What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It's really a super freaking easy update, as long as you pop off the door cards so you can remove the hinge assembly.

 

So metal ones are good just make sure to fully remove the whole latch assembly and do it on the bench to reduce the chance of breaking then?

 

Yup. I took a short scrap piece of 2x4 and drilled a 1/2 hole in it as a receiver. Then used punches to tap the pin into the hole on the soft wood, keeping your eye on the position of the piece you're tapping out (i recommend tapping out one side, install one side of the replacement, then tap out the other and repeat. If you don't have a punch assortment, a 10 penny nail with the tip ground off should suffice. Hell, I can't remember if I tossed mine, but if I can find them and you want them, they're yours. I'll cover the ride if they're going to you, specifically.

When I ordered replacement OEM assemblies, they arrived in beige b/c that's apparently the only color you can get, any color you order is beige now. So I had to punch pins out AGAIN to swap my charcoal covers onto the new OEM assemblies... Such tedious shit.

 

I just ziptied mine shut haha

 

https://optoffroad.com/collections/...connect-sway-bar-links?variant=43967551668482

Found these and thought they looked interesting. I didnt know anyone made sway bar quick disconnects for FGTs!

Also found a guy with these bumpstops on instagram and thought they looked interesting as well! Might give em a try

https://www.perryparts.com/

 

Replaced the 3 AC panel T10 Chinesium bulbs with......different Chinesium bulbs because I will never learn. Do y'all have a part number for the plastic bulb holder? My middle one is almost kaput and wiggles in the socket. Thanks.

 

Does the bottom half just flop around when disco'd?

What stops the swaybar from spinning around and potentially getting jammed up where you don't want it?

I've genuinely never been able to fathom how you can QR swaybar links and not potentially create more problems.

 

Oh and I'll save others the pain of navigating that Perry website. Apparently it doesn't like Chrome on Win10 very much. Here's 1GT products: https://www.perryparts.com/tundra-1st-gen

 

Yea that is definitely something i wondered about as well. I dont have a sway bar on the front anymore so not something im in the market for, but just wanted to share.

 

Fixed my broken wheel stud today. Got the stud fixed and broke the lugnut setting the stud into place . Then spent an hour trying to find a thin 6 point blah lugnut for my scs wheels. Super nice dude at a custom wheel shop got me an almost identical, but 7 point lug but threw in the wrench adapter all for $10. Threw him a $20 and called it done.

in other news, the rear brakes look good!

 

Pretty sure you can buy em at superbrightleds.com

 

I would have sprayed a whole can of Brakleen on that and relubed the contact points. But I'm a freak sometimes.

 

I was doing a “roadside repair” I only had the jack for the spare tire, a tiny hammer and a few sockets. Believe me I would have like to clean all that crap out of there

 

Road is the best place to do it - less stains on your driveway

 

Ordered. Thanks. I'll update if they fit correctly.

 

quoted you in the other thread that you linked haha oops

 

"the" deer? I mean there's been like 5 or 6 deer between you & pops & sequoia & Tundrii....
"the deer"

 

The replacement window seals for my topper finally came in from ARE. It's a completely different design and I was worried at first but the window seems to seal a lot better now. I can tell a difference when I close it. Especially the non broken window.

The previous design tucked into this channel all the way around. This rides on top. I'll report back if it still leaks. Total cost for 25' was $100. Which sucks but sleeping in water sucks more. I have 4' left over. I'm guessing similar products can be found online for less. The part # is ARE-19019




Side by side comparison. Old on left.

 

I called them this morning and that relayvwill not work on DRL equip Trucks weather or not theyve been deactivated.

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C4bvvyZv_xr/?igsh=Zm5raG5kaXFoaXd4

 

2002 toyota tundra for sale by owner - Orange, CA - craigslist

Looks like prices might be starting to come down here in california. This is a clean FGT!

 

Trans is out. Rear main replaced. Truth is, I don’t believe now that it was leaking. Yeah yeah, somewhere shifty posted that the rear main rarely leaks, but I was certain that it had been leaking for years. Of course, it was old and now it’s new. But I’m now convinced that the back side of the valve covers were leaking this whole time.

 

Oh you dirty tease you.....

 

New oil leak unlocked, I just did the value cover gaskets about 16k miles ago. This is on the passenger side rear, Any help were I should be looking

 

Is that power steering fluid?

 

The reservoir is full at the moment, pretty sure it’s engine oil.

 

Check the hose connections at the PS reservoir for giggles

 

I'm always amazed at the things you guys pick up in the background of pictures. Things I never notice.

 

Look at your existing relay. They told me the same. They were wrong. Read on brother: https://www.tundras.com/threads/smart-relay-for-access-cab-regular-cab-trucks-with-drl.74207/

Starts to get saucy around reply 17 or 18 or something.

 

Glad you got it sorted either way. I'm not one to be a dick and say stupid shit like "ITYS", I'm just glad you've got a clearer pic. I agree it's probably your VC, maybe half moon plugs or something. Just reminds me, I should probably check mine after doing my gaskets.

I suspect this is the case for the last few people who claimed RMS was the source.