ve been in my battery boxes and there definitely isn’t anything like the photo you posted in them. If I pull that cable though will the brakes release when I put it back in? So if I pull it and the brakes don’t lock up that means they need more adjustment? When I adjusted my brakes I did them to where they wouldn’t even make a full rotation when spun.

 

Connected to the small box that holds the breakaway pin should be a wire leading to a battery box. That battery box should contain a stand alone battery about the size of small tissue box. On the outside of the battery box should be a test button that will tell you if the battery is adequately charged. Try tracing the wire from the breakaway pin and see where it goes.

To answer your question, yes, when you put it back in it will disconnect the electrical charge that energizes the brakes and the brakes will disengage.