Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Yes, absolutely, there are pros and cons to each. The main point was purely that you can't base an engine limits solely on boost levels. And we are in quite a bit of uncharted territory, so time will tell and we will respond with everything we learn

 

Researching back on various tundra forums they thought about 14psi was hitting the limit for the SC gang, about 650hp. But some engines went, failed, with lower psi. Good fueling and cooling is paramount to keep ring lands happy as they already have tight tolerances.
But there are other variables too.
Raising coolant pressure the using TRD coolant cap, red llc Toyota coolant under 50% mix, rich afr's 10.1-10.5 are few suggestions to keep the engine happy. Some use water wetter and employ w/m for added longevity.

 

Confirmed. Man is not lying. As quickly as you can think "hmmm, is this the gum from garbage pal kid or baseball cards?" the flavor is gone and one is left wondering where they store that flavor from yesteryear. I wouldn't be opposed to adding a drop of that flavor into my iced coffee every once in a while.

 

Getting caught up from earlier this week.

Wiring for water meth and SCG is done and both are working. Sloppy for now, but serving the purpose. I need to get a 1 3/8" grommet for the center console hole for the AEM harness and that is completely done.

Waiting on the vent insert that @AZTundra shared to arrive and then I can work through finish install of the SCG-1.

Ended up needing to wire in the ProLink cable, so there was positive to not finish installing the SCG. So all of that is done and feeding as intended.

As I was attempting to button everything up on Wednesday for a Thursday AM firing, I ran into a snag. AEM was purged without issue. That worked out great. Oil line to the turbo was purged (this take nearly 30 seconds of cranking the engine over, so be patient and have a well charged battery). All of this was solid wins with results.

The fails.

Trying to connect the purged oil line to the turbo wasn't happening. I thought I stripped the thread somehow. Spent most of the day on Thursday trying to find a new braided line and a new connector. Finally, was able to find both, but not without confusion. Thank goodness Jesse was available and had exact sizes on the ready because it turns out I got the one oddball out of their bulk purchase of NPT to AN (or now know as JIC) fittings. The shops kept giving me -3 to match the part I had, but I kept telling them I needed -4. Sure enough, everything tightened right up with the new -4 fitting. Jesse was going through his inventory to address any other issues since they don't use -3 for anything. So, joy on that.

I also apparently lost some of the vacuum line reducers (or placed them somewhere safe where I could never forget), so I had to hack together the AEM and SCG vacuum lines with some local store bought multisized adapters. Sketchy, but working for now and Jesse is sending me replacements on Monday.

I called him before making a new cut in one of the longest runs I had because I didn't have more length to rerun (insert PTSD from the AEM nylon tubing). Turns out, I crossed wastegate and blow off valve in my head and ran the vacuum lines incorrectly. Easy fix, but I'm glad I called to ask. That's complete fine now and I think Jesse was able to generate some new, more clear diagrams of the intended vacuum circuits to add in the instructions. As they say, pictures are worth a thousand words (unless you're Army, then it's just pictures )

So, anyways, was able to get the tune loaded late Thursday (thanks, again, Jesse for staying a little late). It fired up which was a huge personal victory. Bad news, I had an oil leak where the feed meets the sending unit. So, that was my Friday morning. Been doing some crawl/walk/run on the baseline ever since. And I'm still chasing a small weep at the sending unit, so Jesse is going to send me the two connections so I can crank down and get them sealed without potentially derailing the baselining if they strip (again, lessons learned after chasing down the nylon tubing).

All in all, the truck is drivable and I'm excited to eventually get into boost. I'm happy to take this part slow and steady knowing it will pay off in the long. An ounce of prevention (or something like that). I'll let Jesse geek out over the other stuff. Again, I'm here to talk specifically about the DIY aspect of an off-the-shelf kit. The magic show in the background is his to talk about. Eventually I'll be educated enough on the HPT to contribute, but that's not today.

I also need to clearance the engine cover for the intake tube and then loom the wiring in the engine bay.

Oh! and I DO have some rubbing on the downpipe at full lock on the factory 18" TRD OR wheels with 275/70r18 Falkens. I'll get exact impact tomorrow if I remember, and the report will be in # of steering wheel turns lost. I'll probably snag some small spacers as a temp fix while I ponder a BFH vs new wheels. Sadly, the heat wrap did not survive long and is now gone on that section.

 

I know on the 5vz superchargers, meth injection was popular, since that SC didn't have any type of heat exchanger.

 

Great post and love the transparency. This is exactly why we were looking for a DIY test run to iron some of these wrinkles out, make clearer instructions and really just get a solid idea on what the end user has to do to complete the project. Thanks again for stepping up and working with us on this!

My god on that -3 fitting. We have 100 -4an fittings in stock, no IDEA how that -3an got in there and on your kit none the less! It's not even a normal size we use. Anyway, your explanation made complete sense once we found the size issue.

Got your email list of misc extras needed and those will go out Monday OVERNIGHT! Each one of these instances, allows us to update our BOM (build of materials) and packing list, so thanks for the valuable feedback!

Those brass fittings (and really any NPT) are definitely unnerving. The threads are tapered, they only thread in 1-2 turns before getting tight and needing a wrench, the fear of them cross threading and /or stripping out is real, because that's exactly what it feels like to tighten them. We'll get a fresh set up so you have it in hand before going hulk on the current fittings, LOL.

In regard to the base tune and this truck. The files are different from the 2014 we developed the kit on to the 2019 which we knew and knew this step would take some additional dialing in... But first, before addressing anything tune wise, we went over the kit and made sure mechanically, it's all straight. After checking for vacuum leaks, triple checking the wastegate connections and a solid visual inspection for exhaust leaks, etc. Everything confirmed good. Nothing mechanically should be giving us false readings. The reason this is paramount, is that if you start adjusting the tune to compensate for an unknown mechanical issue. You end up trying to hit a moving target. So this back and forth is an important step. We did find one issue with the BOV, the BOV had the lighter green spring installed out of the box instead of the stiffer yellow spring. Not a big deal, as the BOV comes with all the springs. The issue with the lighter spring, is that during light throttle inputs, the BOV can get "caught" in the middle, where there is just enough vacuum to crack it open in part throttle, and not enough throttle to get the turbo involved and slam it shut with boost. When this happens and you transition into more aggressive throttle inputs, it bleeds the charge air out of the BOV port and slows / stops it from making boost. The stiffer spring solves this, by slamming it shut more forcefully during on and off throttle changes. Now that we have a solid set of logs, with a mechanically sound install. The logs are on the way to the tuner and we'll rinse and repeat until it's 110%.

Another reason why all of this is important, the more maps we tune, the less maps we have to tune. If the next owner doing an install has one of the same files we have already tuned. Then it's more of a load and go scenario. But at first, while we build that database of tuned files. It's people like BFlooks that help us make the magic and we really appreciate the calm and collected way he is tackling it all with us.

Anyway, long day fighting with a cracked coolant line on a Twin Turbo 6 (not the new tundra, yet...). Have a great night all!

 

For anyone ever dealing with the An/JIC fittings, the issue was that the -4 line DID thread onto the -3. A little loose, but definitely grabbed and could be tightened just beyond finger tight, and then let go. You can see how just the very top of the threads did strip. If that ever happens, check the sizes. -4 to -4 is night and day and was hand tight within a few full turns. No play at all.

 

As promised, the rub on the downpipe looks to be rather minor overall and being so far away from the turbo, I'm thinking a little relief shaped into the pipe would give me what I need without having major impact on flow. I'll be waiting until everything is fully tuned and functional before any of those discussions, though.

I have lost ~1/4 turn at lock on the passenger side as a result of the downpipe.

Driver: 1.75'ish turns from center
Passenger: 1.5 turns from center

 

Maybe that won't be an issue for those with lift kits, custom offset, and/or wheel spacers. I have 1.25 inches wheel spacers and 3.0 lift kit. I am currently installing a 6 in. lift kit. Hopefully, it won't be an issue in this scenario. Let's see!

Thanks for the info!

 

From what I can tell, I'm rubbing between 9 and 10 o'clock on 2.5'ish lift. I'm thinking 3/4" spacers up front would solve it, but I'll talk to Jesse about it more. I just got the photos and it's Sunday, so I suppose he's entitled to a day off.

Just kidding! We've been emailing all day, but not about this. He's towing a car around right now.

 

I’d beat it with a hammer and call it done. Not gonna hurt anything.

 

This. Engine Masters did a test on headers and they beat the absolute shit out of them for clearance and there was negligible change on the dyno.

 

Yes, exactly, I was going to say the same thing. Those guys took a sledge hammer to headers with a motor on the engine DYNO and I thikn they actually picked up some TQ! LOL

BFlooks - there would be no issue with you taking the pipe off and using a large steel tube, heating the pipe and hammering a smooth recess into it. We saw about the same rubbing on our 2008, do not see it at all on the 2014, but it's got the wide wheels with big offset. Plus, it's parking lot speed type stuff, any sort of forward speed and you can't turn the wheel enough to touch it without flipping the truck. We'll definitely keep an eye on things as more people install and give feedback. Thanks!

Also, we just got back from a 110m towing loop. I'll post about it shortly, but it ended up WAYYYYY better than I even expected.

 

I'm glad you all referenced engine masters for this because that is precisely what I was thinking about as I typed my post.

Same with header wraps and if bougie titanium whatchamacallit was better than el cheapo whoseamicallit. I came to realize it didn't really matter per their episode on wraps.

@TurboKits.com - Happy to contribute to the documentation, but I'll save this for our intercooler day. Tune and towing metrics first. Then improvements. I'll call that part of walking.

 

Tow Results: 2014 Tundra, Stage 1 Kit, Water Meth & Tune Only, 4 PSI, 136K Miles on the Odometer

The quick details of the tow test today:
U-Haul Car Hauler & 2008 Audi A3: ~5500lbs
Total Miles: 110.1 (about 1/2 highway and 1/2 back roads)
Average MPG: 13.5
Meth Usage: Less than 1/4 Tank!!
Duration: ~3 Hours
Road Conditions: Dry
Traffic: Light

The back story. We had developed some world record ball bearing turbo upgrades for a specific application. We have been testing various updates and upgrades on them when we found that with some machining magic, we can take our fully custom ball bearing center sections and machine them to fit/work on the VR30DDTT. This is Nissan's new Twin Turbo V6, which debuted in the Q50/Q60 platform, but is also what is used in the new 400Z. Anyway, we picked up a junk yard motor and shipped it off to our machine shop to build and started looking for a Q50/Q60 with a blown motor to test our theory. Had a line on one for today (my buddy owns the local U-Haul, so I usually just grab a trailer from him). Had the trailer booked, a babysitter for my 6yo (he was going with Grandma to Kids Play), picked up the trailer bright and early, and had the truck 100% ready, with 4 gal of meth, to head to NYC to get this car. Anyway, the deal didn't come together, since the owner of the car had it at the shop and the shop wasn't answering the phone to let us meet inside the fenced in area to get the car. Granted it's Sunday, but disappointing none the less. So here I sit, empty house, truck ready for some towing and it dawns on me. Why don't I just put any car on the trailer and go for a drive. Grabbed the 17yos A3 and off i went. The map, for any of you "gotcha" guys, is from TK HQ, but I left from my house. The truck ran flawlessly! We are in western New England, the Appalachian trail is less than an hour from us, so windy roads, with steep hills is the norm. I decided to jump on the highway first, in regular mode, but in Sport shift, I ran the highway for about 55 miles, trying to keep it between 60-70. Most of the time it was fine in 6th gear, with a few hills pumping the TC in and out for some extra revs, and maybe 1 PSI, there was one hill ~1 mile and a steep grade, that I did have to drop to 5th and get about 3 PSI to get from dropping below 60 back up to 65-70. I then hit the back roads, put it in drive and ran Tow/Haul mode for the second half of the loop (raised on manual vehicles, I much rather shift myself). Headed up western CT, right on the NY border, TONS of hills and windy roads. I often joke when people say, just get a draggy, why go to the strip. Well, there isn't a straight and flat 1/4+ section of roads for a 20 mile radius in our parts. Anyway, the back roads actually proved to put the truck through its paces more than the highway, a few ~1 mile plus hills with tight corners in the middle of them, so no choice but to hold speed, instead of accelerating through it. Again, the truck was perfect!

Our initial thoughts seemed to hold true and actually exceeded our expectations, 5500lbs isn't a light tow and the stage 1 was easily able to handle it with minimal time in boost and a very low usage of meth, which is where we exceeded our initial theory. Again, we were never worried about the kit or the truck or motor or trans, but more the inconvenience of constantly having to monitor and fill the meth tank. Which I didn't have to after almost 3 hours on the road. I stopped to use the bathroom and get something to drink before I even had to glance at the meth!

Why you may ask, did it seem to handle this with minimal boost and meth usage? The turbo, even though it isn't creating positive pressure (boost), it is still pushing more air at lower RPMs than the engine can do in its natural form. Allowing it to easily ride 6th gear at highway speed, even up decent grades without the need for a downshift other than the one long grade. We actually saw almost 15MPG average when we stopped for refreshments at the end of the highway portion. It wasn't until we hit the back roads, which we did see more boost up the hills due to them being VERY steep and windy at the same time.

Now, the dynamics for BFlooks will be different, not only will he be 2k+ more weight, but he will have the wind resistance to deal with as well, wasn't a huge issue towing a car. As soon as we have his tune nailed, he will jump right in and get us that data!

That's it for now (some pics below). Thanks for your time!

 

Stop it! I'm leaving for vacation on Wednesday and I don't want to be dreaming about holding 5th gear, even in hills.

 

13.5mpg towing that? I get 9 towing a rzr. Really need my taxes finalized so I know whether or not I can pull the trigger.

 

@TurboKits.com congrats on the towing test run. Your map reminded me of my teenage years in NE. Grew up in western MA.

 

Yeah, I was very surprised, I barely get 15 daily driving the truck, but then again, I do like the sound of the turbo! LOL

It's all in keeping the revs down and letting the turbo do the work. When I say it wasn't in boost, I mean the gauge was at 0, but the turbo was making all the right noises, pushing that extra air, keeping the revs low, just not enough to tick into positive pressure. Keep in mind, PSI is actually a waste measurement. It's a backup of air flow that the motor can't ingest from the turbo.

We'll be ready when you are

Oh no way, so you completely understand the roads up here!! Ha Ha and I just realized I said the eastern part of CT, not the western... It was a long day...

 

Eastern CT should not be on anyone's list of a good time for a test drive. Traffic/people

 

Hey, I'm the "people" here! LOL Just kidding, yeah, Rt 84 east of Waterbury is just one long hill after another and bad drivers, tons of trucks and then Danbury... It a crappy drive in a sports car, let alone with a car in tow.

 

So many people, so much traffic, all for no apparent reason.

 

And Heavan forbid, 1 person, 3 miles ahead slows down or changes lanes, then it's bumper to bumper for 15 min... LOL 84 is a horrible road through CT.

 

Quick update, looks like the deal is back on for the project car, tentatively for Thursday. This car is larger and heavier, at almost 4K, plus the trailer will put me over 6K this time. Have to go into NYC, so more flat roads on 95, but uphill for most of Rt 8 to the shop and a LOT of traffic. I'll report back later this week

 

Blackstone sample is on its way. Just got picked up. So, baseline of 49,400 mile engine with Mobil1 0w20 at a 4400 OCI will be had. I'll get another sample at 3000 OCI with Mobil1 0w30 post turbocharger and another after their recommendation and some heavy towing this summer. It'll be interesting to see what, if any, impacts will be seen. Hope is to get back to 5k OCIs, but obviously will do whatever is required.

 

Finally got the clear to get into light boost earlier today running the light spring and it def sounds the part, that's for sure. I'm not upset.

I'll get videos at some point when I have a passenger.

Purpose of this post? Progress.

 

Thanks for the updates, I know you've been prepping for a family trip over the last few days, so there won't be much, if any updates for a bit. Thanks for getting us the logs in your small window of time this AM... Anyway, enjoy your time off and we'll talk when you get back!

 

Jesse have you done anything with the new Tundra and turbos? I know you said you had a set picked out just curious if you have tried anything?