I pulled my axle in half while removing the knuckle.. now what?

How does the backside of your UCAs look now that you've cleaned them off? My UCAs were delaminating back there, so I replaced mine.

 

hmm, maybe this would qualify as delamination.. I just haven't heard of them seeing a ton of force or being particularly prone to failure.

Thats really generous, I went to cancel my rockauto order and it just shipped I'll keep stewing while I finish the rest of the work and figure out a game plan lol

 

You can go ahead and pass them on to them if you'd like. I'm not hellbent on them.

 

Man, even mine don’t look that bad. I’d be hitting it with a hammer to see how much good metal is actually left and replace accordingly.

 

The UCAs can be easily replaced. When I look at this I see brake line failure...don't ask me how I know!

 

My truck has lots of shiny new brake lines now...

 

haha fair enough, I'll just do 'em. If I spend much more time asking people if I actually have to I may as well have just done the job.

Looks great, yea that particular junction has been giving me the creeps since I bought it. Did you get those pre-bent from Toyota?

 

I also noticed the brake lines, they do look like they will fail soon. I recently had a few hard lines fail, so I replaced those and a few other ones that looked suspect (6 total) and the 3 soft lines while I was at it. I bought my hard lines pre-bent from Toyota.

Several dealers wanted $300 freight shipping to send the lines. I checked with my local dealership that had similar prices and they ordered the lines for me and had another dealer send it to them. Saved me the freight fee. Might look into that.

The line that was so expensive to ship is the one that goes from the ABS module in the passenger side of the engine bay to a junction under the driver seat.

 

Yes. There's one really long line that had outrageous shipping, so I had my local dealer order in and I picked it up. Everything else is still available from multiple sources.



Also scary in your pictures are the fuel lines. Having a total brake failure is manageable compared to having fuel spray out at 90 PSI onto the hot exhaust. These parts may or may not be available depending on the specifics of your truck. I was able to obtain new factory lines (although I've been waiting for warmer weather to install them) whereas @Jack McCarthy et al have had to have the hard lines fabricated.

 

The shop I dealed with lied to me, and just cleaned up the old line and replaced the one they could order since they didn’t have fittings to build a new one.

 

A car mechanic lied to you?! What's this world coming to. I wouldn't be surprised if politicians start lying to us too!

 

Had I owned a 2nd vehicle, I would’ve listened to @shifty` and just let the squirting gas from the rusted line under the hood catch fire and be done with it.

 

Yikes, kinda bittersweet getting such thorough feedback but probably for the best, I’ll look into that stuff. I don’t have ABS but I’m sure there’s still an equivalent long expensive line.

I think I’ll take you up on those UCAs @shifty` what truck are they off of? I’ll double check the PN’s. I’m assuming OEM’s with some mileage are still better than the Moogs I just got

 

2006, which is something I needed to look up. We should probably verify whether the '06 uppers will fit in your '00.

 

https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao...qYar_Cxx5xFhGPbdS3JqPpZt6HMVk4hhoCgP0QAvD_BwE

Looks promising

 

My part numbers (per EPC-DATA site) are: 48630-34010 and 48610-34010

See if those are compatible with your VIN at whichever site you want - you may want to stick with https://autoparts.toyota.com for the verification.

 

yup

 

Cool, ping me in a PM. If @Dakillacore is saying he's cool with me getting them to you, and if you're really going to install them or have them installed, PM me and let's work out shipping etc.

 

Wanted to post a quick update on what this thread was started about to share/solicit some possibly useful info. So ultimately I was overreacting a bit about the original stuck axle problem, though all the advice was still helpful.

I was able to get it out and reassemble the CV, and it seemed to just be a matter of finding a new boot, which turns out to be impossible for that specific Cardone one, since it's a large diameter and has very specific tripod grooves in it.

After wasting a bunch of time trying to figure that out, I decided it was time to just get a new axle. Found some great threads on here about the Toyota reman's, however they're not currently available anywhere in the US. I spoke to a parts counter guy about it, and he said since they're not listed as discontinued yet they could be back eventually, but who knows.

Opted to get another cheap garbage (Trakmotive) one from RockAuto to at least hold out for a reman, and it came with the dust shields a bit dinged up, and another difference I was more concerned about: The C-Clip was a square profile, instead of round, and seemed to extrude way farther than out than should. Being a little paranoid about that kind of thing chipping/getting stuck in the dif, it's getting sent back.



Next I tried this one from advance for the warranty, and since the photo looked pretty close to OEM with the inboard dust shield, and grooves for hammering in and out.

When I picked it up though, it was a completely different axle, with no grooves on the inboard side. While I'd prefer to have those, I figured it wasn't such a big deal to go without, then I realized it was literally just a $50 GSP from RockAuto, part #, logos and all.



I know part stores don't make their own axles, but paying 3X for the warranty seems like a sham. I realize this is all getting into pretty extreme overthinking territory, but what I'm leaning towards now is just grabbing a used OEM. I'm seeing a few nearby listed on Car-Part.com for like $75, and I figure if they're under 60-70K miles, OEM, and feel tight, it's no more risk of premature failure than these $50 rockauto specials, and then at least I'll have a real core with serviceable boots.


Otherwise the rest of the project is coming along, though between the school/work/travel stuff I may be getting close to the world record for slowest front-end rebuild. One sides all buttoned up with a new OEM UBJ, new OEM LBJ, Bilstein 4600's, sway bar bushings, sway bar links, outer TRE's, and UCA's courtesy of @shifty` . The other sides just waiting on this axle before the knuckle goes in.



Also just won the infamous battle with the dif drain plug. Heat cycling, PB blaster, and cold chiseling wasn't gettin it done, so I ordered some of these guys and finally cracked it loose.

 

It's possible you could have straighted the dust shields and swapped in an OEM clip for like $2 if it fit the groove. I got one of the last sets of remans and it came with a bent dust shield so swapped the dust shield with OE part since mine is a DD and didn't have time to wait for one of the other last axles available at that time to ship in (that might also have a bent shield cause it seems commonly reported), and had decided didn't want to settle for anything but stock by getting something from local parts stores. @shifty~ has subsequently done this too with a detailed writeup. But others have straightened slight dents in a pinch. However, if yours couldn't be easily straightened, don't know if an OEM shield would fit the Trackmotive so probably best overall to send it back especially if you can end up with an OEM axle.

IMHO it's great to analyze things like what local parts stores are selling and if it's worth getting elsewhere for less or something else instead especially since you have the time and aren't needing an axle immediatly for a DD. That's how we learn ... and help others by sharing like you are. For instance, if Advics brake pads/rotors, Aisin timing belts, Koyo/Nachi bearings, and Denso radiators, coils, alternators, and AC compressors are good replacements and where we get them.

I actually think your choice of picking up a used axle is smart if the boots are in good shape so the joints are protected. It was my next choice too if I didn’t get the remans. There are reboot options including factory or for higher angle and longer travel.

Great work on your truck.

 

Happy to see my old UCA nice and shiny and going to good use!

Meanwhile, you know that front diff drain plug, I think all of them, they have a TORX slot deep down past the Allen, just in case you strip the Allen head? I don’t think enough people are aware of that.

 

Thanks! I agree I'm definitely in a lucky position to not have to daily drive it right now and be able to weigh my options. That's a good idea with just swapping the snap ring. I had considered it, but was a bit worried about if the notch dimensions would be similar enough for it to work as intended. If I don't find a decent used one I think that will still be the plan. I'm going to check some out in person and make a judgment call. Like you say if the boots are clean and it's low-ish mileage that should be reasonable enough.

that's a good tip, I had read that on here and figured it was just too rusty for me to clear it out, but now I'm wondering if it's only the fill plugs that have it. This is my old fill plug that clearly has a small torx shape at the bottom, even though it's a bit hard to make out with the rust, compared to the new drain plug I just picked up from the dealer (90341-24014). Could just be a bad cut on the new one, but I don't know that I'd call it a torx slot at a glance.

 

Just saw the sticker.

 

Buy the Lexus diff plugs.

 

What @bfunke said...

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1474#post-2973482

Lexus fill plug: 90341-18060
Lexus drain plug: 90341-24016

 

I bought a junkyard CV axle 2 years ago and it's still going. I'll get it rebuilt when it eventually fails, but for $75 it was a great purchase.

 

Dang those look like a much better design than the originals lol, thanks for the PN's.

Glad to hear it. Still on the hunt for one with good boots n sheilds but I'm gonna try a couple more scrap yards.

 

You can get shields from Toyota if needed but they aren't cheap.

 

I can't believe I missed what you taped to the UCA when I first looked at this! Liuterally laughed out loud at that.