General Supercharger Thread

Silly me, looked in GB/deals

Thanks

 

Not too bad.

eBay is the go to place for specialized parts.

Driver's side components can be rarer, because obviously there is always a driver. If there isn't the part one week, there will be one next week.

 

Any tips on sliding the driver side downpipe out? Damn cross bar directly in the way with the curve to cat back making it almost impossible

 

Remove your prop shaft and it'll be easier... that's why passenger side is best...

 

Thank you sir! Or cut the mutha lol

 

You might also have better luck thru driver side wheel well behind liner...might....

 

Yeah that fucker is trapped in there good with the bend. I take a look at the liner but looks like PS removal is a clear winner.

 

I used my transmission jack to support the transmission and took the crossmember out.

 

I had to cut mine right at the weld behind the cat. On jack stands, there just isn't enough height from the floor. Took me an hour of fighting it before I realized there just wasn't anyway around cutting (or removing the cross member, which I didn't want to do with jack stands right near it). Good luck

 

Yeah after fumbling and looking at the prop shaft the work involved is much after a long days of work.......so cut time lol

 

Well God damn honeycomb just rattling out. No carbon build up/soot build up I believe the cat simply fell apart and failed. Guess mad boost just blew it apart no wonder my shit was a bitch to tune lol

 

I've never been a believer that running rich ruins the cats. Hell, the truck specifically runs richer to protect the cats, I don't see why running super rich for a few seconds would somehow destroy them. Like you said, I'd be more suspicious of the added airflow being the issue--assuming it can even be traced to the trucks new configuration and it wasn't already on the way out to begin with.

 

I had a bone stock trailblazer with the 4.2 straight six that did the exact same thing to the cat at 110k miles. It was like that when I bought so I don't really know what the previous owner did to it, but when they told me it basically carted the kids a mile or two to school everyday and occasionally pulled a small trailer. My guess was it rarely got out of open loop, running rich. It averaged 7k miles a year. Had an inexpensive aftermarket Magnaflow cat welded in and the CEL disappeared even though it still stunk a little on a cold morning.

But according to Sniv, I'm dead wrong haha.

 

Agreed!

 

Now do other side to match...ha

 

Cleared all the broken shit out, it was a total blockage. To my surprise it was very clean, no soot, just a little discoloration at the start of comb. I could even breathe through the broken pieces with ease lol. Even the insulation on the back side was clean. Looks to me like it was simply blown apart. The second cat is clean as a whistle. I think in my case it was a simple a failure. Maybe the cycle of cooling and getting hot as shit with the blower pushing all the extra air. Not because it was to rich imo

 

I'm on it sir!

 

Pass side was a delight compared with driver side! Cats are good on that DP. I may break out the first cat pass side, spacer it and leave both secondary cats to hold me over until the SPD DPs shows, thanks @Silver17 for head up life saver! But since I cut the curve off the Driver side it'll and can't remount cat back itll probably so God damn loud it'll be unbearable to drive

 

Found these cleaning up my bookmarks:
https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-cam-set-4-3ur-fe-v8-stage-2/

No mention of gains just significant.

 

Didn't @ViktorG regrind some cams for the 5.7? I seem to remember the gains being almost nil, but that may have been NA instead of SC'd.

 

I'm pretty sure he did test cams with no gains.

Edit: Not clear the cams were tested at the higher RPMs.

 

Will an exhaust clamp fit over it?

 

Sell the insides. People steal our cats all the time because supposedly they have precious metals in them. I know Toyota charges an arm and a leg for new pipes. There must be something good in them.

 

You just gave me the final push to order mine as well lol. Good chance this could happen to me too, so may as well buy them on sale while I can.

 

That's a very good point, I don't see why not! I did cut it close to the secondary cat but for temporary I should be able to finagle a clamp in there. Thank you for the genius idea I may still be able to go camping

 

Yes sir I'd say thats a good idea. Plus the extra power without 4 damn cats like stock is worth it.

 

I believe palladium and platinum.....maybe I'll melt it down and make a chain

 

One thing to note is according to Holdener if a cam makes power NA it will make more power with a FI.

 

That makes sense. I also seem to recall Holdener saying there’s no such thing as a turbo cam or a blower cam - basically for the above mentioned reason.

One thing I wonder about new cams for the truck… it’s all part of a power equation. One mod often compliments another mod. The same pulley can perform better with a larger intake or different exhaust, for example. The cams you listed above note that increased power is had above 6500 rpm where airflow requirements are increased above what a stock truck would need in virtually any situation. So unless you have a much higher flowering intake AND exhaust, the cams would be useless (assuming you have a block built to handle the additional 1000 rpm needed to achieve that power).

Basic CFM calculators for our engine size sans SC say the truck wants 510 cfm for street applications to 6000rpm and 600 cfm for street applications at 7000 rpm. That’s a 14% increase in rpm but a 19% increase in cfm. For a racing engine, it recommends an additional 100 cfm on top of that.

To further complicate the matter, boost at 6psi requires almost DOUBLE the cfm for a 6000 rpm redline at 800-1000 cfm.

So all of that heads to the point of: how much power is being left on the table when it comes to intake and exhaust on these SC trucks? And what would be the trade offs of be if opening both of those up? How badly could/would it affect drivability in the lower to midband? I’m not asking WHICH exhaust or intake works best - simply looking at the engine as an air pump and wanting to get the most air in and out. And, being FI, does the cam profile even matter that much at 6000 rpm and below?

 

I'd like to think I'm a good example of worst case scenario.

stock intake
stock exhaust (TRD)

80mm pulley(harrop) netted me 477whp. 518tq

you could see on my graph when my power starts to lay over at around 5k, when others kept going up. which was the majority of the difference.