No fuel to the engine when it cranks over

Hey, all. Newbie here. Bought my '06 Tundra in '06 & it's been the best vehicle I've ever had. At 74 you, it's a long list. This is the 1st real mechanical problem I've had in 180,407 miles. She's cranking over but I'm not getting fuel to the engine. Thought it was time to rejuv the ol'pony so I changed out the fuel pump fuse & rely. But still not pumping fuel. What's next.....ckp sensor? I'm an ol' sideliner beekeeper & I've got to get back to my Bee yards. Looking banner year so so I'll send whoever helps a jar of the best honey in Tennessee.

 

Check the fuel pump wiring for power?

Check the crank sensor? Maybe it doesnt know its turning over.

 

Tell me your a beekeeper! Checked fuel pump for damage & it checks out fine. Thinking the crank sensor is next.

 

Not yet, but its in the plans. Got a yard full of flowers & hummingbird feeders helping the local wild bees, though.

 

Test for power at the fuel relay socket. Are you getting power there? If not, the ECU can't trigger the relay to feed power; diagnose why no power. You check all fuses under the hood and in dash?

Hopefully you installed a Denso pump with the replacement. It's such a bitch to change out, I wouldn't trust any parts store brand garbage.

 

Yes indeed.

 

Totally off subject, but since your posts are so uncommon, i’m going to reply with this...
My parents used to be bee keepers as well. I remember sitting in the pickup truck while they would do their work. Bees would be flying around everywhere and my sister and i pretty much paid them no mind.

Oregon DMV just released a new plate design. “Pollinator Paradise”. My buddy (who is also an amateur bee keeper) got on the wait list for the plates and had custom ones made that read: “BZ Knees”. Yup, so plates ARE the Bees Knees.

I don’t have a pic of his plates specifically, but here’s a stock photo of the plate.

 

That's awesome! You having set inthe truck whileyour parents worked the bees makes me think you can understand my subtle SOS. We work on the bees schedule......not ours. Been a mentor for years & when, after I give that quote & get a "I maybe an take are of fhat next week"...I say you have 4 days & walk away. I need my pony. Oh.....here around nashvagus tn.. we have a drink called the bees knees.

 

Anything done before the fuel quit working? Was the inside of the tank clean? Had the truck sat for a while? Battery good & strong? I dont think the fuel pump comes on until the engine is spinning.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-...WjA/view?resourcekey=0-lv7xW9_5TKqpbWKbBzVP0Q

that might help when measuring signal or sensors.

 

FP primary circuit PDF attached below.

IIRC, fuel pump is OFF with the key in any position except "START" position. With key fully forward in START position, fuel pump is turned on to start the truck, if power is available at the FP relay socket of course, else ECU triggering the relay would do nothing (thus relay must be working, ECU must be working, relay socket must have power on correct leg).

Once the ECU gets feedback from the crank position sensor that the engine is running, fuel pump will continue running. That means crankshaft position sensor must be working, and harness must be intact, which isn't always the case because - as we've seen on here - it gets misrouted while doing the timing belt/water pump, resulting in the harness getting nicked or severed by belt.

@Redhawk may want to save a copy of THIS and flip to section "DI-266" and start the diagnostic process. I mean, if it were me, knowing rodents are such a problem on these trucks, I would start by getting a mirror and tracing the wire harness from the top of the fuel tank back to the cab to look for evidence of chewing, and looking for evidence of wire pinch, broken connectors, etc. I'd also be jiggling the crankshaft position sensor to make sure it's intact and not physically broken, inspecting its harness, ensuring it's tucked away. Then I'd be checking fuses. Once fuses are validated, I'd be checking the fuel pump relay socket to make sure the appropriate leg has power with key in ON position.

I realize there are more thorough instructions in the document linked on the word "THIS" above, but one thing Toyota didn't include in the document was how common rodent damage is in these vehicles, especially on top of the fuel tank and under the manifold.

Fortunately the 2005-2006 don't have a fuel filter, so interruption of flow won't be the issue.

Whatever you do OP, don't just throw parts at this issue. And if you do, don't throw store brand parts. The starter and the fuel pump are the two big parts we see people come in with, "But I just replaced this with XYZ store brand 18 months ago!", and they throw a bunch of parts at it only to find ... the shitty store brand pump or starter died on them, less than 2 years after spending 2-4 hours painstakingly installing it. Store brand parts are garbage these days. It's why they offer lifetime warranties on everything these days: If they didn't, nobody would buy them, because the avg lifespan is 2-4yrs on those parts. It's why I mention Denso brand above, Denso was the OEM, and as long as you don't buy from a source that's known for knockoffs (i.e. avoid scAmazon & fleaBay), you're usually golden for another 15-20 years.

EDIT: Just realized Beebo posted same link. Ooops.

 

Was out of pocket this past week. Thanks for the manual, Shifty. I already had the tank out & the wiring was good there but I'm going to track the rest of the wiring done. I did test the relays & found 1 dead EFi relay & replaced it but it didn't help.