What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Soemone may know but otherwise can use a pitch gauge (usually comes with tap/die set) and caliper to determine. Is a castle nut not available at local dealer?

 

Believe its a M12x1.25. Take a lug nut and if it threads on the TRE just fine, it's an M12x1.50. If the lug nut won't screw on, but the lug nut diameter matches the TRE, then it's probably a M12x1.25.

OEM part number should be 90171-14042.

 

I damaged one TRE nut, so I went to the hardware store with the other. Your truck's already out of commission so removing the other castle nut isn't going set you back much farther. Not sure where you live or what type stores you've got, but here, ACE Hardware typically has a huge bulk hardware section. There you'll find things hanging from the wall that are different size threads, basically a bunch of different size bolts stuck to a plastic sheet. You can try to thread your nut onto them to find which size and thread pitch you're looking for. They typically have the same with nuts, so you can find which nut you're looking for if you have a bolt you're unsure of. Like I said, I found nylock nuts (no idea the size, I just wanted my truck back on the road so when I found one that worked I grabbed it and left) that fit. I had to find what bolt my TRE nut fit, and that told me the thread pitch and mm size nut I was looking for. A week later my order from Toyota came in so I took off nylock nuts and put the OEM castle nuts on.

Or just look at the nut and start opening drawers full of different size metric bolts that look close in size, and start trying each.

If all you have are hardware stores that only sell packaged nuts, instead of bulk, and you can't try them out...not sure what to do.

 

They don't fit right.

@Mr.bee is there a as camper shell up for grabs?

 

My man likes living on the edge, raw doggin’ it!

Always use poly-safe lube on any place metal touches poly. Not just for squeak relief, but for longevity’s sake as well. It’s not too late to do the work.

Kentucky Jelly!

(j/k)

 

I bet you know about West Virginia chrome too

 

Where’s the smiley of dude whistling innocently with music notes flying above his head?

 

Went to ace and got the nut for the tre. For anyone out there it ended up being a fine thread m14. Used some blue loctite and cotter pin I don’t think I’ll bother buying a new castlenut

 

Nice. What grade?

 

8

 

Was recently hospitalized and surgeon cleared me to drive again. Noticed my 2000 AC was moaning when I pulled out of driveway so I stopped and noticed power steering fluid very low like bottom of reservoir. My daughter had been visiting and driving it. I had asked her to check oil and coolant levels and SIL reported fluids all proper level. I filled to reservoir to proper level and it’s been stable for two weeks. I can’t explain where the fluid went?

 

Aliens? Glad you're back at 'em!!!

 

So my buddy had this issue on a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500. He would drive it and it would be fine and then when we would come back from our underways or out at seas or our deployments his reservoir would be at the bottom. Truck got used by his wife and his son and they always you know took it in and had the maintenance done and everything while he was gone. Well it turns out that he had an under load while driving leak from I can't remember if it was a supply line to the rack or the rack itself. So pulling in and backing out of a driveway or parking the car the power steering would not leak but while driving like highway speeds or on main roads it would leak while driving. Took him like a year to diagnose it.

 

Just ordered a full-bar Coastal Offroad front bumper (group buy for the win!). Next up, need to get a welder, so hopefully the Father's Day/July 4/summer sales bring me something good. Being a cheap bastard, those pricey investments are my motivation to learn to weld properly. There are a dozen videos of people welding literally that bumper so it can't be too hard.

 

How long ago did you replace the rack (if ever)? maybe air had been trapped in there and it worked itself out. Or as @JasonC. suggested, aliens.

 

Titanium HF MiG welder. Cheap, and works very well, especially for a hobbyist.

 

Replaced the O'reilly brand LBJs that came on the truck I bought. Glad it made it all the way back home. The passenger side only had 3 bolts securing it. Really glad I wasn't victim to the LBJ failure.

 

Dang.

 

If 4 did hold it, 3 never would

 

What brand did you use?

 

Wait a minute, didn't you have the dealer inspect them before you drove home? They missed the fact that a bolt was missing?

 

Duh, Napa obviously. > OReilly.

 

Cross Posting with "1st Gen Lunchtable"

Hey guys, second gen owner here but I have the 4.7L along with the A750F; looking for your knowledge on this transmission... three years ago I had to throw a torque converter in it fur shuddering; all good after that until about half a year ago I started getting ever so slight shudders again, thought it was the tc going out again but I think I've come to the conclusion that its actually the valve body. Had a trouble code pretty much for the last couple months (P2757 with check engine, 4lo flashing, abs light). I was looking at the TransGo shift kit (SK A750-WTA here) but I also priced up a new valve body from Toyota at $977. Shift kit is about $170; from what I've been able to find this transmission has valve body problems? So with that being the case is it even worth messing with the TransGo kit? Could it be another problem like the wiring harness? Should I just get the valve body and call it a day? Or could the fluid just be slightly low throwing the code (it did leak some fluid out months ago through a bolt on the side of the trans, tightened the bolt and filled the trans back up but I suppose it could be slightly off)? Truck is at about 260k miles, I was gonna drain the trans and send the fluid off to Blackstone to get tested but at this point I'll do that once I pull the pan. What would y'all suggest with this transmissions known problems? Thank you

Edit: Every now and then especially when cold I do get a knocking noise that I haven't been able to narrow down but I believe its coming from the transmission, and sometimes only happens when in reverse and under throttle

 

Is this a test? OEM of course.

 

I sure did. It could have come out on the drive. But kind of makes sense why the new steering rack failed 4 months after they installed it.

 

Picked these up. Shipping rates fucking suck this day and age. A 27 dollar purchase became a 47 dollar purchase real quick.



@Mr.bee put me onto these. Hopefully they'll hold up.

 

Do you know what brand of torque converter was used? I'd suspect that over other things.

IPT makes upgraded transmission parts.

When was the trans fluid last replaced? Have you tried any additives like shudder guard or lucas trans?

 

In what way? Like DC headlights?

 

I’ll have to poke back at the receipt, I couldn’t get one from Toyota so I picked up one from a local place in town Shows Transmission Parts; after the shudder started again I threw some shudder stop back in it to stop the shudder for the time being. Haven’t changed the fluid but it did get partially flushed when I did the tc; I need to look at the records from the previous owner to see if he did