General Supercharger Thread

in the fuse box by the e-brake pedal

That's it. Just make sure you get one that matches the toyota style mini-fuses.

 

You have an Iphone? I can find obd mx in play store

 

With your luck, it's already on your porch!

 

lol! I don’t think summit’s shipping is that fast. On sale with free shipping. Should be here Thursday or Friday

 

Had iPhone. Now have Android. I have the MX+ which works with both OS.

 

iPhone app

Android app

 

I just installed a AEM wideband today. I ran a single wire to the fuse box and tapped in to the USB fuse. It's switched, which is what I needed so the gauge won't stay on. I found a harness plug on the driver's side but the wires look so skinny, so decided to do what I did. I was also thinking of doing the vent pod but for now have it sitting by the USB plugs.

 

That’s a good idea. I was having a hard time finding a fuse under the dash that was actually key on, like youd think radio or others would be key on but apparently are powered all the time. Eventually found ECU-ACC which I assume is powering the small ecu running the accessories which seems fairly harmless to add a fuse to. The PSB-1 does power off for a second when turning the truck on which I am not sure is normal for accessory power.




And thanks to helidave for the “add a fuse” idea, Oreillys had the mini fuse ones in stock and it’s very straightforward to setup, plus no wonky wiring.

 

I grabbed power for my psb-1 from tapping the 12v outlet wires in the lower center dash.

 

Where did you get the pod from?

 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1588004202/toyota-tacoma-n300-3rd-gen-tundra-vent

That guy, was easy to pop the vent off and get it in there. It could be a little better at staying put, if you push on it really hard will pop back.

 

For now this is where I have it.

 

Forgive me. I'm learning everything I can about SCers.

Is the AF ratio gauge more important during hard pulls or just for everyday driving?

Having it mounted low and not near the line of sight seems like a not good place for the gauge.

Like I said, I'm learning and trying to keep track of the very useful posts in this thread.

 

Hard pulls only, WOT. Otherwise it's always at 14.7+/- so no need to look at it. And once your tune is spot on, you really don't need it or look at it per say. But always nice to have.
Also, a quick look down or to the side or where ever you have it mounted is really all you need. When doing WOT runs your more concentrated on the road. In that moment when someone pulls up next to you and you both decide to punch it, the gauge is the last thing on your mind.

 

Discovered the little spare firewall hole on the drivers side today. It’s directly below the main wiring harness and the “nipple” is on the engine bay side. I carefully used a long drill but to make a large enough hole to pull the two psb-1 wiring harnesses through, having electrical taped them to a 14 gauge wire to make it easier. Thanks everyone for your help, definitely a fun project!

 

If you have this size pulley what’s the next size down?
Next two actually
-1?
-2?

 

76 & 70 from @snivilous

And you'll need a shorter belt: Dayco 5081145

$24 Dayco 5081145 Poly Rib Serpentine Belt

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFU3PHY

 

First few rounds of logging and tuning. Almost there on the afr, work on the shifting etc later this week.

Previous setup saw 8-8.3 psi boost now back to 9-9.6 psi with the new ls103mm and 5” tube

 

That's a hungry b!tch!

 

It's an awesome feeling when the power just kicks in and goes. With the shifting it still does it but not as on/off.
Cool deal!

 

Decided to see if any change in performance from over axle to before axle dump.
I think there was a little reverberation off my spare tire. I probably should get it out as it doesn't fit with 35's. Extra weight...Haha

 

My shifting really isn’t too far off I barely let off the gas to shift currently. I think due to the harness and nw tb quality. Parking etc slow speed works fine

 

Definitely should of listened from the start at the suggestion to go with the NW 103mm TB. Would've eliminated some headaches.
Glad yours is going well.

 

No options out there yet other than snivilous. Next size down he has is 76mm and youll def want a tune done. I tried to get 80mm made but no intrest from anyone. Most people here seem to be HP chasers

 

Yeah I’d love to see an 80. I think I’d be happy with that and leave it alone

 

https://www.snivspeedshop.com/product/tundra-magnuson-2650-pulleys

Boost curves shown there too.

I'll let you know if I do a run of 80mm, but as Nate said there's been minimal interest. And buying even more pulleys and stocking more options is hard to justify when I already have plenty of hardware laying around.

 

Im running snivs 76mm and fuel rail boost referenced and everything else is stock kit. I had a tune done by OTT and even up at 6/k ft my truck wants to break'em loose with ease.
If youre closer to sea level like others will say, id suggest 650 injectors so youre not maxing them out and not running rich enough

 

How does it sound??? I was thinking of taking my tailpipes off and doing the dump version like yours.

 

When I spoke with Keith he said I would lose some low end torque but I can't tell. It is actually tame at cruising but I passed a car yesterday and it was mean sounding.
I did weld in 26inch hemholtz resonators after the x-pipe to help with dron at 1900-2000rpm. It's an easy test to swap out as I have the 2nd set to exit above axle by the spare.

 

Ordered the new Dragy, there is free shipping & 50 off, I can get a rebate if anyone uses this link.

https://dragymotorsports.com/?rfsn=7967344.c25b93