Need towing advice

Hey y'all, tried to read through some of the threads in this section but still had a few questions. I do apologize if these questions have been previously answered and I just missed it. I have a 2020 Crew Max Tundra that I commonly use to tow an 18ft tandem axle trailer and a 16 ft dump trailer for my landscaping/mowing business. I've found that the truck tows horribly, squats, and does not handle well at all while towing as compared to other half-tons and some 3/4 ton diesels I've ridden in and driven. The truck currently has a 2.5" level in the front with Icon 2.5 RR coilovers, total chaos UCA, and 2.5 piggyback resi rear shocks with what I believe is a one-inch block (previous owner installed so not sure about the block size). I do use my truck to drive dirt roads and on ranches with no roads commonly so would like to still retain as much suspension travel as possible. Would y'all recommend different leaf packs, bags, etc? Would like to spend as little as possible to work within my 17-year-old budget lol. Thank y'all

 

Get yourself a Roadmaster Active Suspension HD kit. When you can afford it, get 5.29 differential gears installed.

 

I'll look into that thank you

 

BTW, if not already done, add an aftermarket or OEM auxillary transmission cooler. I used a Hayden HD unit with OEM thermostat, tubes and hoses.

 

that's definitely on the list. Normally not towing for very long so haven't had an issue with trans temp yet but will address in it the near future

 

100% i'd get airbags since you still want that soft ride down bumpy roads. I haven't used RAS before but a lot of people seem to like them

I have firestone bags with daystar cradles, i keep them at 5psi when unloaded and about 40 when towing our travel trailer. I started off with a little cigarette lighter air compressor with a 7pin trailer adapter to 12v cigarette lighter plug and aired the bags up that way. Now i have an onbord compressor with a remote. Never have to get out of the truck to air up/down.

 

The Tundra’s fantastic rear suspension articulation and travel comes at the cost of squat when you hook up a trailer.

I also did RAS HD. It’s the sweet spot between load-bearing stiffness and off-roading articulation you’re looking for.

PS: I previously had Firestone airbags with daystar cradles, and I found them to be too bouncy when unloaded, even with only 5psi in the bags. I tried lots of different psi to no avail.

 

I'll have to research more into the bags vs RAS systems. Not in a huge rush as the kid I work with has an F250 6.7 we can use for the larger trailers but would like to be able to tow better when I do some work alone

 

When the truck was leveled and the rake was taken out it makes the truck tow much worse. Now when you hook your trailer up it lifts the front taking weight off the front axels making it more difficult to steer and less weight disturbed to the front. With the rake in it the front isn't lifted keeping the steering how it should be and allowing the suspension to work properly.

 

A weight distribution hitch would be helpful once you get up around 4k+ trailer weights

 

I've still got roughly .5 inch to 1 inch of rake. Would it be worth adding a little?

 

Would there be any worth in a new leaf pack either OEM or aftermaket? Pretty sure the previous owner hauled and towed regularly due to the wear on the receiver, chain mounts, and condition of the bed/ned liner upon purchase. I've briefly looked into the Icon, Alcan, and deaver packs but don't know if those would help or hurt towing

 

Weight distribution hitch. The rest will help, but the hitch is a required for both safety and the majority of the work.

Those trailers aren't small by themselves, and you aren't really saying what you are loading on/in them. The WDH is your first answer and will restore more rake, but more importantly, restore steering force.

 

will definitely look into one. Normally hauling 2 zero turn mowers, blowers, weed eaters, push mowers on the 18ft. Dump trailer is normally mulch, rock or dirt, but the amount varies depending on the job

 

Yeah, new HD packs are the best option. That said, they come at a cost and are a little bit more challenging to install. I used Dobinson's HD packs on my truck in conjunction with Ironman greasable shackles, RAS HD kit, and yellow Sumo springs, plus BDS traction bars to avoid axle wrap. She don't squat much with a good ton plus at the rear and there is no flattening my leaf packs, zero axle wrap and binding of u joints at takeoff.

 

That is what I used in my tacoma. I used Alcan but Deaver makes a great leaf pack as well. Lew at Alcan will build you a pack to suit you. After 30 minutes on the phone he built me a progressive pack that kept my truck feeling normal when it was not towing, but felt great when it was towing.

 

give or take what did that run you? Just trying to get a ballpark idea of what they'll run me. Any idea if I can use different leaf springs in conjunction with the RAS kit, or is it even needed once I have new leafs?

 

If your current springs aren't trashed, the RAS will save them (and save you about 50%). Get the WDH first, then see what else you need/want.

 

If you're asking me, I spent about $3500 on rear suspension with shocks added in. Zero regrets.

 

New leafs aren't cheap or easy and I load my truck a little heavy sometimes. So for me, RAS is insurance against damage for the leaf packs and a guarantee that I can have focused headlights at night.