Going Long Travel Front and Rear

I am currently rubbing my wheel wells on both sides under heavy compression. Wondering if I should run 1.5” spacers up front. The Camburg kit is already 2.5” so about 4” each side. Not sure if this will help or create more rubbing problems when turning.

 

The true way is to cut it all out and move eveything up. Or add a space to bump stop so it prevents this.

 

I wonder if a 1/2" body lift would give you what you need.

 

Nope needs more than that unfortunately

 

Where's the MC Hammer meme? (Hammer time) or your cutting/welding/painting then I guess.

 

I wouldn’t run spacers on front, no reason just feels wrong. The TC LT kit included spacers for the bump stops, but no mention in the directions/parts list so haven’t seen many install them. Believe they are for clearing 35’s, helped with the 37’s, but not enough. Bump drop height is limited if using a secondary bypass, won’t use enough of the bypass bump zone. Shitty pic, but the red arrow is the spacer, don’t remember how thick it is.

 

Been a little absent from making progress lately. I had to do some severe trimming and still need to do more where the forward most fender mount is located. Might have to delete the mount entirely and fab up a bracket. Added some spacers to the bump stops but the wheel still kisses the engine bay sheet metal. Full bump pics are pre-trimming. Also made some simple 1/8” ABS plastic fender liners to try and keep some of the splash up out. Mounted the with some 6mm thread nutserts.

 

I didn't see anyone comment on this, but I would buy a 1" shorter strap than you're running and swap that in. Usually people run at least 1" shorter since the straps stretch. I usually run 1" shorter and that's with doubled up quad wrapped limit straps. At 1/8" I doubt the strap is doing much of anything.

 

Are you saying set the strap to 1” of shock shaft sag from full travel? I’m running double quad wrap straps with adjustable mounts. They seem to be holding tight (not too many miles on them yet) because I have to remove to straps to get extra droop in order to remove the lower shock bolt. (Not sure if the explanation makes sense?)

 

With low travel ifs it can be kind of weird, since not much strap motion is a lot of wheel motion. If you're doubled up I would probably set it so the strap is limiting it 0.5" where the strap mounts. You can push that if you feel comfortable with it, but think about the suspension at full compression and then going to full droop as fast as the shocks let it, that's a considerable impulse to stretch the straps and a common cyclic event. On my 4Runner I would try to push the straps to get as much travel as possible, but I would also mount them as far out on the arm as I could so the shock stayed safe and I was minimizing the "apparent" loss of wheel travel as much as possible. On my buggy I mount the straps to the axle, where 1-2" isnt much there compared to the shocks way further up on the trailing arm. Bump stops are the same thing, I assume the delrin striker gets squished into oblivion so that's usually 0.5" of motion assumed after the bump stop has bottomed out when you're cycling it.

Pulling the straps to droop it and pull shocks is common, I don't know anyone where they don't have to do that. If the shock is setup correctly then the spring is preloaded even at full extension, so makes sense that further limiting from that spot would result in more preload on the shock and the shock still trying to extend, making it nearly impossible to pull while strapped.

All food for thought. I know your dilemma, especially on a Toyota where you don't have a lot of droop to play with even with LT up front. But all of this applies to the rear as well, arguably more so since there's more unsprung weight yanking on the straps.

 

That’s some really helpful info. When I set the straps I was going off intuition I guess. But now I’m imaging the rebound force from near full bump all the way to full droop when hitting even a small jump. I will probably adjust to 0.5” soon and go from there. I’m trying to imagine a way to measure limit strap stretch under those conditions but can’t think of anything. Better to go to the side of caution. I’m already bump and strapped at 15” but I would rather have quality travel vs pure travel numbers. Plenty more hammering/ grinding needed to get the bump numbers up.

 

Made a 1/8” rubber shield for the rearward section of engine bay. Need to make one for the driver side and possibly expand into more of the wheel well. Want to get some spray paint and even out the whole wheel well section black.

 

Just as a heads up that intake prefilter will stil get the airbox filter water logged during rain. Ask me how I know lol I’ve got some abs I’ve been meaning to add to the door jams at some point

 

Fixing the intake issue is another project on my list. What are your thought on getting a cone filter style intake with the sheet metal heat shield. I know it’s not ideal for a “cold air intake” but I would rather loose a tiny bit of power to make sure I’m not taking on water. I don’t do a ton of water crossings or anything like that. My main issue would be driving in rain.

 

Yep essentially what I did with the Prospeed box. But @snivilous and I have an idea in the works for a full custom box that will fix this issue and be high clearance.

 

Unfortunately cycling the suspension static doesn’t account for how much the frame flexes in at dynamic full bump. Wouldn’t be much left in my fenders without controlling the frame flex.

This is the best solution so far for me. Has an accordion bellow at the fender/air box connection that really helps, uses an enclosed housing with big cone style filter, and the Pro Guard 7 filter is also available separately. Did modify a bit though, added a mount to the airbox and adapted the oem outlet for mini-snorkel. Second pic is “mini-snorkel” - 90* elbow pulling from behind headlight. Have to put a piece of pipe in the end or it sucks shut. No issues with rain, been through a few water crossings with no issue but I avoid water/mud if possible.

https://afepower.com/afe-power-53-10020r-quantum-pro-5r-cold-air-intake-system

https://afepower.com/afe-power-72-91129-magnum-flow-pro-guard-7-air-filter

Some shitty pics.

 

Don’t laugh at me but it’s proving hard to find an intake kit I want because nothing ships to California and we all know why. CARB should be dismantled. That 90 degree elbow Vizsla could work for me too, I could integrate that into the ABS shield I made right behind my headlight and extend the underneath protection with some additional ABS.

 

You’ll also need to cut that mount there it’ll rub.

 

My mount looks a little different since mine is a 2012 and your is a 2014+. Realistically I need to remove the whole bracket and fab something to hold the fender in place where that factory location is. Shouldn’t be too hard but will need to bend and weld some tubing. The photo is pre trimming, as I had cut a half moon notch in that bracket. At this point I am also counting on the fact I won’t be hitting full bump at more than slight turn angle otherwise I would just need to cut the whole front end off.

 

What wheel backspacing do you have with your Methods? Camburg recommends 4.75" for their LT kit.

 

Can't post them here either......

 

Removed! It was a good try at least

 

They are 4.75”

 

You only need 24 more meaningful posts. Easy peasy. Enjoy being a member here. I know you will.

 

With the amount of help I’ve gotten from these guys, it would be hard to not enjoy it here

 

Did you have to cut the rear bump stop too? Or do anything with that as well?

 

I only chopped off the front one only because it was hitting the shock coil. The rear mount I have a DuroBump with some spacers.

 

When I placed a bulk order last July with Camburg, I had them piece together all the parts when I was talking with the rep over the phone. I only am now realizing that I received the “Spring Over” bump stop mount instead of the “spring under”. From what I can tell, it looks like the spring over sits lower and obviously extends outward more. I am going to run a Dirt King lower shock mount with integrated bump pad. Looking back in the thread it looks like Reywcms is running something similar but I can’t tell for sure. Should I just contact Camburg and have them swap the mounts? Additionally I am running 2.5” travel fox bumps.

 

Yep I’m running the DK lower shock mount and bump stop kit. See if camburg will swap it out.

 

Looking at the DK kit, they also seem to sit higher in the frame similar to the Camburg Spring Under kit minus the stick out.