02 Tundra starter replacement

Hey everyone, I'm preparing for a starter replacement. O2 Tundra, 4.7.... 1st question... which starter should I purchase? Trying to save some money but don't want to go back in there again. Also gonna replace knock sensors and it looks like the intake gaskets and throttle body gasket....

suggestions on starters.....brand? I do appreciate any help I can get

 

Rules of thumb:

1. If the job is going to take you more than 1hr, or requires you to replace other things once you have stuff open, always use the OEM brand. OEM brands for electronics and mechanicals are usually Denso and Aisin. But there are some others, like Advics for brakes, Sumitomo for other things, Spicer or Koyo for misc bearings, Hitachi for the MAF.
2. If it's an electronic component, like a sensor, a pump, an alternator, or a starter, use OEM brand, typically Denso in most cases. This is especially true with starter and fuel pump, which take 1-2 hours minimum, and with things that are critical to operation like coil packs, O2 sensors, coolant sensors, MAF, crank and camshaft position sensors, IAT sensor, etc.
3. If it's a gasket, only OEM or FelPro if you just can't stomach paying the extra for OEM - this is one of those places where too many people have found out the hard way, especially with intake manifold gaskets on the earlier model trucks, DO NOT trust aftermarket. I don't want to see how many times bmf4069 had to replace his intake gasket, I think he's on the 3rd one now, and that one may be failing too?
4. Never order parts on scAmazon or fleaBay, knockoffs/counterfeits are a thing, a thing that happens far too often.

If you follow the guidelines above, chances are, when you replace the part it'll last another 20+ years.

You'll want to get a new intake gasket for when you pop off the manifold. Specifically, the gaskets that sit between the block and intake, not the one that may be sandwiched between (I know my manifold is 2pcs, at least, dunno on your non-VVTi).

Go with the Denso "cold weather" starter (2.0 kW instead of 1.4 kW). Look up the part number using the part finder @ https://www.densoautoparts.com (I want to say it's this one, but you confirm)

 

Perfect.... thank you.. it's a good starting point. I've been looking on Rock Auto and there's lots of choices... I'll study up some more and see what questions I come up with... THANK YOU

 

Honestly, if I could point you at anyone to give advice on the job it'd probably be @KNABORES. He's had his out once or twice IIRC, or once, and needs to do it again soon.

 

Would you go with ordering like this or should I rely on My local auto parts store since I know very little about what I'm buying online?

 

Ooops. Adding the gasket...

 

I'd go through with ordering it like that. That's the same part number I found for a 2002 AC with V8 at Denso's site, so as long as you have a V8 that should be the one.

Only last note I'd add is, if you're buying this because you're having starting issues, quite often it isn't the starter at all. You've got some dudes on here with 200k-300k miles on the original starter.

 

And for the gaskets, you really only need the lower. I'll be curious to see how the FelPro work out for you on that. I'm sure @bmf4069 is probably curious too

 

So lower gaskets only... I see nothing labeled own... i see its, victor Renee.? And Ajusa.. trying to do this in a phone sorta sucks never I should take out the laptop...

 

Stick with Felpro, and just skip doing the uppers.

Or go to the Toyota Parts site and order directly from your local (or a remote, lower-cost) dealership. That way you only get the lower left and lower right. Cost may be about the same.

 

One last question before I start buying parts... I need 2 knock / detonation sensors correct?

 

You can get Toyota lower intake manifold gaskets for less than the Felpro kit shipped from PartSouq (shipped from Dubai). And they will probably arrive before the RA order.


Yes, there are two knock sensors in the 2UZ.

 

I believe there are two, and I'm going by what I saw in @bmf4069's pics when he was up in his junk. Are you throwing codes, or is this a preemptive thing?

 

From the '03 FSM, 2UZ-FE pages (although the V6 also appears to have two).

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If you're going to have your manifold off, why not replace the upper gasket as well? Could be a good time to clean up all the oil that sits in the manifold that gets passed through the PCV valve. A catch can fixes this, but it doesn't take long to replace it and you'll have the added benefit of things being clean.

Clean everything up as well as you can with compressed air before you remove the manifold. Want to keep as much dirt as possible from dropping down the ports/valves. Once off, make sure to plug up those ports or tape them off. Then, when ready to re-install, blow some compressed air in the ports to clean it all up for peace of mind.

Also, make sure to orient the gaskets the correct way when replacing. As seen on the mud forums https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/intake-manifold-gasket-failure.1283773/:

 

Also forgot to add, those vent hoses clip into the top of the starter and the clips that go into the starter are very easily broken. I broke one once when installing and had to remove/replace the vent hose. Just don't bend them too much or lean on them and you'll be good.

 

I'd also add: Clean the living shit out of the beefy starter ground and block where it connects, then hit it with dielectric grease before buttoning up.

I'm fairly sure some issues we see people have with no-start situations are because that specific ground is getting fucked. EDIT: I believe it may be the heavy duty bolt to the right of the starter in @TET1's image.

 

Oh DAMnnnnnn. Thanks .! This is what I was hoping for.... I'm sitting in front of my auto parts store right now..... yes not doing Rock Auto.... rather have it correct and sooner...

Another question.... and I think this may be a girl at the counter who's talking crazy to me... she says she needs to know if my truck has the cold weather pkg.... cause the starters look different..... lol. I say NO they don't and please give me the 2.0 cold weather one!! I just want to make sure she's not correct. Or else she needs to stop giving BS information

 

It has 2 knock sensors. And I will get the complete set of gaskets and clean it well....

 

Others on here have installed the cold weather starter 2.0 versus 1.4 with no issue.

Test before you continue. Last person who bought a parts store starter on here had a DOA part. And sadly buttoned it up, then found out the hard way. You're a brave man going parts store brands! (Unless it's NAPA, I know they sell Denso sometimes)

 

2 knock sensors, yes. And OEM or Felpro ONLY. cold weather package comes with, i believe, a 2kw starter. Denso only on the starter as well. If you need help tag me. I gotta go give a speech about how I fucked up my brakes.

 

It is Napa.

 

Toyota here in Eureka says they only have Re manufactured... but us considered OES... $263 ...Napa has Denso $212 Autozone has 100 percent new duralast gold for $162

 

Okay Toyota everywhere is saying there not sure about the 2.0 vs 1.4 and that they need the original part number off the old starter.... yea. Probably not gonna happen. I'm sure the experience here counts for something.... like common sense and actually knowing how to do the job vs just talking nonsense over the phone making it super confusing and now I'm doubting myself on pulling the trigger. So it's either Napa and Denso or reman. From Toyota..... hopefully 2.0 cold weather doesn't fry something in my old truck?

 

Denso reman should be fine, and if it doesn't get super cold where you're at the 1.4kw should be fine as well. My truck started at 0°F with a 1.4kw starter with 300k miles on it.

 

Responded to your PM. I believe I have the 1.4kw and have never had an issue with it. Don’t get too tied up in specs. Likely just need to replace the contacts, but depends on your situation. My starter currently will just click sometimes, then when I try to start it again, it will fire off just like normal. Contacts again I’m sure.

 

1.4 is fine. DO NOT BUY THE STORE BRAND. Denso only. You will get burned. We get so tired of handing out this warning. We've seen it. Don't do it.

 

Are you getting the click of death. If so you can probably just get a Denso rebuild kit and replace the burned copper contacts in the solenoid. The motor section is pretty bullet proof.