What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No biggie hahah I’m just xcited to see how it turns out. Maybe some orange highlights?

 

Lol. Maybe but probably not

 

I got the switches and a cig lighter. Come by the house. I’m doing yard work today. I went to the PYP

 

Good finds. Another time

 

Looks like I found it. They sell the supports separately thankfully.

 

How difficult is it to change out a steering wheel for one of these fancy limited ones like Jerry’s?

 

Depends on how much time you want to invest. https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-steering-wheel-radio-phone-controls-info-dump.131492/
2nd reply covers most of it, links out to threads where others have done it. You'll need a new airbag cover, re-pin some things in/out of the clockspring, and maybe a controls adapter box if you're running an aftermarket head unit. It's do-able.

 

Nice thanks. New airbag cover? Wiring to aftermarket stereo was my main concern till I learned of needing a new airbag cover lol

 

Nice work @jerryallday. That looks sweet @shifty`. It's in great shape!

Still looking for a replacement for the original base as the sides are still good in mine. Might just have to swap/fab the OE zipper onto a replacement Bedrug universal drop in mat.

 

It’s the trickiest part for me.

 

I'm tired
Kayak rack and ditch lights done

 

Wash and wax. Tried to polish it but it’s way too hot out for that

 

Which part and how did you get it done?

 

I flushed my brake fluid and have a question. The first time, I definitely got air in the lines by not using my pressure bleeder correctly. Brakes were spongy. So I went back in to bleed them, using the bleeder correctly (tight seal, primed with pressure before opening bleeder valves). On the rear wheels and the front passenger, I can get to where I don't see any bubbles coming out. But on the driver side front, it's just a steady stream of bubbles with fluid.

I can pump and pump and pump, and go through an entire 32oz bottle of brake fluid, and still a bunch of bubbles. The brakes feel better than they did, but I need to do a true test drive tomorrow to be sure. I'm almost positive I'm not grabbing air from around the pressure bleeder connections or where the bleeder connects to the truck bleeder valve. When I pull the tube off the bleeder valve there's a large vacuum pressure release, so it seems like my seal is good. Where's all this air coming from??

 

May be easier (especially for 1 person bleeding) to just use tubing attached to bleed nipple running into a container and submerged in brake fluid then opening nipple at caliper / cylinder and pumping it out while keeping reservoir topped off (prefer to put container on ground to avoid it falling and making a mess). If the reservoir runs dry can introduce air into system. Are your rears adjusted correctly? If not can contribute to spongy feeling due to distance of shoe travel.

https://www.1aauto.com/how-to-bleed-your-brakes-by-yourself/video/46296

 

Gah damn that looks good. Looks better than the new Tundras. LOL

 

They were feeling great before the flush.

I started out, the second time, doing what you describe, but for some reason I didn't like it. Decided to try a tighter attachment supplied with my vacuum kit, instead of just the hose, and try the vacuum pump again. The hose by itself fit snug, but I definitely got air around it so it was hard to tell when the bubbles were out of the system. With the attachment, I always heard a hiss when I took it off the bleeder valve so I think I had a good seal.

If they still feel spongy tomorrow, I'll go back to pumping the brake pedal with a hose and tighter attachment on the valve, into a cup.

Thanks.

 

I'll loop you in on a convo with another member who may be able to help.

A little lube on your fitting may be worthwhile just to keep air from seeping in between the rubber and fitting. Just sayin'. Clean your bleeder with a shop cloth, swipe a little Superlube or brake lube or similar on it, then slap on your fitting.

Bubbles being present aren't always you getting bubbles out of the system. Sometimes it's air being pulled in from 'tween the fitting and bleeder metal.

 

So we replaced my axle seat with OEM yesterday and this afternoon I noticed oil on the driveway ob the driver side. Mother fuck! I wonder if I need a new CV? It wasn't leaking when we tipped off the diff yesterday and we didn't see any after the test drive. Granted it could've been dripping on the skid plate. There was a slight gap on the driver CV where it mates to the front diff. Passenger side doesn't have the gap. But we rammed the shit outta the driver CV and couldn't get it to go that last 1/4".
Also the truck is still making the noises, albeit not quite as loud after the new front bearings. Still getting the whine over 40mph and the wah-wahs when I let off the gas .

 

@bmf4069 may have some input on this. I've heard similar from others, and suggestion of slight emory on the splines to help. But I haven't had to do it myself.

 

thanks man there’s some busted clear coat on the ridges of the door and top of the fender but the paint that is there is pretty nice. The hood and roof are in tact and swirl and clear coat is great. I try to seal it to keep it from going away any further. Polishing a turd but she’s my turd!

 

Emory?

 

That gap has to be there. The axle is always spinning, the differential is not. Which side is leaking? One side is easy to mess up if you don't drive the new seal in the correct depth. It's been discussed a lot.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/leaking-axle-seal.70333/#post-1816660

That sucks. If the bearings are new I wonder what it would be.

 

Driver side seal.

As for the noises...
Casey thinks maybe the pinion bearing.
So far I've replaced the front wheel bearings and the carrier bearing. I'm pretty much too broke for truck parts for a while. But I've already got the parts to do the rear bearings in the future. In a few months I'm going to take it to the guy that did my gears and front bearings and let him test drive it, then go from there. Luckily it's basically the off season now. Too hot to camp and higher risk of overheating while offroading. So the truck will continue to sit for a while. Sucks that I haven't wheeled since October.

 

See update:
Front Diff Actuator Breather

 

Have you tested if the sound goes away when in 4Hi? Does the sound get louder when loading the front wheel bearings during a turn (probably not if just swapped them)?

To trace the various possibilities including pinion bearing, if pull the front brake pads can spin front wheels faster and eliminate brake pad noise then use stethoscope with contact at knuckle, diff, transfer, center bearing, rear diff and rear wheel bearings, etc to pinpoint sound more. Also can grab the front strut and feel for vibration when spinning wheel.

Something to consider is that rear wheel bearing noise can sound deceivingly nondirectional like it is coming from the front of the truck when sitting in the cab.

Tracing sound on my truck that seemed like front driver side wheel bearing or the typical needle bearing issue because that's where was sitting when hearing it while driving...actually traced to right rear wheel bearing noise. Traced it carefully with all four wheels off the ground and at idle speed with rear wheels spinning. Using mechanics ears (stethoscope) could hear the bearing clicking/grinding at the rear axle housing by the wheel, but not as loud at center of rear diff. Also could get slightest bit of vertical play when grabbing wheel and articulating.

Just swapped the rear wheel bearing and that solved the wah-wah noise that is gone now in the cab that sure had thought was a front wheel bearing or driver side diff needle bearing.

 

I'm hoping it's the rear bearings since I already bought the parts the last big Toyota parts sale. The needle bearing was replaced with the ECGS bushing a few years back.

I have not put it in 4wd since October. I meant to yesterday on the test drive, but forgot. I'll try that when I get back to town next week.


Thank you for all the tips.

 

That's right you did the ECGS bushing already so doubt you should have any "needle bearing" type noise and expect you'll find engaging 4Hi makes no difference in the reducing noise.

I also bought the rear wheel bearing parts proactively for the other axle (left) ... so looks like we'll both be doing those around the same time. Working on a write up on the rear wheel bearing just completed (right), but basically ended up with the retainer placement at about 3mm of polished surface like @remington351 after grease testing to get a little more contact on the retainer than from the factor, and without contacting the axle housing:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/recent-axle-seal-tips-hints-and-prayers.92986/#post-2345610

 

I haven’t solved. I have grey (not moon mist) wheel and bag in a box waiting for me to try it out. But my seats are already the wrong grey so I hesitate. Honestly I’d probably prefer it if I could replace my katzkin with moon mist but that seems like a pipe dream. Or go all black but I’m never going to find all the interior trim.

I also have a black airbag cover and wheel but the airbag cover doesn’t match well. From what I’ve been told, black single stage airbags don’t exist so I’d have to do a dual stage and swap the charge or swap just the cover.

 

Nothing major, but today I changed the batteries in my key fobs (fobs, plural, take that 3rd gen!). Yesterday, I went to unlock my truck with the second fob that never gets used. Nothing, dead battery. I thought this was odd because I thought I remembered changing them about a year and a half ago. And my primary fob works fine, how could the back up fob be dead? I cracked both of the open and the primary fob had an Energizer battery, while the backup had a Panasonic battery. This let me know that at the last battery change, I only changed the primary. Probably because "Eh, I never use the backup fob so the battery should still be good." Lesson learned.