Sniv Speed Shop - Custom Parts and Design

To avoid hijacking other threads, and since this is a SSS project, I'll post updates to my current project in here: designing an oversized throttle body that uses the Tundra bolt pattern and Tundra electronics.

There are a number of people, and thus some degree of demand (plus it's cool), to upgrade the throttle body size for the Tundra. The stock throttle body is 76mm iirc, the Lexus RCF which is plug and play is 84mm, and anything else takes someone else's throttle body (usually a GM based one) and needs an adapter plate and signal translator to make it work. I concluded it'd be somewhat straight forward to dissect a stock throttle body, move all the components into a different housing, and voila--factory components in a bigger throttle body. Simplify tuning, simplify mechanics, 100% plug and play. There's more details listed in this thread, where I was originally posting information: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ini...throttle-body-on-a-supercharged-tundra.75732/

Luckily the forum provides, and @armyoffoo sent me his stock TB since he was already running a different one on his truck. And @reywcms father also sent me his stock throttle body too. The requirements are pretty straight forward:

-Use Tundra parts as much as possible, so it could be sold as a DIY upgrade kit
-Use the Tundra bolt pattern to reduce interfaces that need to be sealed
-Use the Tundra TPS sensor so it's both electrically and mechanically a straight swap

Starting out with the first stock TB I got, I took it apart:





And I'll leave out a lot of the details I found since I don't want to repeat myself, go to that thread above if you care, but the gear with the big ass spring has two integrated magnets on it that talk to hall effect sensors on the black "sensor body". They might not be hall effects, I'm not an electrical engineer, but the point is that the throttle shaft drive gear has to be reused if I want to reuse the sensor body. Additionally, the throttle shaft is physically integrated and molded into the plastic gear.

Here you can see where I broke the shaft out of the gear trying to figure out if it could be disassembled non-destructively--and it can't!



Fast forward a few weeks, and I was able to design a housing that uses all the stock components. The stock throttle shaft is shortened, and then coupled to a shaft extension which is large enough to bridge the increased throttle body size. That's all to say, this is the state of the design:









This is a 94mm throttle body, that theoretically is 100% plug and play on the Tundra. That is roughly a ~0.7" larger diameter, and about 50% increase in area. I have a friend with a good 3D printer so had him print it out and got the mockup housing in today!







And the single biggest thing to test was making sure the sensor body aligned with the lip that is extremely weird shaped, and it fit like an absolute glove including indexing with the motor tangs!



What's next?

There's still a number of design tweaks to be done, for instance the idler gear shaft hasn't been added in. Additionally the interface of the trimmed stub shaft coming off the drive gear and the primary shaft is questionable. I need to do some analysis on it, or change the methodology of attaching the two shafts (such as welding them, but that then removes a lot of the DIY capability)--that interface is probably the single biggest spot it will change. The aesthetics need to be improved too, I'll hog it out as much as possible to slim it down and make it sexy. This is an absolute chonker though, due to using the stock sensor, drive gear, and shaft it pushes the sensor body about ~0.75" further out as I recall. Proportional to the actual air inlet size, the body is right in line, but on other throttle bodies you wouldn't have this component stack up so the electronics wouldn't end up scaling with the throttle body air inlet like my just so happened to do. Though there are advantages so it growing wider, if you look at the cross section view, using the stock gears and motor ends up with the motor getting really close to the air inlet. In the quest for simplicity and component reusability everything appears to work out very well, but that's not to say it's a thin unit is my point.

With the volume model here I can test it on my truck and see if it's acceptable, though I'm not particularly worried. The sensor body is the only part that protrudes an excess amount, and lots of people are running this size throttle body without issue.

As to why this size? Well it's the maximum size that will fit with the Tundra bolt pattern, simple as that. I opened the air inlet until there was a .030" clearance between it and the bolt head. Without going to an adapter plate it can't get bigger. And that limiting factor also applies to a supercharger snout with the Tundra bolt pattern, even if you ported a Magnuson or Harrop intake you aren't getting much bigger due to where the tapped holes are. And that's also a huge porting job, the Harrop is a sub-90mm snout and the Magnuson is 90mm, so this TB won't be the limiting size unless a lot of work is put in. And since this is meant for "the masses" to just slap a bigger throttle body on their setup and know it'll enable the maximum potential of their stock supercharger snout, I decided it wasn't worth trying to push the envelope even further when there's already options to run extremely huge TBs.

 

Holy sh!t!! This is a full-on production! I'm impressed and everyone wins with this! Wow!

 

That looks amazing! Really taking shape, even if it is purple, it's impressive!

 

Do you think a sleeve with epoxy would work for joining the shafts? Non-reversible, but should hold.

 

Cute little 94mm lol jk This is an awesome option!

 

As usual... it came out Awesome!

 

Badass! Sign me up!

I’m assuming you aren’t running 200 degree coolant through it?

 

I think epoxy as a liquid shim to take up slop between the male/female sides of the shaft would work. I wouldn't rely on it to transmit torque long term. Funny enough I just got off a call about bond line thickness and how to analyze it. I prefer a mechanical connection if at all possible, though using it for redundancy and shimming doesn't hurt.

I do plan to have a coolant loop through it if people want to use it. The stock throttle body has less than 2" of length where the coolant runs through interestingly, I thought it went all over but it's really just the corner of the TB that's heated. I'll probably do something similar with tapped holes so that port can be used or plugged.


I also plan to have additional ports behind/in front of the throttle blade so methanol or nitrous can be plumbed directly into the TB. I want to retain all the stock features/capabilities, and add more. Then anyone can bolt this on and it'll be as factory as possible, while also enabling extra features without modification.

 

Cool! Nice work Sniv! Perhaps some sort of coupling with set screws and flats/indents for the set screws in the shafts to join the two together? No idea how much room you’re working with there, and if that’s even feasible. Just throwing out ideas.

 

My plan actually was to try and incorporate something like that, but I haven't actually spent any time looking at the feasibility. Right now I have the stock shaft (green) that gets cut back and then the groove that the stock throttle plate slides into is used as the female coupler, and then the new shaft has a male flat to slide into it, with a sleeve to keep them from sliding off plus each side supported with bearings. My thought had been to use set screws in the red sleeve to eliminate the backlash since the fitment of the slots wouldn't be a press fit. Though the bigger concern is if the male slot is strong enough to handle the torque requirements, and the reason my focus is on the male side is if there's further modification to the female (stock) shaft besides just cutting it with a $10 angle grinder, now we're again straying further from "easy DIY". I guess the red sleeve could have a hole in it to use a drill guide to insert a cross pin in the green side and then just put a cross pin in the new side.... Need to think about it, haven't put much brain juice towards this besides it being somewhat functional

 

So. Damn. Cool.

 

Got a new batch of pulleys in! These ones took absolutely forever to arrive which was annoying. But I packed up five already to get shipped off tomorrow! I only got the 2.3 and 2.0 for the 1900 and then half a dozen of the 76mm for the 2650s since I had two (now one) 70mm laying around still. And I had run out of hubs for the 1900 so got more of those.



I also got @reywcms 103mm throttle body adapter in from a different machine shop, and it is absolutely gorgeous and a great fit! Got the O-rings in and will have it sent off tomorrow too.

 

Great design! Thanks for re-stocking will have to pick up the 2.1 just to have a set. You know for traveling at elevation...haha
But seriously Thanks for your support!

 

I think the 2.1 is a worthless size, just run the 2.0 like you ordered

Hell you could try to run the 2.0 already just to demonstrate how far the stock guts can go with a good tune and conservative driving

 

I'd be flirting with danger! I'm conservative but not my driving!!

 

I need to confess. My last post was a lie. I'll play and turn up w/m to 50%, PE and lower rpm limit. Will run it a few runs...

 

Hahahaha yes let that baby rip!!! @carn_dogg is trying to unconvince himself to get the 70mm which would be the equivalent on the 2650 to the 2.0". I think it can take it, just don't hold WOT for minutes on end.

 

Oh I'm game for the 70mm. I just need to figure out how I'm going to deliver enough fuel given my 650's are maxed. I REALLY don't want to go prospeed. As you and I discussed, we could make spacers for 8 more injectors and then a custom billet fuel rail delivering 8 injectors per bank... run the 650's in their stock location and the green 535's in the new spacer location... wiring in with factory wiring by purchasing another OE harness and splicing in.

Seems like a lot of time (and maybe money) to avoid prospeed.... BUT it would be sweet.

 

@Fastlane47 would probably be game too if we can't get his 1000cc injectors to play nice.

@Mdl you curious about a dual injector setup?

 

Gotta add the pics here!

 

Looks like it how it should have been! It's a clean install!

 

Haha! That's a good one. I haven't looked but wasn't that company? making a runner for the intake? Keep cost down...

 

let me know!

I spoke to DW yesterday and while they don't offer 1000's now, it's not off the table entirely. The sales rep likely doesn't know the whole company direction and what's on their roadmap (obviously) but I'm still holding out hope that they will offer 1000's. Maybe a group buy would be incentive? Get 10-20 people on board? Not sure how many of us there are that would be interested but count me in... assume around $1k given market and their 650's are $619.


1- carn_dogg
2- mdl (maybe)

 

I looked at Anderson engineering solutions and it had the 3ur runner kits out of stock and coming soon still... not that I'm really interested we interested but.
@carn_dogg I'd float the idea. I'm at 80% at 5900rpm. Will know today, maybe as its wet out, after I test.

 

Is that on 650's?
interesting. I'm at 100% around 5800...with boost ref. starts to lean out around there and hits 12.3-12.5 afr. I'd love 70% DC at redline without leaning at all haha

roger that. I'll put you down as a solid maybe. let me know! would be great to be able to say we have 10 people or so interested in the 1000cc injectors.

 

I'm on Five-O 750's. At 6000rpm I'm pushing about 65psi on the fuel side boost referenced. It'll be mid 10afr to 9.9 but mostly mid 10's. We'll see with the 2.0 pulley. I may have to get the turbokits maf as I'm at 4.99volts at 6300rpm and mid 4's around 5k rpm.

 

These guys stopped responding to my emails, so not sure they are ever coming out...last they told me, in January, is they lost the CNC program for the 3ur spacer and were having to redo it from scratch.

 

Shame. Was just going to reach out. Really curious on the boost to NA set ups too.

 

Toby, does this throttle body provide any improvement for us peasants with 2.3" pulley?

 

@armyoffoo @Mdl @reywcms would be better to answer that question. But my understanding is yes, boost would increase due to the intake side flowing more since the stock/RCF throttle bodies are considerably smaller.