Turbo Charging A Tundra!

I believe we posted this before, but it does not hang down any lower than the lowest part of the truck, ie front suspension, control arms, etc, rear "pumpkin". The 2021 had about 8" if clearance and the lowest part of the downpipe was still at 8". The rest of the piping and sits up as tight as possible. See pics.

In regards to the CAT shields. Kens 2021 had them, luckily we didn't cut the opening for the downpipe, since he ended up needing the truck back and we went back to stock, but other than the downpipe loop that comes up under the frame rail, and cutting an opening for that. It looked like everything else would be covered without much hassle.

 

What is the cost for a new downpipe if/when it gets damaged?

Understanding the geometry of the Tundra is key since it is a pig. The breakover angle is not forgiving and scraping the bottom as you play in the rocks are common

 

We do not have the kit pieces priced individually yet. If something like that were to happen to a customer. We would absolutely work with them, get the pipe back and fix it would most likely be the most cost effective. I would suspect the downpipe to be in the $200-$300 range as a stand alone purchase.

 

Seems like a business opportunity to build a downpipe cage/skid. I'll settle for 20% royalties. Thanks for listening.

 

I did not think there would be that big of an obstacle. But with anything I reckon it could get a dent or something??
Thinking that if it is that big of a worry, a piece could cut out then turn it inside out and weld it back on? Easy Peasy!
That is an observation looking at pictures?

 

Agreed, we do hope it ends up being a non-issue for users, but we love and welcome any questions... It only serves for us to be able continuously make better products

 

I forgot how much I despise having to drop the cat protection plates. Also didn't realize just how amazing it is to be lubed up in their rust prevention.

Just ordered a bunch of Blackstone kits so I can have a before (Mobil1 0w-20 at 5k mile OCI) and after (Mobil1 0w-30) to help determine correct OCIs going forward. All intervals are considered severe duty so there will be a some consistency in the results.

I envy you all who have height for a lift.

 

Yeah buddy!!

 

Patiently waiting for someone to twin-charge as a guinea pig! If it works, I'm ready to throw money away.

 

That would be insane!

 

I owed this thread details to reset the baseline. If there is something I missed, let me know and I’ll provide what I have to support before/after data points and discussion.

Vehicle details:

• 2019 Tundra Crewmax Limited 4x4
• 49,350 miles
• Genuine Cooling Systems 15-row SETRAB trans cooler kit
• 275/70r18 Falken Wildpeak A/T3Ws
• Nitro 5.29s
• Powertrax Grip Pro
• Dirty Deeds 21" exhaust
• Air bags and RAS
• Cat protection shields (from a person no longer selling)
• ~2.5" lift all around

Vehicle usage:

• Daily Driver/Family hauler
• Tow rig

Tow duty:

• 2020 Grand Design Imagine 2800BH
• ~8000lbs
• 3k-5k miles/year
• Lots of White and Green Mountains of New England

Fuel Mileage:

• Town: 12.5-13.5mpg
• Highway: 15.5-16.5mpg
• Towing: 7.3-8.6mpg

Temps:

• Transmission Pan Unloaded: 187-190* around town / 206* highway
• Transmission Pan Towing: 200* under 50mph / 215* highway
• Coolant: 190-200* consistently

 

Update: It's been a slow go on my part, so not a lot excitement to share at this time. Biggest takeaway is that my garage is about 6" too short to make parts of this as easy as it should be, but progress is happening regardless. I suspect it is like a remodel with the infrastructure and framing taking forever before it all comes together quickly. I did get to the point where I can start installing parts. For those curious, the cross-over, while loosely mounted, does hang just a tad below the front crossmember. I am not terribly concerned about it, as it is by ~1/2" and if it doesn't come up during finish install, I'll just add a small spacer to the front of the larger cat shield to clear it.

My intention is to capture a few post installation temps with a focus on the crossover tube. I'll snag temps unwrapped without plates, unwrapped with plates, and then (if the temp increase by more than 5-10*), I'll wrap and get another number. These numbers will be captured while towing since that's what I care most about.

Photos I think you all will care about, to include front driveshaft clearance as well as original spark plugs (ordered as if looking from front of vehicle).

 

I think perhaps you didn't understand our love of photos around here. That may influence your thoughts on which photos we would care about.

We want all of them!

 

I'll add more context to them tomorrow, but it's most of the prep to make room. Boring and time consuming, but, goal was to make it last and not look hacked. The only 2 permanent modifications have been painted with grommets added and factory clips reused where possible. The tape isn't exactly my best work, but the garage is also 55* and a heat gun worked miracles. Too bad I didn't think of it until halfway through. Appears I missed photos of the heat wrapping, so I'll get that on the downpipe install.

The amount of Dawn Power Scrub, paper towels and gloves I've gone through because of this undercoating is rather alarming. I'm glad to be mostly done with that aspect. Bolting in new stuff is much cleaner.


A little reminder not to start the vehicle





Oil pan drilled for oil return - location was critical because I didn't want to clearance the pan and there was just enough space to clear it and the hose. Dry fit is key.






Not much room for tubing but figured I'd share the photos since not everyone drops their catalytic converters.






Speed sensor plug and wire relocation reusing factory clips. The hole had to be expanded by about 3/8". Painted and grommet added.









Heat tape added to all areas likely to see increased heat. I was aggressive with it since it won't be too noticeable against a silver vehicle. Also had to pivot the box about 30* using existing holes. The spacer on the back leg was just a 1.25" spacer and a longer M6x1.00x70mm bolt to accommodate. Box sits flat. Can also see the start of the taping of wiring that didn't have thick looming or might be near increased heat sources.






Instructions called for slight modification of the bottom lip of the inner fender. I found it is best to use an adjustable wrench from inside the wheel well and gentle bring it outwards. No cutting, no hammering and can be bent back if ever needed.





Progress on the heat taping after the plugs were done. Started on the box but need to figure out how I want to handle the cover (individually wrapped or wrap it all as one and deal with it when/if I need to access it). I also wrapped the "hook" in the middle completely (unlike the photo shows).

 

Oh, if anyone cares about factory FIPG:

 

Love it bflooks! Keep the data and the info coming

 

It was a trying day today but only because it was a lot of buttoning up heat protection and then redoing things I apparently failed at the first time, specifically, banding the heat wrap.

Looking forward to some good progress over the next couple of days.

Photos. I despise the heat tape. Be gentle on the judgement of that part.

 

Looks like that hair dryer gets toasty!

 

Is the heat tape part of the kit or just something you are doing for peace of mind?

 

Yes to both.

The tape is part of the kit, but not exactly to the extent I'm at.

Where they said to put 2 or 3 strips, I put 8 or 9 (e.g. inner fender). The brake lines on the firewall are a new add and just a precaution. It is an insulation wrap sealed at the joints with heat tape, but they're both reflective finishes

While this is all likely severe overkill since I have the turbo blanket as well as the wrap on the tubing, I'd rather exercise caution since it will be primarily used for towing. Ideally there won't be a noticeable increase in temps, but while I had easy access to it all, I decided to suck it up and prepare for the worst.

 

Maybe. Supposedly with the blanket, it's safe to touch. But, the product is here, I have the time, and it was all accessible, so... Best case I wasted time. Worst case I'm happy I spent the time.

 

I'm with you. No shade on the heat tape everywhere. This is a first real world driving attempt at something new. Over caution should be the standard. I honestly, would have done more and made it look worse.

 

Thank you! I know tape and chrome looking wrap everywhere may seem silly to some, but for me, right now, it's the right call. I do look forward to seeing the data points post install.

I do also wonder if there could be a better option than just tape for the majority of it, but that's not in my wheel house.

A bolt in, pre-coated heat shield containing the hot parts would be fabulous and a whole ton faster. Probably a whole ton more $$, too.

 

Doing an amazing job BFlooks!

To clarify, He and I's conversation was based on the maximum potential coverage for towing. So yes, it is probably overkill, but in reality, thermal protection and heat control are really paramount in ANY performance build on ANY vehicle. Not to mention once everything is in. It's fairly well hidden behind it all (see below). Do we feel it's necessary; there are few parts where you'd kick yourself if anything happened, especially the main harnesses. The rest really is more to please the OCD gods! LOL. On the 2008, we barely have anything, other than the main harnesses on the fire wall and we didn't spin the fuse box for more clearance either and were at 230K now, about 30K with the turbo. But imagine we released a kit and the heat started deforming plastics, bubbling paint or causing issues for the end users... We just can't allow that to happen, so yes, it's an extra step, but one that is never really a waste of resources.

 

You can always jethot coat the turbo housing, down pipe and manifold.

Would the kit be able to accommodate moving the turbo up closer to the hood? My thought is if it can go slightly higher it might allow for more flow underneath it? But if it gets too close to the underside of the hood what’s the point in sacrificing one heat issue for another.

 

The filter on 2021 in the above picture is an older filter we were testing, we ended up using a MUCH larger filter with a front open mouth to allow more fresh air through the front grill opening. So there isn't any room to move the turbo forward now. And with how the head expands for the cam gears and the fender comes in closer to the motor, there really isn't any additional room anyway.

Here is the new filter:


Yes, we have an extreme black thermal coating we have done on all of our other kits. We use a company in CT called Central CT Coating. The owner is a chemist and doesn't use off the shelf coating, but mixes his own. Been working with them since 2005 and the stuff is beautiful and works. We will eventually offer this option, but have to do one at least to get the pricing right. We are thinking we would offer Upipe, Turbine Housing and 1st Section of the Downpipe for about $400 and then Cross over pipe and second section of the downpipe would bump it to probably $600 or so.

Here is what it looks like on our other kits!

 

Just a little bit of progress today due to personal obligations that aren't this project.

Downpipes are wrapped and installed, everything's torqued down, and everything not in the engine bay is connected and done AEM injection kit excluded). I opted to wrap the "external side" of the downpipe as well since I had extra wrap and because it is a close fit. Figured it was cheap insurance for just the part outside of the frame that is non-traditional routing for an exhaust. I'll get more/better photos tomorrow. I know there is question about the downpipe and I'll take photos of it with a tape measure similar to the other shots.

 

Great picture from that side under the truck. It clearly shows it's well above the lower control arm and just about flush with the cross member!!

 

@TurboKits.com the fancy MAF you use to keep the voltage within range, is that something available outside of your kit? Or is that a modification you did to a stock MAF that anyone can do?