What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Before “deer incident #2” I had a TRD decal on my grill.

 

Those are cool but one small chunk of debris hits it and your eyes will be forever glued to the disruption in all those parallel lines
Edit: does this confirm your earlier ocd claim? Shit...

 

Would have to be a decent piece of debris. It's metal

 

And now that @BroHon has pointed out the DC hood not aligning with the headlights and corners lights, the way an AC does, I'll never look at a DC the same again...

 

It truly is the inferior cab.

 

Access cab best cab.

 

Epoxy mixed with glass micro balloons to the desired consistency. Hands down the best sanding easiest to use filler for composites/plastic.

http://www.uscomposites.com/fillers.html
3M glass bubbles is the product I use. Anything on this page would likely work well.

in action
https://youtu.be/pDd_HzVvsqs?si=W9OoDJ_w7d01Q7UI&t=322

 

Quiet as a mouse on backout today. Granted, will see if the same is true on next pullout. It was wet today, so I'm sure the added moisture/humidity will cause at least some surface oxidation on the rotors, so we may hear a momentary squeak.

To this point ^^

The filler needs to be able to plug a 1/4" hole 3/4" deep, and harden to the middle. I'm thinking epoxy stick, 2 part mix, in a burrito. Probably something exothermic to ensure hardening in the middle. I may run by Ace in a bit and see what's on the shelf.

I suppose another option would be to rubber plug 1/3 of the way into the hole from behind to center-plug it, wait for the middle to fully cure, then top-plug either side...

Or better yet, metal tape the front, drop in about 1/6"-1/4" of epoxy, wait for cure, then repeat from the backside in 2-3 treatments.

Whoever did this shit is an asshole. Too much extra work, but it'll look good when it's done.

​

 

Dime size rock + 80mph

 

I'll let you know if it ever happens to mine.
You'll be the first to know.
I got you on speed dial.

 

ACBC

 

A hack mangler that needs to be punched in the face, and denied breeding rights. And made to sober up.

 

https://youtu.be/V01OuuGlbbo?si=BCiqYN15rJFlsgN8
chrisfix with the answer in the first minute.

basically they're one way vents to keep pressure from building up and shattering any tempered glass. Air can't come in therefore hvac is sealed and you're protected from the elements. But air can escape incase of excess pressure and keep the windows from shattering.

 

Crap. Just saw this. Not sure how I missed it when replying.

 

I just can't unsee the face

 

Something off the shelf like a kneaded sausage product will work fine for as small as the holes are.I would even be tempted to use regular ole JB with a packing tape dam on the backside. Sanding is going to suck, but its only a 1/4" spot.

 

Bare Grilles, don't make it drink its own pee.

Got all the FMS foams pulled and adhesive removed, scrubbed all corners, prepped for filler, waiting for it to dry overnight to start filling holes, so I can sand and skim it with Rage for final sanding and prime. Inner mesh pulled, cleaned thoroughly (it was nasty af!) and tucked away.

Gotta order 7mm and 5mm replacement foams for the outer and inner rims, respectively.

 

I'll fight all of you

 

AC is the OG

 

I have a mesh insert sitting in the box. I need to find another stock grille to cannibalize since mine is broken.

 

I have a DC grille in the shop. Got it from @wandering_boy. I'd give it to you, only issue is, it's white, chrome capped, and it cost an arm and a leg to get from CA to GA, so I'm sure it'd cost a fortune to get back. Then you'd need to paint. And one of the chrome rails lost a tab in transit.

 

That was my thought train also. I've got regular JB, and I have a stick of JB Plastic Epoxy. I was thinking the latter may be the better option, but I'd prefer to flow something in from behind with metal flashing tape on the face.

I'm going to let it dry out overnight. I may toss it in the oven at 150 for an hour or two to expedite. Drinking some coffee and mulling it over. Slept like shit last night.

 

Agonizing and day dreaming. Thinking about the next stages of speed. Ordered the Orange Virus VF Tuner and their 'canned' 2UZFE VVTI tunes. Still waiting on that arrival. (Side note: when that arrives I will show their 93 octane tune dyno results).

Got the VF tuner so I can adjust my fuel/spark maps as I add mods. But this brings me to my present dilemma...

Kelford 251/251 drop-in cams: $1,500

Or

4.30:1 ring and pinion re-gear: $1,000

I haven't decided which way to go next. I really want to see how a stock springed single pattern cam will do on this engine. It's 30*i/24*e longer duration with 0.5mm higher lift than the stock cam. About as agressive as you want to go with stock springs and without having to limit/disable the VVTI.

Buuuut I know how much quicker the truck will feel with 4.30:1 gear. Before the comments roll in, I'm running 285/60-R18 tires and don't want to be RPM crazy on the highway. Math says 4:30:1 will do better for my application than 4.56:1.

 

What rpm does that kelford move peak torque to?

 

Kelford advertises the 251/251 at increasing low to mid range power. No RPM value given.

Next step up are the 264/258 which are advertised as mid range but need their springs.

I've focused everything so far on increasing low-end torque. We mostly drive these trucks below 3,000RPM. I've picked up quite a bit of low end oomph with the Tri-Ys. Dyno showed about 40 lbs-ft off the rip with just DD 12 hole injectors, headers, and single 2.5" straight through exhaust.

 

Some trucks just have longer beds than others. Nothing to be ashamed of DCs

 

A bird in the cab is worth 2 in the bed

 

boooooo

 

Dont feel bad, some people just need a truck to be a truck, at least the DC isnt over compensating like the newer ones.