Rotella 10w 30?

I suck at searching here. Is the Rotella10w30 or 15w40 ok in my 2003 with 175K?
Thanks

 

Neither of the Rotella oils you list have a gasoline engine rating. I would skip them.

In the past, they were dual rated (diesel and gasoline) but that is no longer the case.

 

@AWilliams, what is your desired goal? Like, what are you effectively trying to achieve?

 

Changing my oil. Wanting to see if I can do it cheaper than the oil changer places.

 

Just use name brand 5w-30 synthetic, dealer

$32 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

90915-YZZD3 filter (also at walmart for a little more $), and you’ll be ahead.

YZZD3 is the V8 filter. If V6, filter is 90915-YZZG2.

 

You can do it way cheaper than the oil change places all day if you have a Costco membership, for sure. But you can also get there without. Still...

Costco brand Kirkland 5w30 full-syn is 10qt (2x5qt) jugs for $29, you only need 6.5qt to do a full oil change on the V8. The oil is made by Warren. General consensus on the BITOG forum is, "it's good oil". With that and OEM filters, if you buy two boxes, you're at $60 and have enough oil for 3 oil changes. Add in around $2-3 for an OEM filter, and you'll be in for about 1/2 what any place charges for full synthetic oil change, potentially with recycled or cheap, inferior oil, for three oil change cycles at around $23-25/ea.

Just stick with the OEM oil filters ... Toyota specifically designed them for this 2UZ-FE engine with the intent to run 1 million miles. I'm a huge fan of Wix, but you can't argue with Toyota's success with OEM air and oil filters. It shows on the dyno, and it shows in longevity stats. They just make legitimately great filters specifically designed for the engine they're going for, with the intent to maintain their reputation for reliability.

But really, I'd also ask: Is this a place you want to cheap-out? On the life blood of your engine?

 

Let me just put this out there. Oil change/quick lube shops don't make a lot of $$$ off the oil changes. They make more off selling you filters and fluids.

Like the @shifty` said and I'll reiterate; do you REALLY wanna go as cheap as possible with this? At the very least everybody does their own labor to save $$$ but cheating out on the lubricant that keeps your engine alive is a recipe for disaster.

I go to Walmart. Buy some decent oil. I use Valvoline. My Walmart carries toyota OEM filters. So I'm covered there. Maybe yours does too?

don't ruin your truck to save a buck. These things cost A LOT of $$$ right now

 

Walmart is where I used to get my oil, usually order online, either for in-store pickup or sometimes free delivery. I can usually get the big jugs of 5w30 full-syn Mobile 1 "high mile" oil for cheap enough. I was able to get 6qt at Costco for around $40, IIRC, it was a little cheaper than the 5Qt at Wallyworld.

Any time Toyota is having a deal at their national parts order site, I'll buy a half dozen or so oil filters. I think the cheapest price I've managed to get is in the $1.xx range per filter. Their MSRP shows $5.97 but when I click "Shop this dealer" on the participating dealers near me, it's at $4 even, which is as-cheap or way cheaper than any premium filters out there. The only thing you'll get cheaper is shit-tastic gargabe filters like FRAM, Champion, etc. My go-to is typically M1 or Wix on previous vehicles and those are typically $7-8 for the this V8.

 

Thanks for the replies...I never said I wanted to cheap out on the oil or filter, I was looking to save some money by doing it myself. Big difference. And Rotella used to be the shit. Everyone ran it in everything. I ran it in my diesel, in my race quad, my wife's quad, in my Tacoma....not too long ago.

 

You stated 10w30 and 15w40 So atleast Run the proper weight oil. Unless you're in some extreme conditions

 

*noted*...thanks again.

 

Rotella has its time and place. I'd use it for cleaning out a block if I know there was abuse prior, but I've since switched up.

But let's be real: What's more important to than your oil choice:

• Changing oil based on age (12mos max age) if you can't hit at least 3,500 miles in a year
• Avoiding short-trip driving as much as humanly possible, and if you cannot avoid it, changing your oil at smaller intervals to compensate for premature breakdown caused by short-trip driving
• Using a quality filter as recommended by your OEM, to ensure compatibility and longevity
• Opting for a synthetic versus dino to avoid buildup and varnish and in the correct weight (5w30 for us)
• Using known-positive additives toward the end of your oil life cycle, within the last couple hundo miles or so before your oil change for more effective buildup removal over time, in smaller increments

I've seen engine internals that ran shitbrand generic synthetic oil their whole life on regular OC intervals look better than engines using premium dino oil and even premium full syn oil like Royal Purple changed solely on mileage numbers.

Just follow the first 4 bullets above, and forego any added expense. Oil changes are easy, 15min job in most vehicles. No reason to waste an hour and the extra $$ at a shop. Just learn what the proper frequency is and make it happen.

 

Oh and, let's be honest, if you look up "Rotella" on against my username on this forum, you'll probably find replies of me mulling over the same, wanting to reduce varnish I found in my top-end, because 1st owner of my truck was a short-trip-aholic.

What I'd tell you now is, after almost a dozen oil changes, with regular Seafoam treatments for the last ~500mi before I do my OC, my top-end is much cleaner. I've gone from brownish-red buildup on the heads to honey-caramel in the worst places. I really should break out the snake came and shoot pics up in my driver's side head for a before/after here in the near future...

 

edit...Nevermind....I don't want the shit storm...

 

Go for it. Worst that can happen is you'll get some constructive criticism.

Rule of thumb gist on OC interval: Change every 3,500 - 5,000 miles OR every 12 months, with that mile range being [dino - synthetic].

If you're a long-hauler with lots of miles in a month and running full-syn, I'd be comfortable doing up to 6,500-7,500 miles as long as it doesn't take more than 12 months. I know some oils guarantee 10k-15k miles and I've even seen new cars tout 20k mile intervals. I don't buy it.

Petroleum products age-out, especially with weather/seasonal temp cycles on it.

 

I don't want the finger waggling. I can see it now..lol

 

Oh alright, I'll ask it. How old is your oil?

Come on now, we're all friends!

 

Thanks guys

 

Cool thing I learned. If you idle a lot

most companies consider 1hour of idle to about 30-33miles of actual driving miles.

 

This is what this forum is for. There's a lot of years of experience and knowledge about these trucks here.

 

Pleaseeeee I've gone like 7-8k before I changed my shit LOL


I do NOT recommend. But yea it'll make it if you're in a bind

 

Mobil 1 Extended Performance (?) is supposed to be good for 20k miles. If you are stretching the interval, I would choose that.

8,000 to 10,000 miles on most modern synthetic oils is not even close to being an issue, so long as you aren't short tripping all the time. Make sure your PCV valve is working properly.

Now, some of these newer cars with direct injection diluting the fuel like an old quadrajet, 5k max and that might be a stretch.

 

Sheeeeet. I don't even wanna think about how long I've gone in the past. When I was a single-ish vagabond, without a garage or family, livin' paycheck to paycheck... I pushed the envelope something fierce.

 

I think we all have in a pinch. Obviously, there's ideal and there's not.

My original owner on the truck was the worst:

• Short trip driving, like 5-10ish minutes each way to and from work at slow speeds
• Changed oil based on miles, so OC was maybe every 2-3 years
• Only got oil changes at Jiffy Lube places with the cheapest price possible, using recycled oil

My heads at 70k miles were a testament to what that does to an engine. I posted pics on here when I did my valve covers. My valve covers were CAKED with charred-to-crisp oil. It literally looked like the black chunks that end up on BBQ skin-on chicken if you grill it for too long, big crispy chunks. Valvetrain was brown at the back of the valve cover, like a quart of wood varnish was dumped on it. It took me longer to clean it all out than to change my valve cover gaskets!

Learn from his mistake: Decide if you need to be a [time] or [mileage] interval based on your driving habits/mileage/oil type (dino/full-syn). Stick to the regimen of [time] or [mileage] above as-needed. Stick with OEM filters for oil and air, changed at appopriate intervals. Your engine will thank you, and probably last a million miles or more, as Toyota intended.

 

For sure. I'm finally getting my wife on board with an oil change every 3-5 months. A 2018 Rav4's oil change is kinda bullshit. Me no likey.

 

ok...almost 2.5 years on the oil change. Maybe 4k miles though. Sunday driver. Lost track of the time.

 

Do you get it out on the highway for a long drive (30+ miles) every few weeks? Getting the oil and engine up to temp helps a lot.

Make sure your PCV valve is working.

 

I have a friend like that. But he pays close attention. He never hits the recommended mileage, so he changes his oil about once a year. But he tracks it, pays attention, makes sure it gets done. Oil is such a simple, cheap, unsexy thing. It just does its job. But if it can't do its job because of age or mileage, the engine eats itself. How long before an engine destroys itself if you get antifreeze mixing with oil? Not long at all.

 

Correction... Saturday driver. 35 minutes to work each way. Freeway speeds 3/4 of the way there.I've been much better in the past, just this one got away from me. I looked at the window sticker on the windshield from the changer place and my heart sank. Doing this isn't a habit by any means.

 

It's all good. No judgement! I just wouldn't go cheap. I use the same oil @shifty` mentioned, tried a few others and the Mobil 1 seems to run things smoother.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-...MI3f2o9LihhgMV4witBh0KIgs5EAQYASABEgLSU_D_BwE