Blown engine

Same. Errr. Actually 800 and 2k.

now every 3k to 5k.

 

So I was watching the Tinkerer's Adventure video on the Lexus where he was showing the wear and was wondering if 0W-20 was too thin for the engine based on wear on that.

Another thought was how much the stop-start function could play into this as well. If the engine shuts down and the oil is draining out all the time every stop/ start would be essentailly a cold start with 20 weight oil leaving minimal residue behind.

I have been checking out the Lake Speed videos as well- and also read the 540 Rat blog on oil stuff- not claiming to be an expert, however, it can be easy to spot trends sometimes...

Until I know I wont nuke my warrnty, I will continue with 0W-20 every 5k miles, and a Toyota filter, but I am thinking 5w-30 would be a good move- especially since the engine is spec-ed in foregin markets as you stated. (12/23 build date "standard" powertrain)

Thank you for all of your work on tracking these failures and helping us navigate them.

 

Switch to Red Line 0w20, it is quite a bit thicker than Toyota 0w20.

 

Yeah I changed out the "factory" oil at 1400 and went with Quaker State Full Synthetic 0w20 (RatRod review/ rating). I think 5w-30 would be much better though.

 

I just read through all 7 pages and like many here, I recently changed my oil early at 800 miles. With that said, I was a little shocked at how dirty the oil was with only 800 and some change on the odometer. What does that mean? Probably nothing but thought I would mention for those contemplating changing the oil early. I used 0W-20 per the manual but may consider transitioning to 5W-30 next oil change which I will do around 3k miles (at 1326 miles currently).

For what it's worth, I purchased an '18 and '22 Ford Raptor and both had significant issues. The '18 was very problematic with tranny and electrical issues. I thought I would try again in '22 and the build quality was much worse with even more issues. So, I thought I would purchase a '23 GMC AT4X and after 24 hours of ownership, I returned to the selling dealership as I noticed all 4 doors had paint peeling from the bottom edges (honestly, how many of us look at the bottom of doors when purchasing a new truck?). Because I am an idiot and really liked the interior/exterior of the AT4X, I then drove several hours to Vermont to purchase another one with the mindset of surely lightening can't strike twice. Sure enough, upon inspecting the vehicle before purchasing, it too was peeling paint. The dealer stated they would be happy to remove all 4 doors and repaint under warranty, and I said no thanks. Lastly, I got rid of my '19 Ram 1500 fairly quickly due to faulty camshaft lifters.

Bottom line, I feel that vehicle build quality has greatly diminished in the past 5-6 years with all manufacturers including almighty Toyota. Further, due to emission constraints and lack of quality personnel working at assembly plants (yes I said it), the result is vehicles built with lower tolerances and sub-par quality control. How in the heck does the GMC make it out of the Saltillo Mexico plant with paint peeling on the doors? It's no secret that US manufacturing facilities are struggling to find reliable and qualified employees who WANT to work (if you have a heartbeat, most places will hire you as they are desperate). Moreover, America has become VERY lazy, and the resulting poorly assembled products are the end result.

Sorry for the long post but simply wanted to add some insight. My 2-month-old Toyota TRD Pro has a rattling center console, rattling headliner, and tailgate misaligned. I hope I can fix these issues and really hope the dreaded bearing issue doesn't rear it's ugly head on my rig. But, I purchased the Tundra as I do feel it's the best 1/2 ton option right now with arguably the best manufacturer support if/when needed. However, I do not feel confident in my Tundra like I did my '11 Land Cruiser, '07 Lexus LX470, and '15 4Runner. Admittedly, after reading this post and others on the internet, I have considered trading (again) for a 200 series cruiser or even a 2.5 Tundra. Historically, part of what has always made me happy about owning a Toyota product has been the confident and secure feeling of owning a reliable vehicle regardless of the missing technology (change oil, basic maintenance, and drive for 300k miles....repeat). I no longer feel that way.

 

My 2 cents.
When I buy a new vehicle probably the last thing I worry about is the engine.
It's a new vehicle under warranty ! Why would anyone want to deviate from the 0W-20 shown on the engine and give the manufacturer any little reason to deny a claim ?
Too many variables here for a bad bearing leading to engine failure.
thinking over coffee. Its kicking in now.

Is it a
1) bad design....2)made bad.....3)assembled bad....... 4)lubrication bad.......... thats Four - there can be 24 combinations.

You can't control the first three.

**********
So Lubrication
Four things make Oil go Bad.
Friction, heat, contaminaton, oxidation - again four - Yada Yada

Every time you start your engine you introduce water and fuel into the Oil.
Its starts going bad (contamination), even when sitting (oxidation)

So Auto Stop Start which saves fuel - in the end ........ you tell me if this is a good thing.

Its all Ethanol Fuel now even 91-93 octane.
Ethanol fuel is hydroscopic - attracts water.
So this now introduces more phase separation between the Oil and Water in the Sump.
If you run 2 cycles engines. Regular 2 cycle Oil does not stick to Ethanol. Great.

Damn - $2.00 a Liter in Ontario -Almost $8 us gallon.

 

I didn't think about 3K, but I may do the same then.

I'm curious--in foreign markets where other viscosities are allowed per the manuals, do those vehicles lack anything on them for CARB? Or are they exactly the same as USA spec?

Another thing to note is the fairly higher-revving, but NA 5.0 V8 in my RC-F requires 5w-30 oil. That engine has titanium/forged upgrades, so I would think the Tundra engines are under more stress than that one with inferior parts.

 

I was very interested to see the comment about the foregin markets VS US spec. Waiting to find out too.

My concern with 0w20 would be the passages through the turbos and the heavier oil burning as it goes through- but if internationally the same engine runs 5w-30 it cant be that.

Also, my 1400mi change looked like it was some seriously dark oil.

 

Not up on the EVAP system, but does this have anything to do with oil lubercated parts/ engine componets that need oil? So essentially would heavier oil cause issues with this system?

 

Ok that is what I had thought it was.

So 0w-20 is just a feel-good situation for the company/ CAFE standards. Would running 5w-30 citing international manuals make warrnty stuff tricky? No chance you have a link to some of the international manuals...

Thanks!

 

Very interesting.
So the dealer confirmed this to me. About 2.0 liters Oil remains on Cdn Tundras after Oil and Filter change.
Just as a comparison 1 liter remains on the previous 5.7 liter. Oil and Filter Change.
Guess that makes the 3.4 a worse design from the Oil/Filter Change perspective. Numbers dont lie.
Taking whatever parts of the engine off to get to the remaining Oil would be cost prohibitive.

I just did an Oil and Filter/s change on a '96 993 (911) Air and Oil cooled.
10 liters I got most of it but it has 2 Oil filters - one that leads to the Oil Cooling tank and one for the engine.
Taking the engine oil filter off requires removing an Oil line and a heat exchanger.
Oh and taking the Storage Tank Side oil filter requires removal of the side skirt or you have a serious mess. A real pain if its your first time doing it.

 

I referenced Canada because I spoke in liters.

 

Do we have a clue of where these qts (or liters CDN) hide in the engine?

I had a pretty good outflow (not the 2 qts) when i jacked up the driver's side so i could fit my fatass under the air dam- but i assume that was all the goodies out of the oil pan...

 

I did the same thing.

Is it paranoid? Maybe, but I just think oil paranoia is relatively cheap…

 

I couldn't care less if this is covered under warranty. The job looks intense! If this happens to me, the truck will be gone, and it will never be the same. Ryan, how many bearing issues has your dealer seen?

 

Here is the Landcruiser VJA300 2021- manual from UK with the same V35A-FTS engine.

 

That pretty much says you have to use 10W30 anywhere in lower US.

 

What canister pump?

 

EVAP canister is attached to the fuel tank vents. NA market vehicle come with diagnostic pump, which EU don't have. At least how it worked in past. But anyways, how oil viscosity is related to EVAP system?

 

Ryan, are you using 5w-20 or 0w-20? You don't need to admit if you are secretly using straight 40w (can you even get that anymore?)
Thanks,

 

You always need to add a remark about your short OCI and higher grade gas.

 

I’ve thought about adding a Ceratec product. It’s supposed to stay coated on internal parts. I don’t think it’s snake oil. It could be the special oil bearing prophylactic.

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/cera-tec-p000017.html#20002

 

Thank you!! This is exactly what I was talking about. Again, I am unsure how the EVAP system plays with motor oil but good to know at the very least our engines can handle diffrent viscosities.

 

Do you know if overseas is having these blow-ups since they can run 30 weights? (5W-30 being a reccommended weight next to 0w-20)

 

Ahh ok interesting. Obviously I am very much in the 20 weight camp is too thin of an oil. And getting good overseas data would be difficult.

And I am not about to risk my warranty running 5w-30 in the US- dont have coin to throw around like that haha

 

You afraid to use 5w30 which is, being water and gas diluted, is nearly indistinguishable in lab tests from 0w20, but would want to dump to your oil something made with ceramic?

The best additive for turbo engines is called a mid- or premium-grade gasoline

 

I run mostly 93 Octane fuel in the Tundra. No Additive to oil. That said, when you add Cera-tec, you visually see a color difference as its a Mocha Color.

Run Cera-tec in my Mustang. 10.5 quarts of 5-50 synthetic with 600ML Cera-Tec. No issues. The 5.0 Engine is a noisy beast and have what is called a Typewriter Tic at 1700RPM. Cera-Tec eliminates the Tic and substantially reduces other valve-train noises. Engine runs cooler. It's fully boasted and fortunate doesn't use any oil.

 

I appreciate hearing that. I used it in my ‘13 Sequoia and I would use that vehicle pretty hard. Heavy towing/full payload up and down mountain passes and everything else. I don’t know how much the cera tec helped me, but I felt less guilty when I traded it in.

EDIT:
Never mind, I don’t feel less guilty now.

 

https://youtu.be/CAGT5inQScE?si=puRFZ0qoZh9bT5XP

 

Well if 5w-30 becomes 0w-20 after time, then what is 0w-20 like after water and gas dilution?

I get your point on the fuel, however, 87 runs just fine/called out and the issues are from bearing wear/ lubercation failure.