1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I can open it but I’m a little nervous to do so since it’s the only way for the truck to turn on and start.

 

I figured I did read that some tundras came with but they were dealer installed. I definitely don’t want to touch it and end up messing it up.

 

Uhhh. Launched the mr2 a little too hard…. Ripped the motor mount bolts out of the transmission. Oops

 

Well then you should trace where those wires originate or at least measure the voltage on them before and after you start the truck up to get a better idea. You can use those wire piercing probes to check the wire with a multimeter.

$9 Wire Piercing Probe, Insulation Piercing Clip Tool for Multimeter Voltage Voltmeter Thermometer Testing(2 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/Piercing-Ins...02&sprefix=wire+piercing+probes,aps,96&sr=8-3

 

How much HP/Torque did you boost that little engine to put out?

 

Late to the party, this is all that was left after about 6 people attacked it. I decided to roll Cuban style with crispy mojo pork, yellow rice.

 

Possession is 9/10th of the law right?

 

320 wheel and 272 ft lbs

its back and ready to rock again... now with timesert for thread repairs..

 

Interesting. As a member of GasBuddy, they’re giving me a $50 gift in THC gummy bears as one of their options.

 

Wow! Anything else you need to beef up? Those CV axles can take that kind of power?

 

the CVs are fine. the mount issue seems to be becuse the bolt had rattled itself loose then the lower bolt snapped. red loctite and longer than stock bolts now installed.



the e153 is known to handle 800-900hp unopened. including its stock axles.

 

Well hot damn, color me sad. The big gripe I expressed to one of the Toytec folks in PM here on the forum was, "Man, the only thing that's got me waffling on the Aluma Boss is the all-red, canb I get those with black springs?"

The reply went unanswered, conversation ended at that point. I went back and forth on other options and eventually pulled the trigger when I could get the price down to $800/pr. on special. That was 18 months ago. Get this in my email this morning. 650lb spring rate, which I'd have rather had, and the exact color combo I was looking for. Meh.

EDIT: Don't you worry, 1st gen driver, they don't even make these for our trucks anyway. I checked the website and I'm getting nothing when I plug in 2006 Tundra, so ... Double meh.

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Same. So cringe

 

I think you definitely deserve some eggs. A bi monthly payment of 1 dozen eggs. Strike up negotiations with your neighbor.

 

So you could try taking it to a car audio shop. See if they can remove the system for you.

 

Maaaaan, I was about to offer to buy yours if you bought new ones.

 

Uhh.

 

So. FWIW, I didn't want to share. But. There's something to be said for those of us that usually do okay, teaching from experience that there're no exceptions to The Rules. Anyway, my LBJ's didn't fail; my OEM bolts failed. So I dunno if that was poor replacement timing maintenance, or they weren't torqued to spec. Either way, they got me. But I learned my Savage mod guy, @papasmurf, is a savant, and knew that cannibalizing seat bolt from later gens was the answer. Got me home, safe and sound!

 

Swapped for what?

 

Dod they shear off or fall out? How old were the bolts? Original or new?

 

Sheered. I don't know. It was after the truck was modded to long-travel and, as far as I could tell, the recall had been done on the LBJ's, so probably replacements.

Anyway, I posted when it happened, and again now, because-- it's a thing; gotta check and recheck. There's a lot of weight on these little ankles, OEM or not.

 

Make sure to paint a bullseye on it and leave the bow and arrow out so the neighbor can see.

 

Actual photo of me checking my LBJ's




I have the parts, I should probably get on that

 

I’ve always under-torqued mine and haven’t worried about it. The rust keeps it cemented in there such that I generally need an impact to take it out.

 

I'd actually consider it if they made 'em (new ones) for 1st gens. The "new" ones appear to also be an Elka product. Just a color variation, and "2.5" badging instead of "2.0".

There are definitely exceptions to the rule, @RUSTYNUTS has the XRF (or w/e) brand that seem to be doing him alright. I think it's just easier to preach the gospel of OEM, knowing aftermarket are typically so bad.

That said ... While preaching the gospel of OEM, I always make a point of mentioning "and fresh bolts" and throw in "proper torque to spec", because I think people gloss over that point and/or its importance.

 

whatever’s on sale

 

Looks like QUICK STEER brand is on closeout sale right now, $9.16/ea @ https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2000,tundra,4.7l+v8,1357938,suspension,ball+joint,10070 and only $14ish for the other side

Get on it, Hoss

 

Any tips or tricks for an AC bodylift?

 

https://www.daystarsuspensionparts.com/pa5563

 

Do not help people who talk who talk like this. "What ever felt good" huh..... You're a fucking idiot. I'll bet you this guy also "zerod ma gun with my bore sighter"..... Or the "it came zerod from the factory" type of hunter. You can learn so so much from people as a gunsmith, and their know it all shit attitude permeates into every aspect of their lives. Grandads never used no torque wrench on no ball joints..... This level of stupid just fucking gets me heated.